Degustation

my christmas magnum opus

By billn on January 03, 2019 #degustation

Of-course with a little help from my friends…

You already met the 1981 Nuits, earlier in my posts, so:

2010 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Beauroy
Light, very young colour. The nose is pure, saline, seashore – perfect. Nice zing and intensity – pure and delicious flavour – the finish a little short/inconsequential – but a prefect condition, perfect quaffer that everyone loved – easy!
Rebuy – Maybe

2010 Camille Giroud, Corton-Charlemagne
My 2017s in 75cl all died more than 3-4 years ago, but this is pristine in magnum format.
Certainly a darker colour, still a suggestion of oak but a powerful lychee-style tropicality, yet rippling muscle, and fine energetic drive to the concentrated flavour. Honestly, this is such a baby – a delicious baby – but maybe drunk 5-10 years too soon. Hard to tell with some of these wines – eh?
Rebuy – Yes

1998 Faiveley, Corton, Clos des Cortons Faiveley
I thought that Erwan Faiveley was having some fun when he described this cuvée as ‘approachable’ – I thought to myself ‘approachable in what – a full hazard suit?’ but this frightening combination of cuvée and vintage is indeed quite drinkable – but it’s still 10 years too early in this format!
A nose of cool fruit, blood, a certain celery-style herb – but very clean – there’s no brett or anything like that. In the mouth medium bodied but with a good intensity – very young, practically primary flavour but zero astringent and I must say, a nice texture. Baby wine – it drank well over nearly 3 days, but like a ‘too young’ wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
I have some of this in magnums from 2006 and 2005 – it’s still too early to prise a 2005 from the cellar I think…
Medium-plus colour. The nose has an easy quality to it – appealing, but far from the invitation of an Amoureuses. Tasty wine, of good shape, modest intensity and even quite good complexity. Simply a good wine. I was expecting more – luckily the premium for this label was very little in those days. Tasty but not special.
Rebuy – No

2013 Nathalie & Gilles Fevre, Chablis Les Preuses
I decided too early to open any of 2012, 2014, 2015 or 2016 but maybe 2013 would be worth it! Loved the silver-coloured wax capsule.
Hmm – a big aromatic here, a little apricot and lychee, but also a saline suggestion too. In the mouth, big energetic wine with plenty of sucrosity – it’s completely delicious – though you may be hard pressed to spot it as a Chablis – blind. But loved by all.
Rebuy – Maybe

2008 Camille Giroud, Bourgogne Pinot Noir – Cuvée L
L for lees – the blending of the remaining lees at bottling for all this producer’s wines – bourgogne, villages, 1ers and grands crus – then left a number of months more to (best as possible) settle. Clearly this needed more than the 5 days I gave it – it was never clean and bright!
Fresh – open, younger but complex nose. Open, good intensity – fresh-flavoured – actually very delicious in an open and easy style. Not perfect clarity, but a shape, a definition, that reminded me a little of Cortons. Very open, very tasty – I guess I’m lucky to be the only person with magnums 🙂
Rebuy – Yes
 

christmas magnums

By billn on December 23, 2018 #degustation

The format seems to much more christmassy and for sharing, so here’s the first this season.

1981 Maison Clavelier – Hospices de Nuits, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Corvées Pagets – Cuvée Saint-Laurent
A length of name that’s right up there with many from Deutschland! Noted, the label is only 75cl.
The corks starts to move very easily until it crumbles through the middle – a combination of Ah-So and normal cork-screw worm does the trick in multiple pieces though with hardly any ‘bits’ dropping into the neck. Browner colour but the nose is not particularly oxidised for the age of the wine. Actually it’s a more floral nose – aged for sure but not a hint of brett or leather. The flavour is easy and elegant – this is an elegant senior citizen of a wine – a touch of oxidation that shows only through some suggestion of balsamic, there’s no tannin to speak of as it has long-since been deposited on the walls of the heavy, older-style bottle. Tasty, easy – everyone loved. A good start..
Rebuy – No need (I have more :))

weekday wines, week 51 2018…

By billn on December 19, 2018 #degustation

A holiday week in the south of France – though plenty of typing was interwoven. Our first bottle was the 2016 Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly Les Griottes de Brulhié – and like most Thivin, for my palate, it was delicious. Deeply coloured and fruited – just a great bottle – the oak is not completely gone, but now is on a quite modest level. Next the crémant, 2014 Louis Bouillot, Perle d’Or – a sample, but drunk as any bottle should be. Open, good fizz – even a decent fizz for the last glass on day two. Tasty wine, and for about €12 a bit of a steal to be honest – excellent! Another bottle of the Roty – that’s at the third of this case in the last 2 weeks and it was as delicious as the previous bottles. Why not some white? okay, 2016 Domaine de Serrigny, Savigny-lès-Beaune – fresh, aromatic, depth of fresh, alive, concentrated yellow-citrus flavour – the first time that I’ve noticed some barrel notes in the finish – but frankly the wine remains delicious. The last of this week’s south of france selection was 2016 Laurent Martray, Côte de Brouilly Loïs – eventually deeply coloured wine – I say eventually because the cork was like a piece of cement in the neck – eventually being removed in 3 pieces – not the fault of the attractive wax capsule – I’m sure. More direct and acid-forward than the Thivin – like an acid cherry. Tasty but not showing at it’s best – I think the cork could have some bearing on that…

week 49 weekend wines – 2018 BJ Nouveau, 2017 Chambolle, plus an older one…

By billn on December 10, 2018 #degustation

Well, let me tell you that the Domaine Romy 2018 Beaujolais Nouveau Le Mouflet was that very rare beast – a Beaujolais Nouveau Rosé! This wine was light coloured, transparent, nicely structured and fresh in a way that the best gamay manages to surpass in the vas majority of rosé pinot noirs. It was simply great!
Rebuy – Yes

Then came the 1997 Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts
My last one of these was almost undrinkably bretty, but this starts fabulously with a great and complex mature burgundy nose – so good! After 30 minute, unfortunately, this adds a bit of brett into the mix. A wine that remains drinkable, but much less ‘sniffable’ as it nears its last pours.
Rebuy – No

Lastly the 2017 Bernard et Armelle Rion, Chambolle-Musigny Les Echezeaux
A deep colour for the vintage. The nose is herby but with a very fine fruit and faint flowers too. Big wine, some structure, some herb on the mid-palate complexity too – but what a great depth of fruit as we head into the finish. A wine that softens with air – becoming ever-more friendly. Pretty excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines, week 48 2018

By billn on December 04, 2018 #degustation

2010 Roty, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
I tasted, and loved, this way back in late 2013 – so much so that I ordered a case. Fast-forward 5 years and I eventually got it delivered – what a silly boy! Whilst I may have missed out on a few years great drinking, I’m sure that in that time I found some adequate substitutes! Based on the first two bottles – yes, this wasn’t the only one this weekend! – it seems this wine will still be drunk with great pleasure over the next couple or three years!
Medium, bright, young colour. The nose is analogous to the colour – medium, bright, pretty red fruit. Once-more the palate follows the theme – here with a lovely silky texture. Easy-drinking, pure and whilst über-drinkable – no overt signs of maturity. I think it was a fuller wine when young, but it has lost little of its drinkability.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux-Monts
Fuller colour. An equally fuller and deep nose – fine-textured dark red fruit and the last vestiges of a once stronger oak. Ample – mouth-filling wine. Concentrated and well-textured – lots of volume of smooth, dark-red fruit flavour here. To borrow a word, hedonistic. Not yet complex, or mature, but delicious today, and like the nose with the faint traces of a, once, much stronger oak. The best it’s tasted since release – but still a baby…
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines, week 47 2018

By billn on November 27, 2018 #degustation

Wow – week 47 done already – where did all that time go? Anyway, two wines that doubly underscore the fabulous utility of less well-known appellations – Savigny white and Ladoix red, anyone?

2016 Serrigny, Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc
What a little beauty! Fresh, faintly phenolic like a good Chablis, depth and zing like a great Savigny blanc – Did I ever say how much I enjoy Savigny whites? – I probably did! Simply excellent wine – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 G&P Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot
The nose is good but a little pinched – it’s not yet lighting my fire. The palate on the other hand is muscular but lithe, silky but profound – the fruit is a dream. This wine is presumably still young as it’s never been better than now – except, maybe, the nose. Simply great wine and a pleasure to drink the bottle dry in one evening!
Rebuy – Yes

fourrier’s 2001 griotte, today…

By billn on November 23, 2018 #degustation

Home-made Shepherd’s Pie (for the detail-conscious, actually Cottage Pie!) so what to drink? This fell nicely to hand:

2001 Fourrier, Griotte-Chambertin
I opened this 2001 with a bit of trepidation – well, it’s said that JMF had some cork problems in this vintage – but this is in perfect shape.
Not such a big nose, a faintly spiced and roast fruit that’s slowly starting to grow some more mature dried leaf aroma and even a little (grounding) Gevrey earth. Medium bodied, with a very fine texture and an almost equally fine and complex width of flavour too. Not super long but a comforting wine that’s completely delicious, indeed excellent – How excellent? Well it didn’t last the whole evening! However, this is, for me, a prime example of why I found JMF‘s Clos St.Jacques of the era a more interesting and complex wine – I can see that the Griotte is usually better today vs his CSJ, but not 20 years ago…
Rebuy – Yes – at the original price 🙂

a special treat – weekend wines, week 46 2018

By billn on November 19, 2018 #degustation

Certainly not every year, and hardly every second or third year, but every so often you have to do it properly eh? Or how can you have benchmarks?

A couple of empty soldiers from a tasting chez Bouchard Père which I will write-up in my Bouchard visit report – the others from a very above average Saturday evening with old friends.

2007 Comtes Lafon, Montrachet
Wines like this, whilst definitely a premox gamble, define for me the pinnacle of white burgundy – the best 2007s being easily a match for the best of 2014 – my two modern-day reference points.
Good, deep but young yellow-gold colour. Shimmering, bright, wide, ripe citrus fruit with a touch of creme caramel. Sleek, wide, powerful wine – of perfectly fine texture and the simply amazing combination of deep, ripe fruit and a waterfall of mineral edginess. I can drink white of any age with great enjoyment, but here is a wine that defines young. So long, shimmering with energy – just like the nose – still with that caramel from the nose rounding out the finishing flavours. Despite the caramel, great wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Comtes Georges de Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles-Vignes
Oof that’s deep colour. The nose is sleek, with plenty of volume but the aromas remain compact and never fully open. The palate reflects the nose; sleek, great drive, perfect silken texture. It’s a big wine, amply concentrated, but like the nose, and quite rare for a 2000, hardly ever gets out of second gear. It’s a beautiful glass but hardly offering 40% of the potential that I see in reserve. Clean, concentrated but ungiving.
Rebuy – Maybe

1996 Joseph Drouhin, Musigny
Yes! What a nose! Open, complex, floral and with beautiful fruit – young but offering everything on a plate – brilliant. In the mouth you would be forgiven, despite fine drive and energy, for not spotting this as a 1996, the acidity is perfectly covered. Complex, fresh, giving, open, just about all that you wish for – except – any overt maturity. Despite it’s bravado and a peacock’s tail of a finish, this is still a bit of a baby, but what a baby. Great wine again!
Rebuy – Yes

a couple of mid-weekers…

By billn on November 16, 2018 #degustation

2001 Comtes Lafon, Meursault 1er Les Perrières
A deepish colour. The nose is a little tired, but not oxidised – it remains, almost, an invitation. The palate starts narrow then opens wider and wider – there is an energy zip here and a really profound depth of delicious finishing flavour – surely for drinking up, but excellent and clearly head and shoulders better than the brown one of these opened and directly poured away two years ago.
Rebuy – Maybe

21998 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Clos des Ducs
Quite a deep and still a younger colour. Ooh – broad – such a big nose – a little diffuse but complex. On day two, though, it’s simply first class – wide, silken, supple and fine fruited. There is volume in the mouth here – quasi grand cru for sure! Full, still with a lick of faintly astringent tannin, but layers and layers of slowly mouth-watering flavour. A baby – and will probably be an even greater baby in another 5 years-plus. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

Burgundy Report

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