some old wines…

By billn on May 20, 2019 #degustation#events

clos des perrières

Meursault 1er Clos des Perrières – 2017-1928
A day in Beaune today – despite the grey skies, it was one of those special days in Beaune. A privilege to taste wines back to 1928 – ostensibly white wine – but good enough that Lalou Bize-Leroy was coming back for extra sips. So many highlights!

Of course all will be in my May report – but first, it’s time to finish April’s!

leclerc’s 2002 griotte

By billn on May 16, 2019 #degustation

2002 Chézeaux/René Leclerc, Griotte-Chambertin
The extra-long cork comes out with a satisfying pop, but the end of the cork doesn’t smell nice – I’m anticipating brett or similar – drat – I have at least a couple more of these made by Leclerc plus two or three from Ponsot of the same vintage. I think of Leclerc as making better wines in 02 than today, fortunately the cork couldn’t have been more misleading – this turned out really well!
The nose – well there’s a toasty oak-style reduction here, but essentially this clean, attractive, wine with a bloody iron impression to good fruit. The smoky reduction is on the palate too – but it’s a palate of good energy and even nicer fruit with a lovely energy – you could drink this way too quickly! Less than half a bottle makes into day 2 (I was the only one drinking this) and the reduction – both aroma and taste – are gone. The freshness is still there and the aromas haven’t developed anything unwanted. The intensity is good and there’s a nice cushioning. This is holding up very well – exceedingly tasty wine – I’m now happy that I have more!
Rebuy – Yes at the old price!

starting the week with…

By billn on May 15, 2019 #degustation

1995 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Roncières
Plenty of colour here – of-course colour with some age! The nose is forward, pepper-spiced and even a little creosote to this complex and inviting whole – clean though, there’s no brett. Nice volume in the mouth, still with some tannin but the sweetness of fruit is the perfect foil for that – strawberry-fruited long flavour – ooh that’s good – fine freshness and involving, tasty flavour and ready now! I have a general feeling of respect for this domaine, but rarely do I find the wines delicious – but this one is – and it only needed 24 years! This drank effortlessly well over 2 days.
Rebuy – Yes

week 18, 2019 – weekend wines…

By billn on May 07, 2019 #degustation

Including a brace from Mr Croix this weekend…

2007 Camille Giroud, Chapelle-Chambertin
A wine that seems lightly coloured yet with time in the glass I’m sure it darkens. The nose has a lovely width of freshness, with clean white mushroom, clearly plenty of maturity here but it’s pure and attractive. Good volume in the mouth, modest, mid-weight, density – for a grand cru – but there’s a good intensity of flavour which lingers in a high-class way. The depth of flavour is subtle but fine. A wine that’s ready but with no rush to drink. Yum – indeed delicious – yet I think I preferred the recent 07 Cazetiers from here.
Rebuy – Yes – at the old price…

2017 Julien Brocard, Chablis Boissonnière
I stupidly forgot that I’d left this in the freezer – but on the positive side I didn’t need a corkscrew – only a few hours for the damn thing to unfreeze! Interestingly I had performed my own cold-stabilisation – the wine afterwards full of tiny tartrate crystals!
A little pineapple showing on the nose. Rippling, mineral, fine acidity with, like the nose, that pineapple aspect to the fruit. Wide modestly saline but fine purity in the finish. Super, as always…
Rebuy – Yes

2009 des Croix, Corton Grèves
Only two years younger than the Chapelle, but such a younger colour, and more depth of colour too. Hmm, a more pure-fruited and bright nose – but with depth too. Mouth-filling, penetrating, great intensity and purity – this is such a baby. Wide, fresh, still a little bitters in the finish, but what a persistent finish! Still a bit too young today but with undeniable potential!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Alice & Olivier De Moor, Le Caravan
Clairette (Rhone), chardonnay (Ardeche), chardonnay and sauvignon gris from near Charolais, and pinot blanc and riesling from Alsace, and the aligoté from home.
The overt apple aroma seems to fading on this wine – but the fresh invitation remains. Bright, with lovely line and texture – narrower than the Chablis but a wine you can compare. Delicious, off-piste wine.
Rebuy – Yes

our friends in the north…

By billn on April 29, 2019 #degustation

Actually there was a ‘chaser’ in the form of another bottle of Nicolas Maillet’s 2014 Mâcon-Verzé – but that’s not from the ‘north!’ In this case a more mature bottle than the previous ones – more honied and deeper coloured – half an hour of air and this freshened and even seemed to have lighter colour – still delicious!

2012 Clotilde Davenne, St.Bris Vieilles-Vignes
From magnum. There’s a little extra depth to the golden colour here. The aromas at first show a faintly fumé, caramel, edge to the more expected mint-leaf – attractive! In the mouth this is simply super – mouth-filling volume, fine structure and mouth-watering and precise flavours. Most people preferred this to the wine that followed. Me included!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Eleonore Moreau, Chablis
From magnum. Medium lemon-yellow colour. The nose is wide and has some weight – a little saline and even spicy. Nice volume in the mouth and with a lovely, silky, texture. Fresh, long, tasty and saline in the mid and finishing flavours. Very tasty wine, if without the precision or intensity of the St.Bris.
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Maison de la Chapelle, Irancy
From magnum. Deeply coloured – almost saturated. A big fresh waft of aroma – floral, faint pyrazine, and dark cherry. In the mouth a wine of drive and fresh energy, but also with a buffering weight of dark, kirsch-style fruit – and like the nose, inflected with some modest pyrazine notes. This wine has a very most base of tannin – virtually without grain – and long mouth-watering finish. Of-course we are drink this wine far too early – but we are enjoying it – there are more bottles in the cellar for the future!
Rebuy – Yes

a friday night cazetiers…

By billn on April 26, 2019 #degustation

This wine was singing already 2-3 years ago – this is my last. I’ve also some Chapelle-Chambertin in the same mixed case – which wasn’t quite ready the same 2-3 years ago – I think it’s probably time to check in on that one too, soon!

2007 Camille Giroud, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers
Plenty of maturity in this medium-coloured wine – though still red-based colour – as opposed to brown! The nose has lovely, silky, width – almost with a creamy accent to notes that are complex, quite mature but very clean – the last drops suggesting something a hint more balsamic but with floral notes too. In the mouth this is certainly mature but still retains a sweetness of fruit – again, the small waves of fruit flavour are accented with a very modest creamy impression – but it’s not at all overt. Fresh, nice complexity of flavour, and like nose, a clean flavour package that pushes you to take another sip – moreish wine. Delicious as this is, I remember enjoying it even more that last time out – super wine nonetheless – but possibly it’s time to drink if you still have some.
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines – week 16 2019

By billn on April 22, 2019 #asides#degustation

A super-successful, eclectic, bunch of wines this weekend…

2017 Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay Blanc Chardonnay Rose
I’d already tasted one with him last week, but as I was leaving his cellar Sylvain thrust this unlabeled bottle into my hands – and why not! ‘Chardonnay rose’ is a mutation of chardonnay that seems to be found only in Marsannay. Sylvain Pataille noted that he had these pink grapes amongst the usual yellow-green as far back as 2002, and since then he’s decided not just to propagate this mutation, he’s also planted them at high density – 2014 was his first vintage for this cuvée.
A little roundness and silky texture to this wine – freshness and purity that not everyone manages to achieve with whites in this village – there differentiator, I think, versus ‘normal’ chardonnay, is that there is a more overt floral flavour-aroma – or as Burghound used to say ‘inner mouth perfume.’ Very easy – and delicious – wine to drink without ever seeming to be outstanding in a particular direction…
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Volnay
As I tell you every time, there’s a lot of 1er cru juice in this wine, and as I also tell you every time – this is one of those very, very tight 2005s – since the beginning – except…
What’s this? A much more open nose than I remember ever from this cuvée. In the mouth it has the silky directness that I’ve come to expect – and almost appreciate – but for the first time, this wine is starting to widen over the palate, flavour that’s beginning to melt, offering mouth-watering deliciousness – if still in a direct form. The fruit is that supposedly classic but actually quite rare thing in Burgundy – strawberry – actually a lovely airy flavour. Easily the best outing for this wine – it’s only taken about 13 years since bottling – so far!
Rebuy – Yes

2013 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée Clos du Colombière
Modestly coloured. The nose and palate are very airy and have slight firework reduction – just like all the 2012s did. This is always the lighter, more airy of the Louis-Michel’s Vosnes. Open, tasty, only very slowly losing that vibration of reduction. Importantly, it’s very delicious wine – but don’t come here for impact or concentration.
Rebuy – Yes

2015 JC Bessin, Chablis 1er Fourchaume La Pièce au Comte
Of all this weekend’s wines, this takes the crown. A wine that’s intense, sparkling with personality and just so pure and complex – the vintage adding a hint of charm that’s probably still missing in the domaine’s 2014. Long, saline – but a wine that sparkles with complexity – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Alice et Olivier de Moor, Bourgogne Chitry
I’m ashamed to say, that we drank this rather quickly – so a proper tasting note is out of the question 2 days later – but the lasting impression was of a sweetly mineral wine of fine texture – delicious wine!
Rebuy – Yes

I live at 580m in Switzerland, so unsurprisingly, my vines are a week or-so behind those of the Côtes – but they are coming on:

some weekend wines – week 15 2019

By billn on April 16, 2019 #degustation

2017 Alice & Olivier De Moor, Le Vendangeur Masque, Le Caravan
A mélange of different cepages from the south to north: clairette (Rhone), chardonnay (Ardeche), chardonnay and sauvignon gris from near Charolais, and pinot blanc and riesling from Alsace, and the aligoté from here. Lots of small cuvées assembled at the end.
A tight nose. There’s something of an apple freshness on the palate – nice zip to the attractive flavour and a silky texture. Super-tasty!
Rebuy Yes

2016 Vocoret, Chablis 1er Vaillons Vieilles-Vignes
A little greenery in the aromas – herb/lime. There is certainly concentration and intensity here though – a wine you can almost chew. I can see that I’m drinking it a little on the young side but the concentration and the mineral-lime-fruited hybrid of flavour works for me. A concentrated wine of some impact – don’t come for flowers or elegance!
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Yvone et Laurent Vocoret, Chablis
Compared to the first Vocoret – chalk and cheese. Here’s a nose of width, of elegance and fresh yellow citrus. On the palate, open, sweetly mineral and citrus – decent concentration though less than the Vaillons. Just an easy, delicious, wine. Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 L et A Lignier, Charmes-Chambertin
Since I junked Facebook at least 2 years ago, I’ve no idea how Lucie, Auguste and of-course Kellen Lignier are doing – I hope they are well in the US. Anyway, I’ve some of their wine from about 06-08, so having come across this 2008 I though ‘Why not!’ Of-course it is Laurent Lignier who has been exploiting the domaine wines here since about 2009/2010…
This is a completely front-loaded wine – the nose attacks with pungent, old oak – a fecund mix of forward and quite attractive aroma if the dirty old oak doesn’t put you off! Given time the nose has a little spice and balsamic too. In the mouth this starts big but narrows into a modest, acid-led, finish. The acidity of 2008 without anything terribly out of balance or any spikyness. The finish is fading and is very modest in amplitude. Versus most villages wines today, from 2014-2017, this is essentially a bit thin – but the forward energy and some maturity make it very tasty. In the context of current grand cru pricing this would be a bad joke, but it’s delicious wine if you ignore that GC label…
Rebuy – No

Delicious as it may be, I see not a lot of upside in waiting further for this Charmes – based on that, I think the 2008 Clos de la Roche, that I found in the same carton, is another candidate for this year.

1996 Thomas-Moillard, Corton Clos du Roi
I tasted one of these in early 2000 and liked it enough that a dozen were purchased for a good price – perhaps less than €25 each, even much less. The first bottles had a certain flamboyance – if caged with a little 1996 acidic rigour – and I quite like a bit of acidic rigour! Thereafter, the wines slowly grew in rigour and became less flamboyant! It’s now a few years since the last one, so…
Ooh – still a deep, deep colour. The nose, unlike many of the domaine’s wines from Vosne, has a pure, clean attack – zero brett – under there’s dark but ripe fruit of sweeping fresh lines. In the the mouth intensity, concentration, and of-course plenty of acidity. Here are small waves of successive finishing flavour – layers of flavour. There’s still a little suggestion of bitter tannin in the finish as there’s also (clearly!) not much in the way of voluptuous padding. That said, that’s about as tasty and clean a performance as I can remember from this wine since, circa, 2003. Good wine, maybe even fine wine given the purchase price, but I’m pretty sure that it’s never going to be great wine. Today I enjoyed it though!
Rebuy – Maybe

some mid-weekers…

By billn on April 11, 2019 #degustation

Another from my 6-pack of Ramonet Mâcon-Péronne – super – you can find a proper note on that one in the last few days entries…

2012 François Buisson, Meursault 1er Genevrières
A name that I don’t know too much about – a cousin of Michel Buisson – from Buisson-Charles.
Ooh – this starts very 2012 – a little tight in the aroma and a wine of drive and line – fresh, intense, but not a wine that melts over the palate. My first impression was Chablis-esque. The second half of the bottle was drunk on day too – by now the aromas had relaxed and opened some, likewise there was a little more fat on the palate – the wine was now recognisably Meursault, but still with a beautiful line – always with great texture. Pure, delicious and showing the vintage more than the vineyard, I think. Worth learning more about this domaine…
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Château Ravatys, Côte de Brouilly Réserve
Deep colour – but what a wine. Just a trace of the spiced fruit of 2015 – of-course plenty of ripeness of fruit too. In the mouth, this is a dream – really! 2015 Beaujolais really doesn’t get better than this – depth of flavour, fabulous texture – gorgeous flavour. A wine that, right now, has everything – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

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