Degustation

burgundy’s young winemaking talents 2019

By billn on October 30, 2019 #annual laurels#degustation

Last week I was involved in the tastings that will determine the 2019 Young Talents from all regions of Burgundy. This (document below) is the result of the first tasting which delivers the 3 top producers in each territory. There will be further taste-off to decide which of the 3 nominees in each geographical area gets the final prize.

week 1 – 2018 (mainly) white burgundy

By billn on October 13, 2019 #degustation#reports

A good start to tasting 2018 whites for my October Report this week – above, belatedly, the mugshots of the unfortunates who hosted me. I’ve just 3 days of visits next week, but another dozen great producers will ensue…

juiciest wine of the last week?

By billn on October 03, 2019 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2019

Easy – that was Mee Godard’s 2017 Morgon Côte du Py – it was deelish!
Unfortunately, she didn’t have any left at the domaine to sell – her dog didn’t seem to care though…

a few 2017s from michel noellat

By billn on October 02, 2019 #degustation

My end of last week meeting with Marko de Morey de la Vosne brought the chance to taste a three (excellent) recently opened bottles – here you go:

2017 Michel Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
Medium-plus colour. Ripe, but this is still a nose of fine-berried precision – lots of depth to the aroma. Hmm, that’s wide, sweetly fruited and showing only a modest tannin in the mouth – long with faint bitters in the finish, but also a wine that shows a nice plump but not fat texture. Admirably long and decadently super – if you must drink one of these now, this is the one!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Michel Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux Monts
Perhaps a faint shade less colour than the Suchots. Aromas that are a little more airy and high-toned – precise berries again but with a different shape to the Suchots. Narrower in the mouth – the Suchots is a wide wine, this a wine that’s narrower but showing more drive and direction – a wine that’s got somewhere to go! Less weight of flavour in the finish but no less long, here with a perceptible oak in the finish – though faint. The Suchots catches the eye more today but in 8-10 years I think the gap will be much narrower. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Michel Noellat, Clos de Vougeot
Medium-plus colour. Not a big nose but one of purity and depth – very inviting – the precision of berries of the last with a little extra aromatic transparency. Ooh – that’s sleek with driving flavour – and the flavour is vibrant in the certainly more structured mid-palate. Ooh, this will be lovely but it’s quite the baby wine today. Long, long, finishing. Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

just another wine – or two!

By billn on September 27, 2019 #degustation

2014 Jean-Claude Bessin, Chablis Valmur
A small but perfectly formed nose – a wine that is clearly far from open – except that it opens wide and with such persistence in the middle and finishing flavours. Pure, crystaline, only modestly complex today but pure, pure, pure – what a beautiful, if seemingly delicate thing today – practically ephemeral – so good!
Rebuy – Yes!

1993 Bonnefond, Ruchottes-Chambertin
A wine that’s been in my possesion for a long time – bought at Berry Bros & Rudd many years ago – I saved it for one of my end-of-vintage encounters with Marko de Morey – and this year I remembered!
In my evening lighting, this is a wine with plenty of colour – and not obviously aged colour at that. The nose is far from massive but what a nose – complex, growing, precise – pure yet with modest earth and dried leaves – it’s a real sniffer’s wine! Beautiful over the palate – so transparent though with a faint extra bump of tannin in the incredibly long finishing flavour.So elegant, so complex – practically timeless – I probably wouldn’t have guessed a 1990s wine despite the aromatic complexity. Really quite something – a wine that dances over the palate and stays long, long, long – bravo! Plenty of tannin solids drop into the glass with the final pour.
Rebuy – Yes!

a couple of midweek wines…

By billn on September 26, 2019 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2019

Cabotte - Beaune Clos des Ursules
Inside the restored cabotte of Beaune Clos des Ursules

Plus a couple of pics from a nice evening run from Beaune to Bligny-lès-Beaune to Pommard and back through the vines to Beaune, catching the last rays of the sun!

1999 Gilles Remoriquet, Vosne-Romanée 1er Au Dessus des Malconsorts
Typical – but we all know this feeling! I’ve only 2 or 3 more from this case of 12 and this was easily the best of all!
Typical 1999, but aromatically and from a flavour perspective – yes there’s depth, but this is a wine of line and of energy, rather than a spreading width of texture. Really, clean as a whistle, vibrant and with a fine complexity. My better half prefers young wine, but she took a second glass of this!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 JJ Confuron, Côte de Nuits Villages Au Leurey
Plenty of depth to the colour for this 2017. The nose is deep and attractively fresh fruited – almost to the point of suggesting a little CO2 – but the palate shows no carbonated grain. In the mouth – woosh – deep, lots of energy and just a little plushness to the texture – delicious ripe but fresh young fruit – I don’t mind if I do take a second glass – again! Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

week 38 2019 – weekend wines…

By billn on September 24, 2019 #degustation

Ponsot - Julien Brocard

Okay, the black and white ones were Friday night, but that’s practically the weekend!

2016 Chablisienne, Chablis Grenouilles
Honestly, I never used to understand why La Chablisienne would serve this cru last when I was tasting their range – I never thought it as good as the other grand crus – until this 2016 vintage – the 2017 is also great. This wine reinforced my memory, with its silky, concentrated, damn near seamless delivery of great flavour – like a slightly less flamboyant (maybe due to less wood) but still great Corton-Charlemagne. Everyone loved this!
Rebuy – Yes

1995 Dujac, Morey St.Denis
I think the last one of the 6-pack that I bought 20 years ago! The cork came out slowly – without breaking – just! It was an unpleasntly smelly cork, so I didn’t have a lot of hope for the wine – happily I was proved oh-so wrong! Yes there was a little herb on the nose, but only as part of a wonderful complexity of aroma; sous-bous, dried leaves and spice, stems, some sweetness – oh that was so good! The palate has the merest anecdote of the tannins of 1995 – but very mild. Incredibly long for a village wine – we all contemplated this wine for a long time before talking about it. Great villages!
Rebuy – Yes

2018 ‘Les Bertrands,’ Fleurie Coup d’Folie
Hmm – for a low/no sulfur wine this has excellent aromatic purity and such a welcoming fruit. The palate has a cushioned depth of rich, layered flavour – unctuous and rewarding wine – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

Back home from the harvest, I decided on a little grand cru to celebrate:

2017 Julien Brocard, Chablis Les Preuses
I have only a couple of these – unfortunately – this being one of my top dozen, or-so, wines from the vintage. This showed a little less broadness of flavour vs tasting at the domaine in January, but what a wine – even at the €58 (or-so) price at the domaine/shop – frankly a bargain for such greatness. So long, full of melting flavour and holding not just my interest. Bravo wine without a doubt!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Laurent Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin
This the first vintage with the ardea ‘corks,’ and I note that the base of this seal seems completely discoloured by the wine, though a little rubbing removes the colour. The wine’s just a little cloudy. The nose starts with a suggestion of brett followed by a fine vibration of rich, dark fruit aroma – quite pure despite the ripeness. In the mouth there’s clearly more depth and cushion to the flavour extract versus the couple of other 2008s tasted during the week – the acidity is not a bit forward – this being a very drinkable if not particularly complex wine. On day two the nose is in full elastoplast mode – not nice – but if you can avoid that, it still drinks in a tasty way. A shame…
Rebuy – No

all the v’s – Verzé, Vivant & Vougeot – weekeend 36 2019

By billn on September 09, 2019 #degustation

2014 Nicolas Maillet, Mâcon Verzé – the last of my 6-pack (I think!) all have been top but this was a little deeper coloured with a cork that removed just a little too easily. The last (large) glass went into making the risotto, but the rest of the bottle was still very drinkable – the first 5 bottles were excellent!

1999 Thomas-Moillard, Romanée St.Vivant
This is a wine that has never endeared – a shame then that I bought a dozen on release – but this is the best of that case so far, only 20 years have been needed for this!
Lots of colour – colour with a certain age, but not brown. Hmm, that’s actually a modestly attractive nose, with a bloody, earthy, leafy-spiced depth – there is interest here. In the mouth, we have concentration, layers of flavour and no-longer the practically overwhelming sense of tannin that this wine showed in its rustically cabernet-style youth. It’s long too – but it’s not inviting, nor satisfying – maybe another 10 years for the remaining 6 or 7 bottles?
Rebuy – No

2001 Dr Georges Mugneret, Clos de Vougeot
In almost every direction, this wine is smaller versus the Thomas-Moillard; less impact – both aroma and flavour – less concentration, a smaller finish too – but in one rather important area, this has something extra – deliciousness. I don’t find many down-right poor wines in 2001, but the gaps between the modest and great are large in 2001 – here is quite a modest wine versus label/domaine expectations, but it’s an elegant and delicious middle-weight wine, rather than a grand cru wine. All the same, here is plenty of leafy maturity, some sweetness and a nice drive to the acidity. Very tasty.
Rebuy – Maybe

a couple of weekend wines from weekend 35 2019

By billn on September 04, 2019 #degustation

Nicolas Potel and Robert Perroud

2017 Robert Perroud, Beaujolais Villages Blanc ‘Terres Blanches’
A big nose – one of impact and a little exoticism – passion-fruit! Full, viscous but flavour-packed too. A wine that comes to me over time in the glass as the ripe, exotic fruit starts to fade and you have a more mineral development. Very drinkable – and for Beaujolais Blanc, that’s high praise from me!
Rebuy – Maybe

1999 Nicolas Potel, Nuits St.Georges
The last of my 6-pack, bought on release. Every previous bottle of this was outstanding – great Nuits villages – this left me wanting – I think that the cork was to blame.
The cork came out rather easily with hardly a ‘pop’ – it was wet and smelled a little oxidative – but not the wine, in fact aromatically, it showed nothing! There was some slow improvement over time – it became a wine of direction, concentration and good texture – but lacked both aromatic and flavour intensity. I’m sure some sub-detectable taint here – never the best way to remember a case…

Burgundy Report

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