Degustation

weekend wines, week 48 2018

By billn on December 04, 2018 #degustation

2010 Roty, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
I tasted, and loved, this way back in late 2013 – so much so that I ordered a case. Fast-forward 5 years and I eventually got it delivered – what a silly boy! Whilst I may have missed out on a few years great drinking, I’m sure that in that time I found some adequate substitutes! Based on the first two bottles – yes, this wasn’t the only one this weekend! – it seems this wine will still be drunk with great pleasure over the next couple or three years!
Medium, bright, young colour. The nose is analogous to the colour – medium, bright, pretty red fruit. Once-more the palate follows the theme – here with a lovely silky texture. Easy-drinking, pure and whilst über-drinkable – no overt signs of maturity. I think it was a fuller wine when young, but it has lost little of its drinkability.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux-Monts
Fuller colour. An equally fuller and deep nose – fine-textured dark red fruit and the last vestiges of a once stronger oak. Ample – mouth-filling wine. Concentrated and well-textured – lots of volume of smooth, dark-red fruit flavour here. To borrow a word, hedonistic. Not yet complex, or mature, but delicious today, and like the nose with the faint traces of a, once, much stronger oak. The best it’s tasted since release – but still a baby…
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines, week 47 2018

By billn on November 27, 2018 #degustation

Wow – week 47 done already – where did all that time go? Anyway, two wines that doubly underscore the fabulous utility of less well-known appellations – Savigny white and Ladoix red, anyone?

2016 Serrigny, Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc
What a little beauty! Fresh, faintly phenolic like a good Chablis, depth and zing like a great Savigny blanc – Did I ever say how much I enjoy Savigny whites? – I probably did! Simply excellent wine – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 G&P Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot
The nose is good but a little pinched – it’s not yet lighting my fire. The palate on the other hand is muscular but lithe, silky but profound – the fruit is a dream. This wine is presumably still young as it’s never been better than now – except, maybe, the nose. Simply great wine and a pleasure to drink the bottle dry in one evening!
Rebuy – Yes

fourrier’s 2001 griotte, today…

By billn on November 23, 2018 #degustation

Home-made Shepherd’s Pie (for the detail-conscious, actually Cottage Pie!) so what to drink? This fell nicely to hand:

2001 Fourrier, Griotte-Chambertin
I opened this 2001 with a bit of trepidation – well, it’s said that JMF had some cork problems in this vintage – but this is in perfect shape.
Not such a big nose, a faintly spiced and roast fruit that’s slowly starting to grow some more mature dried leaf aroma and even a little (grounding) Gevrey earth. Medium bodied, with a very fine texture and an almost equally fine and complex width of flavour too. Not super long but a comforting wine that’s completely delicious, indeed excellent – How excellent? Well it didn’t last the whole evening! However, this is, for me, a prime example of why I found JMF‘s Clos St.Jacques of the era a more interesting and complex wine – I can see that the Griotte is usually better today vs his CSJ, but not 20 years ago…
Rebuy – Yes – at the original price 🙂

a special treat – weekend wines, week 46 2018

By billn on November 19, 2018 #degustation

Certainly not every year, and hardly every second or third year, but every so often you have to do it properly eh? Or how can you have benchmarks?

A couple of empty soldiers from a tasting chez Bouchard Père which I will write-up in my Bouchard visit report – the others from a very above average Saturday evening with old friends.

2007 Comtes Lafon, Montrachet
Wines like this, whilst definitely a premox gamble, define for me the pinnacle of white burgundy – the best 2007s being easily a match for the best of 2014 – my two modern-day reference points.
Good, deep but young yellow-gold colour. Shimmering, bright, wide, ripe citrus fruit with a touch of creme caramel. Sleek, wide, powerful wine – of perfectly fine texture and the simply amazing combination of deep, ripe fruit and a waterfall of mineral edginess. I can drink white of any age with great enjoyment, but here is a wine that defines young. So long, shimmering with energy – just like the nose – still with that caramel from the nose rounding out the finishing flavours. Despite the caramel, great wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Comtes Georges de Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles-Vignes
Oof that’s deep colour. The nose is sleek, with plenty of volume but the aromas remain compact and never fully open. The palate reflects the nose; sleek, great drive, perfect silken texture. It’s a big wine, amply concentrated, but like the nose, and quite rare for a 2000, hardly ever gets out of second gear. It’s a beautiful glass but hardly offering 40% of the potential that I see in reserve. Clean, concentrated but ungiving.
Rebuy – Maybe

1996 Joseph Drouhin, Musigny
Yes! What a nose! Open, complex, floral and with beautiful fruit – young but offering everything on a plate – brilliant. In the mouth you would be forgiven, despite fine drive and energy, for not spotting this as a 1996, the acidity is perfectly covered. Complex, fresh, giving, open, just about all that you wish for – except – any overt maturity. Despite it’s bravado and a peacock’s tail of a finish, this is still a bit of a baby, but what a baby. Great wine again!
Rebuy – Yes

a couple of mid-weekers…

By billn on November 16, 2018 #degustation

2001 Comtes Lafon, Meursault 1er Les Perrières
A deepish colour. The nose is a little tired, but not oxidised – it remains, almost, an invitation. The palate starts narrow then opens wider and wider – there is an energy zip here and a really profound depth of delicious finishing flavour – surely for drinking up, but excellent and clearly head and shoulders better than the brown one of these opened and directly poured away two years ago.
Rebuy – Maybe

21998 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Clos des Ducs
Quite a deep and still a younger colour. Ooh – broad – such a big nose – a little diffuse but complex. On day two, though, it’s simply first class – wide, silken, supple and fine fruited. There is volume in the mouth here – quasi grand cru for sure! Full, still with a lick of faintly astringent tannin, but layers and layers of slowly mouth-watering flavour. A baby – and will probably be an even greater baby in another 5 years-plus. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

a couple of weekend 45 (2018) wines…

By billn on November 12, 2018 #degustation

No notes taken at the time, but easy to recollect:

2007 Comtes Lafon, Monthelie 1er Les Duresses
Directly a lovely wine – open like all 2007s, but with a little more zip to the energy and more complexity than most. Very stable wine too – it was opened on Friday but only finished on Sunday – when it was equally good, having spent time in the fridge. Very easy to recommend…
Rebuy – Yes

1990 Michel Juillot, Corton-Perrières
The cork slid very easily out. No oxidation but the nose has a certain amount of brett – below my pain threshold, but not by a lot – fortunately it’s hardly visible in the flavours – so one maybe two glasses might be tolerated. BUT! We had steinpilz risotto – and wow – the nose wasn’t much better, but the previously modest palate became absolutely delicious. Note to self – if in doubt about a middle-aged red, drink it with mushroom risotto!
Rebuy – No

weekend chablis – week 44 2018

By billn on November 06, 2018 #degustation

Rewarding, weekend sippers…

2016 Celine et Frederic Gueguen, Chablis 1er Vosgros
Not such a wide nose, but it has depth. Ooh, this slips easily, silkily, into the mouth, but it is also a wine of deep concentration. Widening over the palate, slightly steely, obviously flinty, such an intensity of fresh, pure flavour – but flavour that says ‘wait!’ Excellent stuff but this for your cellar just now.
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Julien Brocard, Chablis Boissonneuse
Already number 6 from a case of 7! – Yes I know, don’t ask! – but it is so hard to keep my hands off!
A hint of extra fresh and ripe lemon on the nose. The palate is simply more dynamic – beautifully fresh, a hint of sucrosity that’s not obvious on the 2016. A beautifully shimmering finishing energy – lemony fruit in this finish. Not the intensity or concentration of the last but simply a wine of complete and delicious accessibility. Bravo – great villages…
Rebuy – Yes

the medalists – concours des vins du grand auxerrois 2018

By billn on November 04, 2018 #annual laurels#degustation

Yesterday, the latest edition of the Concours des Vins du Grand Auxerrois (Auxerrois Wine Competition) was held, with nearly sixty jurors and 201 different wines entered.

The Confrérie des Chevaliers des Trois Ceps(!) plus chief judge Nelly Lega blind-tasted the wines and in the appended pdf you can see all the results – enjoy…

weekend stuff, week 43 2018

By billn on October 30, 2018 #degustation

Hot-footing back from Beaune on Friday, I thought to myself – Chambertin time! I’d pulled this bottle out for a friend’s tasting of Chambertins and Bèze, but after some date changes, I found myself unable to attend – a big shame – but the bottle was still looking at me, so…

1996 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Chambertin
Ponsot’s 1996s have a reputation for not being ‘on it!’ Laurent counters that no-one should judge his wines before they are 25 years old – okay, I’m not quite there, but close…
The long cork slides out rather easily, but it looks in great shape. The first sniff of the wine shows some oxidative notes but also a whiff of something resembling great Chambertin – unfortunately that was the only decent whiff it gave – afterwards just oxidative notes. On the palate the shape was mouth-filling with an impressive and saline depth and length of flavour, unfortunately everything preceding that was oxidative. I didn’t like it – even if the label had said 1946, I still wouldn’t have been interested to drink further. So then came an experiment – can you still make a good boeuf bourguignonne with oxidative wine? I can tell you that the answer to that, is a resounding yes!
Rebuy – No

Next day, with out boeuf bourguignonne:

1999 René Engel, Grands-Echézeaux
I had the impression that this was a heavier bottle than Philippe had used in earlier vintages. The colour was deep. The nose grew and grew; peppery, herby, mega-complex and saline – it was a rush! The palate was direct and a little narrow – driving you towards the finish. Not that sweet but with a wonderfully impressive weight and length of finishing flavour. Classic but great, young 1999 style. If you want hedonism drink this wine from 2000-2003 in preference to this still rather young wine. With our boeuf the wine widened and fattened, becoming much more accommodating. No doubt great wine – maybe I’ll try another in a couple more years!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Vincent Latour, Meursault Cuvée St.Jean
I visited Vincent for the first time to taste his 2016s – a very good effort in such a challenging vintage. I re-visited last week, and can tell you that he has brilliant 2017s. He thrust this bottle – a blend of multiple sites in Meursault – into my hand when leaving, and I have to say that this is showing very well.
The nose is open and comfortable, faint hints of oak mingling with a little spice of the village. In the mouth there is the comfortable depth of texture of the vintage but still with enough acidity to enliven this cosseting, silky experience. Just delicious…
Rebuy – Yes

Burgundy Report

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