the good, the…

By billn on June 20, 2019 #degustation

2013 Arnaud Ente, Meursault
I tasted this blind. So fresh – both aromatically and in the mouth – like a spear of flavour. I decided it must be 2014 or 2017 from this profile, but there was also a twist of the spiced sun – could it be 2015? I’d already seen the big blue wax top so had Ente in mind, so really thought that he could produce a 15 like that – no I decided to stay with 2014 because I felt that there was a bit of age to this wine. It turned out to be 2013 – so young for that, but now that little extra ripeness makes sense even if it didn’t recall apricot – simply a great 2013!
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Georges Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux Monts
Also tasted blind. A silky nose – with a bit of drive – yet also relatively compact. The last drops in the glass showing a volatile balsamic note. In the mouth, this is like the nose – drive to the flavour, relatively narrow – very good texture but no finish to write home about, not much oak showing though. My guess was 2016 – for the combination of concentration and depth of young colour – Côte de Nuits, quite well made – but probably a Bourgogne given the short finish. I was quite shocked when revealed.
Rebuy – No

Despite the hype over this domaine, I’ve not visited Maxime Cheurlin very often at Georges Noellat, despite liking both him and his dog! The main reasons are; 1) I find the wines in elevage too oaky for my palate and 2) given the very long elevage, my normal tasting time simply doesn’t suit evaluating the wines at that time – gas, oak, reduction – you name it. For those reasons I never found a lot of interest in the wines, though bottled wines tasted with him have always been lovely – but this wasn’t and it certainly didn’t warrant the tariff. I offered two different (good!) winemakers the chance to taste the wine – both thought a little volatile, one opined a Bourgogne, the other ‘possibly’ villages – both, like me, got the vintage.

monday night treats

By billn on June 18, 2019 #degustation

A quiet night out in Beaune:

2017 Jean Chartron, Bourgogne Chardonnay Clos de la Combe
A precise and perfect example of how good 2017 can be. A nose of fine and inviting limestone citrus. A palate of drive and energy – mineral but zero harshhness – salivating, mouth-watering for the next sip – the bottle was gone in short order. Simply excllent wine!
Rebuy – Yes

2014 Cécile Tremblay, Bourgogne La Croix Blanche
Plenty of colour. A wild nose – almost textured with whole-clusters and still some reduction. The palate is just the same – more rasping texture and an unswerving, never diminishing reduction – a wine that’s certainly showing some rusticity of texture today, too. This was essentially a wine that I enjoyed without ever admiring. My experience of such wines is that they will be super in 5 or 6 years but for now, perhaps, I’d look elsewhere.
Rebuy – Maybe

2000 G Roumier, Bonnes-Mares
Faintly animale, a nose with lively freshness, and a growing complexity of dried fruits – on one hand, a little tight but on the other, such an invitation to drink. Bright, pure, dynamic, vibrating with saline, complexly fruited flavour. This could be greater, but not massively – it’s still very much a baby. Great wine that you would never ‘pin’ as 2000, such is the clarity with which the flavour is delivered, but I’d wait 5 years for another – unless forced…
Rebuy – Yes

a weekend wine – week 23 2019

By billn on June 10, 2019 #degustation

L&A Lignier2008 LA Lignier, Clos de la Roche
The recent 2008 Charmes-Chambertin from here was a bit of a disappointment – perhaps not easy to produce as there was only 1 barrel – but this is simply magnificent!
Plenty of colour and what colour – it could be a 2012 or 2014 – it’s just so young looking. A vibrant nose, one that emits a radiation somewhere between raspberry and red cherry – this aroma is such a great invitation. Fresh, mouth-filling – absolutely full of energy and intensity – so long, so delicious – bravo! Power, freshness but balance too. Great wine, in a great place right now, even if it’s without any overt maturity!

audras 2009 juliénas presitige

By billn on June 07, 2019 #degustation

Audras Julienas2009 Vincent Audras, Juliénas Prestige
Lots of colour here – and younger colour than the previous 2010 from Mikulski! The nose starts really rather uninteresting which is in stark contrast to the palate which is bold, energetic and sweetly ripe-fruited. An hour is needed for the nose to open – then we see (smell!) subtle but dark fruit and a more forward graphite style of aroma. As the nose begins to open, the sweetness of the wine equally seems less jarring – with fine, mouth-watering, width and a little, very fine and ripe, grain of tannin. Not really much ageing here – a wine of freshness (altitude!) to match the ripe fruit. Excellent, still young and delicious!
Rebuy – Yes!

a 2010 mikulski

By billn on June 06, 2019 #degustation

francois mikulski

2010 François Mikulski, Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
The first nose has some dank, admittedly quite attractive dark oak notes – they hang around for 20 minutes or so before offering a nicely incisive dark-red fruit with a suggestion of cream. In the mouth, this is simply delicious: Succulent dark-cherry fruit with a fine rush of acid-led energy. The finish is long and mouth-watering with a faint but attractive lick of tannin to accent the dark fruit. Drinking fabulously right now – but no rush. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes!

a little le grappin…

By billn on June 04, 2019 #degustation

2012 Le Grappin, Beaune 1er Boucherottes
A nicely deep colour, but perfectly transparent. Just a touch of floral perfume over close to black fruit – clean and inviting aroma! Mouth-filling freshness – open and energetic with still just a lick of tannin. A super mouthful of dark-fruited clarity and energy. Really excellent wine that you can certainly enjoy now or keep another 5-10 years if that’s your wish – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines, week 22 2019

By billn on June 03, 2019 #degustation

Week 22 – pff! – that sounds like we’re already getting close to half-way through the year!
I’ll have to find a few good wines for the next days as my cold is fading to almost nothing, but for now…

We had weekend guests, so plenty of stuff was opened that has already been in these pages a few times in the last months, but new(ish) was:

2017 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Oh yes – clearly a fun Chablis from the first of the nose to the last of the finish! The nose is fresh, citrus and saline – a fine invitation. Good zip, and a flavour-energy combination that drives well into the middle and finish – really a nice line of acidity here. So Yum…
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Jean Foillard, Morgon Côte du Py
From Magnum. The colour is bright and freshly red but of only medium depth. The nose a little saline and whilst no faults, far from an invitation. The palate was simply lovely. Very comforting red fruits of sucrosity and energy – towards strawberry in fruit style. Light but very rewarding – drunk to the last drop by an appreciative crowd. Simply excellent despite the dumb nose.
Rebuy – Yes

2008 David Clark, Vosne-Romanée
Now here’s a wine that’s absolutely ‘on song‘ on all fronts today! The nose has depth and interest – another wine with a strawberry style to the fruit. Silky in the mouth with just a suggestion of fat to the texture and great energy without ever pushing too hard as some 2008s do. Delicious wine – also drunk to the very last drop.
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Thomas-Moillard, Bonnes-Mares
Deep colour. A nose that’s fresh, clean and packs a punch of deep, iron-inflected dark fruit. In the mouth this is still rather muscular – it’s a young wine – concentrated but without fat. The mid-palate intensity and length and complexity of the finish are really something to behold. You should still wait 3-5 years, but this drank well, if in a ‘no prisoners’ manner, unlike the ease of the previous two reds.
Rebuy – Yes


By billn on May 31, 2019 #degustation

The grip of my cold is loosening – I can smell and taste okay – just the odd bout of coughing now – I might even start jogging over the weekend! To ease me into the grander wines, maybe a couple of ‘easy ones?’ It turns out more complicated than that!

2017 Domaine Passeloup, Pierres Dorées Chardonnay
Slightly creamy, heavily laden with exotic fruit and core of ripe lemon fruit – it’s definitely not from Chablis! Wide, unctuous, but also rather mineral and saline. Unlike most from the region, there’s no rigour, no harshness, to this mineral side, in fact, it’s rather good. The first half is not my style of wine, the second is quite good!. Far from my usual chardonnay tipple, but I can drink a glass of this – possibly two! A slightly warmer sip seemed alcoholic – not nice – keep this cool! I’m still not quite sure what I saw in this wine the first time around…
Rebuy – No

2010 Chezeaux/Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin
Ooh, that’s rather deeply coloured for 2010. A big nose, of soil and graphite, but with forward dark-red fruit too – dare I say very Gevrey! It’s a super invitation. Concentrated and really rather silky – graphite again in the mid-to-finishing flavours. Mouth-watering in the finish too. This is top class villages – concentrated, fresh, clean and with a little panache, despite the concentration. Young but wonderful villages wine…
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines, week 21 2019

By billn on May 27, 2019 #degustation

A modest report of modest labels but a couple of beauties nonetheless – my cold pairing down the notes to a sub-minimum:

2016 Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne
Good colour. Depth of concentration, really good texture. Balanced and excellent – the quality punches well above the label.
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Domaine Faiveley, Ladoix
Ohh, here is a proper white burgundy – just faintly oaked but with poise and drive – tension even! One bottle is not enough!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Clotilde Davaenne, Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Clearly more coloured than the Ladoix. Good drive, the impression of a little caramel to the flavours. Unfortunately put into the shade by the Ladoix, which it followed. Otherwise a good wine.
Rebuy – Maybe

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