Degustation

a little beaujolais at the weekend…

By billn on September 14, 2020 #degustation

Inserting a little extra juiciness into my weekend drinking…

2017 Château Ravatys, Côte de Brouilly Mathilde Courbe
Deeply, deeply coloured. The nose has a darkness of fruit to match the colour – slightly alcoholic and a little liqueur but not quite enough to be a turn-off. In the mouth, the black fruit is just so juicy and shows great energy. This is frankly delicious with a finely persistent finish. In the end, I just wish that the nose was a little fresher. An excellent wine that’s great in parts.
Rebuy – Maybe

2018 Manoir du Carra, Fleurie Clos de la Deduits
Compared to the Ravatys, this has a much more modest depüth of colour. The nose is easy-going and quite a good invitation with classical Fleurie red fruit and flowers. The palate, likewise, is easy-going and tasty – a wine that asks nothing of you – though I’d like to be challenged a bit more. Very good and faultless in this modest style…
Rebuy – Maybe

2015 Daniel Bouland, Côte de Brouilly Mélanie
Deeply coloured. The nose is a little alcoholic but majors on a sweet, dark cherry – time (and air) fills the glass, first, with an additional floral lift and, second, modifies the cherry as much more acid-cherry in style – that’s really super. A young flavour profile, of course, but here is concentration and a classy balance. Muscular but with fine intensity and freshness. Super – and easily my favourite of this trio…
Rebuy – Yes

Pierre Damoy’s 2002 Clos Tamisot…

By billn on September 10, 2020 #degustation

2002 Damoy Clos Tamisot2002 Pierre Damoy, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Tamisot
Here is a beautiful nose; complex, spiced, faintly whole cluster, a core with a balsamic suggestion but in time a little violet aroma – aromatically that’s a very intiving impression. In the mouth, this is wide, energetic and shows a lovely acidity and simply super energy. In many vintages I find this cuvée aromatically beguiling – practically a grand cru level – but less exciting from a flavour perspective. In this vintage it is a much more balanced wine and one that may embarrass many premier crus. I’d happily start harvesting these now. Very tasty, complex and energetic wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2019 croix montjoie vézelay

By billn on September 08, 2020 #degustation

2019 Vezelay

We picked up a few of these at the domaine on Saturday:

2019 La Croix Montjoie, Vézelay ‘l’élégante
This 2019 sports an impressively long diam origine. Well done!
A young yellow-gold colour. The nose has concentration and an almost smoky whiff of clean, chalky, minerality – a great start. Nicely concise, precise citrus acidity which makes the flavour finely mouth-watering – the balanced concentration is clear to see. That chalky minerality to finish too. This is a great, young, chardonnay from an unexpected quarter – bravo – and one that you can keep and keep should you wish.
Rebuy – Yes

oh well…

By billn on September 01, 2020 #degustation#seals (not the furry kind)

Ah – the anticipation. The ritual of opening so carefully. Not to mention finding the right filter for the photos!

Previous bottles of this from Bertagna were fabulous, but: Ah – the cloudy wine. The smell of mushrooms, of beef, of cork – lots and lots of cork! The sound of wine pouring down the sink because we don’t have the chance to make beef bourguignon in the next week or so…

cantin’s 2010 irancy

By billn on August 31, 2020 #degustation

Benoit Cantin 2010 Irancy

A ‘northern Burgundy night! A few ‘house’ Chablis to start the night – because we were 4!

2010 Benoît Cantin, Irancy
‘Only the standard Irancy, but a magnum! Of-course, a cork that broke in two!
Medium colour – just! The nose has a small vibration of fruit and a herby note – rosemary – interesting and quite inviting. Nice and freshly mouth-filling, I like the energy here. Not über-concentrated, more of an airy style to this, but this is tasty, easy to appreciate wine: a magnum of not so great wine tends to hang around, but this was a bottle that emptied quite quickly for its size. A similar level to a very good Bourgogne here.
Rebuy – Yes

evangelist – moi?

By billn on August 30, 2020 #degustation

2005 DIAM

I’d hate to think of myself as an ‘evangelist’ for anything because I’m a fan of balance; as such, when it comes to sealing a bottle I’ll buy wine that has been stoppered with anything if I’m intending to drink it within 2-3 years – both colours – but if I’m cellaring whites I want DIAM. The ‘traditional’ alternative has cost me too much over the years. I’d take screwcap too, but I so rarely see them. For reds I don’t have any problem staying with cork, but here’s an interesting example of one of the earliest DIAM bottlings, but still in perfect condition after 15 years.

2005 Roger Belland, Santenay 1er La Comme
DIAM seals were commercially available since 2004, here’s an example for an early adopter, but in red. This seal was in perfect condition – wine ingress amounting to no more than 2mm – at that rate the wine will age 100 years before the seal is breached!
Plenty of colour. Fresh, intense, the last vestiges of creamy oak – this nose is now far more interesting than when the wine was young. There’s a little grain of tannin at the base of this wine but the texture is good and the concentration for the label is very impressive – that’s the vintage of course. The creamy oak on the nose overlays the fruit on the palate too – but gives this wine an extra something to its baseline and little extra gloss. The flavour widening impressively in the finish. It’s a shame that this is my last of these; what was once concentrated, oaky and lacking a little clarity is now very good – another 5 years and it could be a dry fine Santenay indeed!
Rebuy – Yes

27-August-20 – no harvesting, but there was lunch!

By billn on August 27, 2020 #degustation

lunch-remilly-renardes

Well, you have ease yourself out of such things – no(?)

2018 Françoise André, Pernand-Vergelesses Les Pins
Plenty of colour. A nose that has depth but is floral and forward too. Plenty of saline edge to the concentration, practically a little mint in the middle structure too. Young but already accessible – still, the least ready of these three wines – so I’d wait 2-3 years …
Rebuy – Yes

2013 Bouchard Père, Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly
54mm diam 10 – top!
A wide nose, of textured floral depth and faint tarte au citron – I would say not just an inviting nose but distinguished too. Silky, lithe, direct – more Chevalier than Chassagne without doubt – widening with citrus intensity. Gorgeous wine…
Rebuy Yes

2018 Françoise André, Corton-Renardes
A little test of some whole-clusters in this vintage – and here’s a lovely, fresh, floral complexity with a finely focused and pretty berry fruit. Silken texture, melting structure – far too easy to drink but that’s the new Corton vernacular. Too delicious…
Rebuy – Yes

a ‘secret’ gevrey…

By billn on August 15, 2020 #degustation

auxey & gevrey

2002 Georges Mugneret (Gibourg), Gevery-Chambertin*
I remember that from the very start that this 2002 was a wonderful wine – though this seems to be my last bottle. The 2003 fell off its pedestal rather quickly – at least my bottles – and I’ve none more to compare. The 2004 was full of pyrazines but the 2005 was great – I hope I’ve one more 2005 but my recent cellar searches have revealed nothing in this direction.
The colour is not much more than medium intensity and there’s some bricking to the colour too. The nose starts narrow but deep – invitingly deep – faint soil, graphite, spice and flowers on the nose. Instantly wide, energetic and fresh – but also with depth to this flavour – the graphite element on the nose is more to the fore in the flavours – and what a super intensity of middle and finishing flavour! This is brilliant for villages Gevrey – but of-course, even declassified, there is so much to find here. Bravo – a great wine even, particularly in the finish, even if only a modest Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin!
Rebuy – Yes (I wish!)

*2002 was the first vintage for this wine – a declassified young vine Ruchottes-Chambertin. The domaine replanted half of their 0.64-hectare Ruchottes-Chambertin parcel in 2000, the original vines had been planted in 1950 but were not very productive. So this 2002 ‘Gevrey-Chambertin’ – it was officially allowed to have the grand cru name but the domaine decided to wait for the quality – was the first cuvée made from these new vines. As the vines slowly matured, the domaine transitioned the wine from a village to a premier cru label in the 2007 vintage. From the very low yielding 2012 vintage, the young vines were blended with the old – and they have stayed that way ever since. Note that in every vintage there was a Ruchottes-Chambertin cuvée – just smaller, until 2012. This 2002 might very well be my last – and that would be a shame – it was an expensive village wine, but every one of my 6 bottles has overperformed. The 2003 and 2004 were much less successful wines, and so poor value versus the prices – those young vines more easily compromised by the difficult growing seasons – but the 2005 was as much a star as the 2002.

2017 Diconne, Auxey-Duresses Vieilles-Vignes
A new discovery for me since the 2016 vintage, not just great Auxey – they are based in Auxey – but some very fine Meursault cuvées too. Definitely worth your time and very well priced.
An airy freshness to this nose, under it’s showing a little lemon tart – meringue included. Time in the glass brings more precision, less meringue! In the mouth there’s still a little barrel sweetness, but there’s a proper and fine juicy, mineral, finish – a little structured here. Super young wine!
Rebuy Yes

griottes & ruchottes – but not what you think…

By billn on August 14, 2020 #degustation

Fred Esmonin Griottes Ramonet Ruchottes

Dinner with friends.

2018 William Fevre, Chablis
Excellent – like all my previous notes…
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Ruchottes
A great, robust, cork. One year ago my 2010s were oxidised, but this 2011 is still in great shape.
Still a younger colour. The nose is deep, fleshy and still quite obviously oaked – it really needs at least an hour before a majority of the volatile oak components to fade – slowly a little attractive green-shaded citrus comes into view. After the cut of the Chablis, this wine needs a complete reset of the palate as it’s so louche and overtly oaked. Long, very tasty, but today less fun than the Chablis that preceded it – so drink them the other way around if you must, then you will see a little more of the minerality in the fine finishing flavours here 🙂
Rebuy – Maybe

1999 Frederic Esmonin, Griottes-Chambertin
The last vintage of this ‘Maison’ wine chez Fred, also one of the rare labels where Griotte is spelt with an ‘s.’ The cork was a good one, coming out in one piece.
Last tasted about 10 years ago, this was a deliciously lush wine – today it’s much more finely proportioned – boned even – with a direction to the flavour. The nose is not full power but it’s definitely, invitingly, complex and deep, with no hint of balsamic – the top notes are a mix of cherry stone and floral perfume. Medium weight wine but far, far from medium enjoyment. The texture is velvet and still shows some textural depth tooA beauty!
Rebuy – Yes – the old price was less than £30, though that was unremarkable versus Philippe Engel’s Echézeaux which was only £25!

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