Degustation

weekend wines and pics – week 28 2019

By billn on July 16, 2019 #degustation#travels in burgundy 2019

Hmm, not really ‘grand’ wines, but plenty of delicious wines!

The first two from ‘the list’ in Beaune’s The Publican pub:

Nicolas Maillet’s 2016 – was just a great wine, and cheaper on the wine-list than the Bourgogne Blanc of Mikulski. Concentrated, layered flavour but with perfect balance – bravo.

David Croix’s 2017 – was relatively deeply coloured for the vintage. Another wine of layers but also of easy, delicious drinking.
Nathalie & Gilles Fevre’s 2016 – doesn’t have the same energy as their 2017s, but you would, all the same, directly say ‘Chablis’ if you were given this blind. So much flavour, balanced without being over-energetic. Savoured, as opposed to ‘experienced’ as you might say about the 2017s right now.

Jadot’s 2000 – now that’s a wine, and a young wine too. Forward, engrossing aroma of freshness and a graphite-style minerality. Mouth-filling, fresh, complex – it will easily go another 10 years if you wish – super, super, delicious wine – bravo!
Roty’s 2010 – You might think a bit old for ‘Grand Ordinaire’ but that’s far from the case. A purer but easier red fruit vs the Jadot – easier to drink – deliciously so – but nothing like the complexity and engrossing interest of that Jadot. Brilliant for what it is though!

Finally, some weekend views around Beaune:

this week’s libations – so far…

By billn on July 11, 2019 #degustation

Friends from NZ in the house – we did 2 vintages together in Beaune, where we head later today. A bunch of the usual suspects, often drunk in these pages – for which I won’t offer any notes, but there were a couple of others that might be of interest:

2016 Burn Cottage, Burn Cottage Vineyard
Medium colour yet also quite a bright colour. Ooh, that’s such an interesting nose, fresh, full of whole cluster references but also lovely bright flower notes – that’s so inviting! Nice volume, fresh flavour, a little acid-led structure and fine finishing bitters. Ripe yet at the same time, less ripe – very floral – and attractively phenolic. I like it a lot, though the fine floral purity of aroma all-but disappears after an hour-or-so.
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Camille Giroud, Beaune 1er Aux Cras
One of the rare 2011s that I bought and this is showing beautifully.
Relatively pale colour, not totally bright/clear either. The nose – oh the nose, that’s so great – floral, complex fruit, some whole clusters, just gorgeous! The palate has good shape and volume, nice acidity too – not a wine of power or concentration, but jaw-droppingly delicious! A great 2011!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Carrick, Cairnmuir Terraces EBM Central Otago Chardonnay
(EBM – Extended barrel maturation) A low yielding vintage – 3-4 tonnes per hectare (25 hl/ha) then 18 months in barrel.
Ooh, that’s a deep colour, but yellow, not golden. The nose too – pow! Very ripe, waxy lemon with a hefty whiff of pepper too – subtle it’s not – but it’s still good! Plenty of mouth-filling volume, that ripe citrus, with almost a spiced pear and a touch of caramel in the finish. I almost find a grain of tannin in the finish and slight bitters too. More than impressive for its age, but a long way from elegant if that’s what you’re looking for. Yum! A powerful and impressive wine.
Rebuy – Yes

some cool bottles from the last days…

By billn on July 02, 2019 #degustation

Honestly, it’s taken me a few days to drink these – and with help too! The hot days of the last week-or-so have seen me reaching for bottles of water, direct from the refrigerator, rather than for wine. I’m predominantly in need refreshment right now, and if I were to cool the wine more then I would just drink it far too quickly than would seem appropriate for the cost of the bottles! Oh well – but you can at least see that I’m trying!

2014 Dampt Frères, Bourgogne Tonnerre Le Clos du Château
Open, attractive, very citrussy sweetness, even suggesting a little white flower blossom. I always like the mouth-filling volume and energy from this wine, and apart from one that had a bit of mustiness (probably) from the cork, all remain, bright and attentive. Long, incisive citrus fruit for a finish too. Excellent.
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Alice & Olivier De Moor, Bourgogne Chitry
Some of the first bottles seemed to have some aromatic padding, but this seems to be becoming more incisive with time – I like! Modestly mineral, melting flavour that has a becoming sweetness. Just a delicious wine!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Domaine Faiveley, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champ Gain
This starts with plenty of barrel – sweet, creamy, almost vanilla barrel – and a very unusual impression of banana – clearly not my ‘thing.’ I defer to my bottle of water. On day 2 (overnight in the fridge) this has improved massively – no oak, no banana and a fresh and direct, slightly citrus invitation now comes from the nose. I like the shape in the mouth – cut, definition, and fine energy. Growing in stature in the middle and already showing a great finish. I might not have loved the start, but the finish is more than promising. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

a little cooling fourchaume…

By billn on June 27, 2019 #degustation

2017 Julie, Nathalie & Gilles Fevre, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A nice, big, saline and citrus-mineral invitation. Thrilling, driving intensity – a juicily-mouthwatering waterfall of refreshment – just what I needed! Bravo – showing exceptionally – though maybe that’s the weather too!
Rebuy – Yes

faiveley’s 2010 nuits 1er chaignots

By billn on June 26, 2019 #degustation

Faiveley Nuits 1er Aux Chaignots2010 Domaine Faiveley, Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Chaignots
A wine that’s starting to show some maturity of colour. Ooh! What a nose! Complex, inviting, incredibly attractive spiced fruit. In the mouth there is much that reflects the nose – this wine is showing in such a flamboyant way today! Great energy blends with delicious complexity – it’s got so much more interest than the grand cru that it sits next to. Downright great wine today – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

My, my – I’m so enjoying 2010s right now!

this points nonsense is exactly that, nonsense – but don’t blame the wine…

By billn on June 25, 2019 #degustation#warning - opinion!

Or should I simply say ridiculous?

Let me get two things out of the way to start with:

  1. 2017 is a great vintage for white burgundy
  2. I also loved and highly recommended this wine in my December 2018 report for subscribers:
    2017 Ladoix
    A relatively new contract since 2015. It needed some work to sell to regular clients but now is starting to go very well. 30% new oak again.
    A vibrant nose – fresh, mineral and cut with citrus – yes! More density, more depth – ooh this great! Mineral, concentrated and beautifully pure – I could drink this every day – bravo!

But 98 points for a village? On the positive side, whoever reviewed this wine can indeed spot a great wine in its segment, but on the other hand, they render any scoring system completely meaningless – or perhaps, as Clive Coates once said, “Scores are in context!“…

the good, the…

By billn on June 20, 2019 #degustation

2013 Arnaud Ente, Meursault
I tasted this blind. So fresh – both aromatically and in the mouth – like a spear of flavour. I decided it must be 2014 or 2017 from this profile, but there was also a twist of the spiced sun – could it be 2015? I’d already seen the big blue wax top so had Ente in mind, so really thought that he could produce a 15 like that – no I decided to stay with 2014 because I felt that there was a bit of age to this wine. It turned out to be 2013 – so young for that, but now that little extra ripeness makes sense even if it didn’t recall apricot – simply a great 2013!
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Georges Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux Monts
Also tasted blind. A silky nose – with a bit of drive – yet also relatively compact. The last drops in the glass showing a volatile balsamic note. In the mouth, this is like the nose – drive to the flavour, relatively narrow – very good texture but no finish to write home about, not much oak showing though. My guess was 2016 – for the combination of concentration and depth of young colour – Côte de Nuits, quite well made – but probably a Bourgogne given the short finish. I was quite shocked when revealed.
Rebuy – No

Despite the hype over this domaine, I’ve not visited Maxime Cheurlin very often at Georges Noellat, despite liking both him and his dog! The main reasons are; 1) I find the wines in elevage too oaky for my palate and 2) given the very long elevage, my normal tasting time simply doesn’t suit evaluating the wines at that time – gas, oak, reduction – you name it. For those reasons I never found a lot of interest in the wines, though bottled wines tasted with him have always been lovely – but this wasn’t and it certainly didn’t warrant the tariff. I offered two different (good!) winemakers the chance to taste the wine – both thought a little volatile, one opined a Bourgogne, the other ‘possibly’ villages – both, like me, got the vintage.

monday night treats

By billn on June 18, 2019 #degustation

A quiet night out in Beaune:

2017 Jean Chartron, Bourgogne Chardonnay Clos de la Combe
A precise and perfect example of how good 2017 can be. A nose of fine and inviting limestone citrus. A palate of drive and energy – mineral but zero harshhness – salivating, mouth-watering for the next sip – the bottle was gone in short order. Simply excllent wine!
Rebuy – Yes

2014 Cécile Tremblay, Bourgogne La Croix Blanche
Plenty of colour. A wild nose – almost textured with whole-clusters and still some reduction. The palate is just the same – more rasping texture and an unswerving, never diminishing reduction – a wine that’s certainly showing some rusticity of texture today, too. This was essentially a wine that I enjoyed without ever admiring. My experience of such wines is that they will be super in 5 or 6 years but for now, perhaps, I’d look elsewhere.
Rebuy – Maybe

2000 G Roumier, Bonnes-Mares
Faintly animale, a nose with lively freshness, and a growing complexity of dried fruits – on one hand, a little tight but on the other, such an invitation to drink. Bright, pure, dynamic, vibrating with saline, complexly fruited flavour. This could be greater, but not massively – it’s still very much a baby. Great wine that you would never ‘pin’ as 2000, such is the clarity with which the flavour is delivered, but I’d wait 5 years for another – unless forced…
Rebuy – Yes

a weekend wine – week 23 2019

By billn on June 10, 2019 #degustation

L&A Lignier2008 LA Lignier, Clos de la Roche
The recent 2008 Charmes-Chambertin from here was a bit of a disappointment – perhaps not easy to produce as there was only 1 barrel – but this is simply magnificent!
Plenty of colour and what colour – it could be a 2012 or 2014 – it’s just so young looking. A vibrant nose, one that emits a radiation somewhere between raspberry and red cherry – this aroma is such a great invitation. Fresh, mouth-filling – absolutely full of energy and intensity – so long, so delicious – bravo! Power, freshness but balance too. Great wine, in a great place right now, even if it’s without any overt maturity!

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