touring the côtes last week…

By billn on July 26, 2021 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2021

weekend wines week 28 2021

I suppose I should start with the weekend wines (week 28, 2021)

2019 La Grosse Pierre/Pauline Passot, Chiroubles Claudius
Average of about 80-year-old vines. I’m so glad to have bought a 6-pack of this.
A perfumed and energetic nose – suggesting crunchy fruit and minerality. Depth of flavour, nicely textured and with a wonderful mineral bite. A seriously great wine of energy and flavour dimension – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

1991 Unknow Négoce, Clos St.Denis
Over the last years I’ve seen exactly the same packaging (capsule, short cork, label-font etcetera) on a number of auction bottles in Switzerland. My experience is that they are of modest quality at best, often not a lot better than Bourgogne standard – even the grand crus – some of them I’ve simply used for cooking. This particular bottle is a little better than average – I even chose to take a second glass on both the first and second evenings I tried it. Not bad…
Rebuy – No

2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Ruchottes
A nice long cork – 54mm and untreated it seems. For this bottle it’s done its job – most of my 2010s are dead but this is very much alive.
Alive, though a little tight: The nose is narrow but deep – flinty-mineral in style but almost absent of fruit. In the mouth it’s broad and complex – very mineral, not fully delicious, but impressively complex. The finish is very long. I assume a tight phase – it was certainly more delicious when younger but this particular bottle has held up well.
Rebuy – No

Just a few places from last week:

2007 L&A Lignier Gevrey Les Seuvrées

By billn on July 14, 2021 #degustation

2007 L&A Lignier Gevrey Les Seuvrées

2007 L&A Lignier, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées
This colour starting to add a little browner cast to the rim. The nose starts with a little white mushroom which fades to show that slightly sauvage Gevrey feeling, still with some faint barrel cream showing through – there’s a lot to find in here – eventually a balsamic/red-cherry fruit – lovely. Compared to more recent vintages there’s an off-ripe leading edge to the generous fruit and, here, is a more overt slug of creaminess from the oak. The finish is narrow but has fine length – minerally accented. The mid-palate oak is a little excessive for me but otherwise, this is a wine where I’m finding a lot to like.
Rebuy – Maybe

zooming some J Moreau Chablis today

By billn on July 08, 2021 #degustation

Lucie Depuydt Chablis J MoreauTasted today with a virtual connection to the winemaker of J.Moreau & Fils, Lucie Depuydt.

J.Moreau are one of the most export-oriented labels of the JC Boisset group of Nuits St.Georges, because of that, this label is much less well known in France than their export markets. Here was a chance to catch up with Lucie and some early-bottled 2020s and a couple of later-bottled 2019s.

This producer makes wine from 250 hectares on contracts from all around the Chablis region. Lucie says that she has a slight preference for the southern side like Chichée and Courgis but that, amongst other, Béru and La Chapelle de Vaupelteigne also bring nice aspects to the quality of their wines. “We have about 30 partner vignerons on long contracts – we really do consider each other as partners and each of those producers brings with them the histories of their parcels.

“We press the largest part of the grapes ourselves but some from Courgis and Beru, for instance, all come as must as that’s the easiest way for those suppliers… We try to keep the maximum amount of sediments during our elevage, not just because it helps against oxidation but because I also like the extra richness that the lees can bring. Our fermentations are initiated with a ‘pied de cuve’ which are of course the local yeasts. I think the extended contact with the lees and keeping the lees in suspension does is really important and it doesn’t have to be the same as the mechanical process of batonnage. The extra protection afforded by the lees coupled with the full malolactic fermentation brings very good stability to the finished wine too.

The Chablis and Petit Chablis are made in stainless steel with an elevage of 6-10 months, vintage dependent. The crus, some part can be with barrel elevage with various barrel sizes from 228 to 500-litre for 14-18 months – so relatively long. So all four wines tasted below were bottled at roughly the same time, despite there being two different vintages represented. The first two wines utilise the new version of Nomacorc and the team here are very happy with the performance, to date. It’s cork for the 1er and grand cru wines.

I also asked Lucie about this year’s 2021 vintage so far:
Well, we have perfect weather for both oïdium and mildew as, so far, it’s been a wet vintage and this weather, of course, follows on from the frost of April. We are waiting for a period of dry weather that will help rid us of the mildew, if, probably, not completely the oïdium.

The wines…

J Moreau Chablis

A few words from Lucie on these vintages too?
2019 was quite a low volume vintage so these are concentrated wines whose aromas remind me of 2009 – actually I thought them a little meagre and lacking personality early in the elevage but they have really grown into a proper Chablis personality. For a time during the 2020 vintage, because of the heat, there was some blocking of maturitis so the wines are more intermediate in the style of their maturity.

2020 Petit Chablis Les Petits Dieux
Was bottled in April – a large market is Scandinavia
Pale yellow. A nicely pure agrume nose. Wide, mouth-filling, mouth-watering with citrus style – there’s weight but also plenty of minerality that keeps the freshness. This is drinking excellently already and the finish is surprisingly long. Super…

2020 Chablis Gloire de Chablis
A May-June bottling. This the result of more than 80 parcels of vines.
Just a little more colour. The nose is rounder and concentrated but less fully open than the PC. More direct and higher-toned flavour. Great shape and juicy style – a more grapefruit style to this wine – perhaps with a faint floral/pyrazine top note. Wider finishing and just a little longer finishing. Nicely textured too. That’s a fine villages.

2019 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
‘One of my favourite 1ers with a strong personality,’ says Lucie. ‘It’s amazing that there are vines here as there is practically no soil – just rocks but these are also old vine.’ This only in bottle for 2 months.
A width of sweeter aroma, faintly oak and acacia spiced. A mix of richness and minerality – direct in style but with no lack of width. Extra finishing growth of flavour – that’s a wine that impressively grows in presence in the finish. Still keep it back a couple of years as I sense (more than really taste) the barrel. Wait 2-3 years for this impression of the elevage to fade.

2019 Chablis Les Clos
Two parcels – both mid-slope – ‘an intermediate’ soil for the cru – these vines usually harvested early as the maturity comes quickly here. This was bottled this year at the end of April.
A larger nose, plump but not fat, ripe but not too much – a melange of fruits – this is really a wine of mouth-filling volume. Comfortably textured, round – almost too easy flavoured – but the finish is a big one, a little creamy and ripe – far too easy to drink today, but I’d keep this in the cellar for some time hoping for a little extra ‘strict’ in the style.

some weekend wine, week 26 2021 – yes, already halfway through the year!

By billn on July 05, 2021 #degustation

wines, week 26 2021

2019 Château Bellevue, Morgon Côte du Py
I didn’t like the smell of the cork and for the first hour, I also didn’t like the smell of this wine – all herby and reductive – I blamed the cork thought it wasn’t ‘corked.’ Fortunately with aeration it took on another dimension – just as well, as this was one of my recommendations from the vintage, such that I bought a case myself!
The nose finally cleans up to offer a silky, almost glossy, dark fruit with a growing level of floral perfume. Open and fresh – a vibrant energy though with plenty of concentration too. The finish is brilliantly layered yet fresh – wine of uncommon purity. Now I see why I liked it so much before it was bottled.
Rebuy – Yes – and for half the price of some Bourgognes too…

2018 Gueguen, Côteaux Bourguignone, Sacy
Good but not great – unless you factor in the price – then I’d say simply excellent!
The nose is airy and saline with a decent punch. The palate likewise – a very saline wine but in a positive way – blended with a grapefruit fruit – this combination is classic Sacy. Missing the cut and extra energy of the 2017 version but the saline grapefruit style is classic and still a great buy at the price.
Rebuy – Maybe

2005 Marchand-Grillot, Gevery-Chambertin 1er Les Perrières
Here the nose still has traces, reminiscences, of the creamy oak of its youth – but now it has faded into an impressive complexity – faintly with a leafy maturity, blood and earth – this is a proper Gevery-Chambertin! Concentrated, beautifully textured and like the nose showcasing a purity of fruit that’s framed with more earthy and still faintly creamy flavours. The last glass on day 2 had a trace of brett but I noticed none on day one – so don’t hesitate to drink this up on the day you open it – it’s really more than excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

Then a short pause to open something new:

weeken 26 wines (agian)

2013 Françous Gaunoux, Meursault 1er Goutte d’Or
I am a very big fan of 2013 whites right now and here is a perfect example of that…
Whilst not overtly ginger-spiced, there’s a very fine and inviting – citrus-tinged – invitation to drink here. In the mouth we have an open, almost airy wine with lovely acidity – it reminds me of a 2010 in its open, accessible style with fine flavour clarity. It’s a simple measure of the quality – but this bottle emptied so quickly! One of the nicest whites this year!
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Mugneret-Gibourg, Bourgogne
Unlike the rather white (bleached?) corks of the Marchand-Grillot and the Gaunoux, here is a darker, seemingly less treated cork.
Untreated, but is it corked? My first sniff might suggest ‘lightly corked’ or ‘liégeux’ but thereafter I can’t smell it – only the suspiciously herby accent to the aromas. In the mouth, yes it’s corked but on a very low level. The texture and flavours are still rather good for the label – and I would say the wine is completely ‘ready’ – but once you taste the cork, you can’t lose it…
Rebuy – No – at least, not in the case of this corked bottle…

some weekend wine, week 25 2021

By billn on June 30, 2021 #degustation

week 25 2021 - weekend wines

Note to self – must slow down with the Trapets – a case of 6 2016 Riesling Beblenheim purchased last week – already two bottles waiting for recycling!

2005 Lejeune, Bourgogne
A case of these bought on release – I was stimulated to buy due to their unusual 50cl size. Concentration was never an issue here but they took their time to open up – I’d say that they are absolutely ready now – and delicious too – luckily a bit more than half of the (12!) case remains…
Ooh – now that’s a nose! Concentrated, faintly with a small sous-bois, some suggestions of well-matured whole-cluster vinification and, overall, a really great, nicely maturing invitation to drink. There’s now an energy and clarity to these flavours that was hidden in the first years when released. Mouth-filling, concentrated, nicely textured and with a finish that expands and deepens in a way that’s typically incompatible with a Bourgogne label – the excellence of the vintage gave me the confidence to buy – and that confidence has been rewarded – such great wine for the label – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

Plus a couple from the previous week(end) that I didn’t yet get around to posting:

weekend 24 2021 the wines

2014 Verret, Chablis 1er Beauroy l’Ame du Domaine
Hmm, now that’s a proper Chablis nose – iodine and salty-seashore minerality – with a twist of citrus! The flavour comes in fresh, delicious waves – that a relatively little-known maker of Chablis (in Saint-Bris) has such a super wine here simply emphasises that I didn’t buy enough Chablis from 2014 – silly me. Super wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Perrot-Minot, Chapelle-Chambertin
The aromas here starting deep, concentrated – pure – though a little tight. Beautifully shape in the mouth – but rather tight to start – like the nose. With aeration there is more depth and width to the aromas – the fruit here is now so vivid. In the mouth, there is more width and an impression of more energy too. Such a delicious wine. Ignoring the cost of such a bottle (if you can) gorgeous drinking, even at this age.
Rebuy – Yes

Fourrier’s 2003 Gevrey 1er Clos St.Jacques…

By billn on June 21, 2021 #degustation

Fourrier's 2003 Gevrey 1er Clos St.Jacques

Nostalgia alert: Ah, remember when these little puppies could be had for under £300 – no, not per bottle – per dozen! It seems it’s 3 years since I last popped one of these, so…

2003 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
The cork slides out a little more easily than I would prefer but it’s in-tact and the wine is fine.
Many 2003s have been in a kind of stasis, a plateau, of pre-maturity for nearly 10 years now but this wine is finally starting to show a little development; the colour is not one of youth and for the first time I’m getting a little age-related dried leaf plus soil and spice on the nose. That said, the dried leaves are still quite modest given the impressive weight of this ripe cherry fruit and even a floral accent with aeration – and it’s still quite a primary fruit too. For the vintage, I like the shape of this – not facile and round – here is a decent structure on which to pin the fruit. The tannins are modestly grained but ‘present’ – so not an ultra-elegant CSJ as this wine was in 2002. Overall, a mouthful of heart-warming and tasty flavour that is finally starting to show a little added, age-related, complexity – really a wine that’s far too easy to drink too!
Rebuy – Yes at the old pricing!

the 99 potel volnay vv

By billn on June 13, 2021 #degustation

1999 Nicolas Potel Volnay Vieilles-Vignes

1999 Nicolas Potel, Volnay Vieilles-Vignes
The colour is starting to show some age and is certainly not clean and bright. The nose starts with a small whiff of brett but it’s borderline and seemingly reasonably volatile – it soon disappears from the glass – what remains is a very attractive blend of creamy iron and flowers – eventually a little tobacco/leather too. Lots of mouth-filling volume and fresh energy here – this is still a structural wine but one of mouth-watering sweetness that offsets some slight tannic bitters. Open, giving, still rather young but offering clarity to its many flavours. Bravo villages and just really getting into its stride, I think. The 97 of this was well thought of, indeed I bought plenty myself, but in comparison to this wine, that 1997 was always a little stolid. This has all you could wish for, for its label…
Rebuy – Yes

3 fine bottles with less ‘fashionable’ labels

By billn on June 08, 2021 #degustation

Burgundy - Verret, Poulette, Saint Marc

2017 Verret, Côtes d’Auxerre Chardonnay Les Gaudiers
Chardonnay planted around Saint-Bris, cork sealed.
This is a a good wine of both aromatic and flavour freshness that I would automatically assume comes from ‘northern’ Burgundy. It’s not astoundingly good wine per se, but tasty and an absolute bargain for a Burgundy. There’s clarity and minerality to this flavour that makes it much more than an anonymously good chardonnay.
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Poulette, Nuits St.Georges Les Vallerots
Yes. it’s a shame, but Nuits seems so out of fashion these days…
Medium-plus colour. The nose is airy and red-fruited – it’s quite an invitation. Not a deep, concentrated, structural Nuits, this – rather a wine of red-fruited energy and completely delicious flavour – there’s a joie de vivre here that is very Beaujolais in style – a wine that is drunk at an impressive pace – except that the bottle is too soon empty. Great, easier styled, villages Nuits – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Saint Marc, Santenay Saint Jean Blanc
Whilst there’s a little oaky padding to the aromas, I have to say that this is very well done – it’s a good invitation to drink. In the mouth this has a nicely mouth-watering, almost saline minerality it’s completely delicious despite the visibility of the barrels here too. There’s more than good concentration though I’d keep this a year or two in cellar to lessen the visibility of the oak – no problem as DIAM-sealed – but this is a really super villages Santenay Blanc…
Rebuy – Yes

wines de la weekend – week 22 2021…

By billn on June 06, 2021 #degustation

weekend 22 2021 wines

Friday/Saturday wines in Beaune – something required for the Sunday evening with mushroom risotto – I’m sure I’ll think of something 🙂

2017 Jean-Claude Ramonet, Mâcon-Péronne
The last from my refrigerator in Beaune. Cork sealed
Fresh, young colour. An equally fresh and young nose – even a small agrume reduction that initially hides the more ‘southern fruit.’ The palate is no less fresh and young but here is a little richness of flavour too. A little saline, nicely lingering on a more mineral note. Fully enjoyed – a shame that they are now all gone!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Château Ravatys, Côte de Brouilly Reserve
A domaine that in some years I find a quality match for Thivin – but they are certainly less consistent…
The deep, saturated, colour of 2015 – youthful too. A blast of black fruit – blackberry but not quite blue – there’s a mineral, graphite, undertow to this nose too but nothing that’s overtly too ripe or roast. Mouth-filling, intense, perhaps more than the stated 13.5% alcohol but seemingly balanced and there’s nothing burning. The graphite minerality of the nose more pronounced in the sweet finish. If you’re interested in that kind of thing, it’s also still great for staining your tongue purple! Utterly impressive – the next 10 years seem assured for this wine and who knows thereafter…
Rebuy – Yes

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