Degustation

some weekend wines – week 11 2019

By billn on March 20, 2019 #degustation


Shock – almost forgot to post this!

2015 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Bearoy
Beauroy is rarely the most interesting of the 1ers – the extra clay here bring more roundness to the wines – but whatever – this 2015 was singing.
Fresh on the nose, some riper citrus for sure. In the mouth, it could only come from Chablis – plenty of salinity the giveaway. Delicious tasty wine that costs not a lot. Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Seguinot-Bordet, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Clearly there’s a little more zip to this more open and fresh nose – still a ripe citrus aroma, but somehow leaner. This is exactly as I remember it from tasting at the domaine – dynamic, crystalline, über-delicious wine. A treat!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Thillardon, La Haut – Le Blanc de Thillardon VDF
From 8 hl/ha. A crémant bottle with a crown-cap as there’s 5g residual sugar in this – just in case it decides to ferment in the future – it’s already 14° and no sulfur.
Cloudy – plenty of yeasty dregs from the last pour too. The nose is deep and far from pure but has a sort of yeasty crémant style to it. Fresh, petillant very tasty wine. The sort of moreish wine that you have to keep going back to despite its manifold faults. So Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Boudriotte Rouge
Relatively light, and aging colour. The nose is a lovely, already leafy and sweet invitation. There’s still concentration to this open wine, and a sweetness of fruit too – but – the mid and finishing flavours still have a surprising amount of harsh, bitter wood. I like the start, but I don’t like the finish. On day three the last half a glass is a smoothie, so I’m sure the oak will continue to fade – but wait at least 2 more years I think…
Rebuy – Maybe

2005 Roger Belland, Santenay-Commes 1er
The earliest wine that has a DIAM that I have in the cellar – I think I have some of his Santenay-Beauregard too which will also be DIAM.
As you can see, the ‘cork’ remains in perfect condition, and probably this wine is better than at any stage of its life, a full, super-fruity, deep nose of far more purity than I remember when young – the oak most have been eaten by now! Like wise plenty of richness of fruit on the palate and super clarity for a Santenay of this era – certainly from this producer. Perfect shape and absolutely delicious!
Rebuy – Yes

starting monday with a little vézelay

By billn on March 18, 2019 #degustation


Tasted blind, today, in Chablis, samples courtesy the domaines…

To get this week started, five very drinkable wines from the home of this year’s St.Vincent.

2017 is the first vintage for the villages appellation of ‘Vézelay’ – previous to that, the wines were labeled as Bourgogne Vézelay. 2017 was also a very low volume vintage for Vézelay – 1,320 hectolitres from not much more than 70 hectares that were in production – that’s only about 18 hl/ha – like Chablis there was much frost in 2017.

One of the Croix Montjoie wines is a little obviously oaked, but when you see the cuvée name – well that explains everything 🙂

2017 Vignerons de la Colline Éternelle, Vézelay
Medium-pale yellow. In the mouth this has plenty of volume and quite a nice texture – supple and showing a nice ripeness of tasty fruit. The finish has a little mineral aspect with the merest touch of rigour. Overall, very drinkable.

2017 Domaine La Croix Montjoie, Vézelay La Voluptueuse
A hint more colour. A wider nose with a touch of oak spice. Again a mouth-filling wine – sweet, silky, the oak is quite forward in a more Mâconnais style. Very delicious, if very obvious, wine – but fine finishing. I’d keep this in the cellar 12 months before drinking.

2017 Domaine La Croix Montjoie, Vézelay L’Élégant
Here the nose is on one hand more compact, but on the other of finer, more precise citrus fruit and even a few floral accents – very attractive. Plenty of energy – much more acid-forward – some agrume intensity here but also some richer depth of flavor in the mid-palate. Ooh this is less delicious than the last but more my personal style of wine – it’s excellent!

2017 Domaine La Croix Montjoie, Vézelay L’Impatiente
Like the last, the nose is a little more compact, but showing fresh citrus fruit and even a little salinity – attractive again. A little more energy and some minerality showing with this one too – much more in a Chablis/Tonnerre vernacular. A little richness of texture and less direct attack from the acidity. My favourite.

2017 Jean-Luc & Paul Aegerter, Vézelay Réserve Personelle
The is the only wine sealed with a DIAM-style cork.
Fresh, wide, open, citrus accents, almost a little lime fruit and phenolics in here. A subtle prickle of CO2 and a modestly reductive mineral impression. This brings a wide impression over the palate and it’s another wine with a nice texture. Whilst it’s the most overtly mineral finishing – less-so in the Chablis/Tonnerre style of the last. Carafe this, but it’s a very good wine.

some weekend wines – week 10 2019

By billn on March 12, 2019 #degustation

2013 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée
My first from this mixed case. Ooh what a great looking cork – a fine ‘pop’ as it’s extracted too – but the cork doesn’t smell very nice.
Is it corked? – well, not easy to tell as there’s plenty of toasty reduction. Wide, supple, the palate is suffused with the reductive note of the nose but then a broad and tall finishing wave of great flavour – the texture is fine here. I give this wine the old ‘Fourrier-shake’ and it seems that there’s plenty of CO2 to dislodge. The reductive note fades, but never disappears – the cork note that takes over is stark – ouch!
Rebuy – almost certainly Yes (without the TCA…)

2017 Julien Brocard, Chablis Boissonneuse
A new case – of 7!
Fresh and ripe lemon on the nose – more ripe than I remember when first opening – but it adds more focus with time. The palate is still dynamic, fresh, and sweetly ripe. Bravo – still great villages…
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Domaine Diconne, Auxey-Duresses Vieilles-Vignes
Hmm – this seems to be my last one – I clearly have an errand…
A nose that’s a real invitation – there’s the impression of freshness but also of concentration. Silky and intense. Mobile and wide over the palate, I love the energy but depth of pure flavour here – excellent wine.
Rebuy – Yes

monday, so it must be the clos de vougeot

By billn on March 11, 2019 #degustation#events

Well, it could have been April given the variability of the weather – except that it was colder – the heavy bursts of rain often contained hail but they were punctuated by a beautiful blue sky. I saw 0.5°C as the lowest temperature on my early-morning trek over the Jura from Switzerland. One cloudburst of small hailstones had the effect of depositing 4-5cm of what looked like snow onto the autoroute – cars pirouetted, lorries jacknifed – not many people have winter tyres in France!

The 4-wheel drive, winter-booted Scooby danced through it all – but still had to beware of what others might do! Anyway today was the Trilogie en Côte de Nuits and my destination was the Clos de Vougeot to taste 2017 wines from 3 villages – Morey, Chambolle and Vosne – though there was also ‘Mini Me’ in the form of a small contribution from Vougeot too – I did have the impression that there wasn’t a lot of Chambolle on display. The first of these ‘Trilogies’ I attended was in a small cellar in Vosne to taste 2007s – some producers really haven’t improved since then – yes I’m looking at you Gros Frère et Soeur!

The rain was lashing when I arrived in Vougeot, and, of-course, cars were parked (abandoned!) everywhere – so a long hike with an umbrella was my choice. 1,000 people had registered for the tasting, so in circumstances like this you cannot taste everything – my choice was to taste all the Vosne-Suchots, Chambolle-Charmes, Echézeaux and Clos de la Roche that I could find in the room – there were surprisingly few of the 1er crus! Fortunately, a small, tasty, buffet lunch was included – necessary as, following my very early departure from Switzerland, my low sugar levels demanded action in the late morning.

Lots of old-faces to renew acquaintances and some good wines too – notes will follow-up in the reports section!

three reds: average age 25 – including the 2014…

By billn on March 07, 2019 #degustation

1991 Vaudoisey-Creusefond Pommard 1er Epenots
A great year of the Côte de Nuits – in my experience – but less-so in the Côte de Beaune. My last couple of these – a few years back – were bacterially unstable – so I was flipping a coin here.
This smelled open, fresh and very clean – just a freshness over dried cranberry/raisin fruit. Hmm – the same on the palate – freshness – quite clean, cranberry-raisin – a dried but quite pure fruit. Wide, good depth. Long and tasty. A result! After 30 minutes the nose is developing some balsamic overtones but this wine stays quite stable – even the last third on day two was pretty good.
Rebuy – Maybe

1976 Tollot-Beaut, Aloxe-Corton
Clearly not the best seal as this cork starts to sink in the neck when pushed with the ah-so, but I still managed to get it out in one piece, so that was an achievement!
Brown wine, no doubt. The nose hovers between beef soup and balsamic though not directly of sherry. Mouth-filling, silky, despite the renown of the tannins of the vintage, and with a saline accent. The flavours, like the nose, certainly on the savoury side. Actually the shape and structure remain fine here – but flavour that only a mother could love. The remaining two-thirds will go for the beef bourguignone – I have 8-9 more of these, maybe 10 – so at worst, I’ll have plenty of beef bourguignone!
Rebuy – No

2014 Leclerc/Chézeaux, Griotte-Chambertin
Hmm, big, simmering cherry fruit – gives the impression of a little gas behind the aroma – subtle and interesting it is not – at least to start with. Ooh – but in the mouth: A narrow entry here, but a wine that grows and fills the palate with impressive speed. The acidity is fine and the the width and energy ramp up as you head into the finish – of-course it’s far too young – but it’s getting better and better with air… The nose over 3 hours, never really finds a nice place – in fact I almost have the impression of a little of this other 2014 from them – though, nose apart, that Chambolle has much more depth and dimension – it’s a far better wine.
Rebuy – No

some weekend wines – week 9 2019

By billn on March 04, 2019 #degustation

A couple of ‘grand’ but ‘ordinary’ wines before their bigger brothers and sisters. Those bigger brothers and sisters had more of everything, but were not necessarily more delicious – there is much value to be found in Burgundy – still!

2017 Céline & Frédéric Gueguen, Sacy ‘Cépage Confidential’ Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
Already in bottle for a year now. Sealed with a DIAM-style ‘cork’ but from Trescases…
Big, wide, saline nose – a little more pungent impression below – very attractive, even compared to the Meursault. More open, more saline, less intense but a fine fresh width. Less long too but a delicious thing – like a salted agrumes. A hard cepage to find, but worth a little searching!
Rebuy – Yes

2010 François Gaunoux, Meursault 1er Gouttes d’Or
Not the longest cork here – but in perfect shape.
Hmm – an intense lemon yellow. The nose starts almost a little structural and angular, but aeration brings some cushion and a rounder impression – a little more flesh too. Wide, citrus, intense citrus, mouth-watering, holding a long line. A little custard style to the flavour. Long finishing in a lemon-custard style. Something of baby that starts angular and becomes ever-more welcoming with air, ever-more delicious too though I’m not sure that I would have guessed Meursault.
Rebuy – Maybe

2010 Joseph Roty, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
Since 2012 this wine is labeled Côteaux Bourguignone – it’s 100% pinot. A perfect cork of modest dimensions.
What a wine! Drunk over three nights as a chaser for the other bottles – it started aromatically dumb on the first night, was beautiful on the second and even more beautifully perfumed on the third. Mouth-filling, fresh, nice energy, still quite young with an ever-growing depth and tension to the flavour. Simpler, for sure, but no less delicious than the following wine – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Vougeraie, Clos de Vougeot
The most impressively long and young looking cork.
Ooh – exciting, deep, leafy, sweet with a touch of white mushroom. Fresh, very wide over the palate, ingraining the tongue with flavour, so mouth-watering and with super length. Not necessarily more delicious than the Roty, but certainly with a much longer list of available adjectives – if that’s your penchant! Gorgeous, gorgeous wine – narrow finishing, but also very long finishing.
Rebuy – Yes

jean-marc & hughes pavelot’s 2000 savigny dominode

By billn on March 01, 2019 #degustation

2000 Jean-Marc & Hughes Pavelot, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Dominode
Plenty of colour. The nose settles with some slightly balsamic notes in an otherwise attractive width of mature red fruit – faintly spiced. Nice lines, and despite plenty of earthy rubble that has formed in the base of this bottle there’s more than a lick of tannin that remains. Still, whilst a charcterful wine, it’s never rustic. It’s a fine and broad width of middle and finishing flavour, though after an hour I can sense some developing brett. The conclusion is clear – take less than 1 hour to drink this wine – bring in friends if you have to. It’s a robust wine, and apart from the brett there remain many youthful aspects. This wine was at its best between 05-15 years of age – it’s still very drinkable, but not on the same level.
Rebuy – No

old, but not past it* bourgogne blanc

By billn on February 28, 2019 #degustation

*Past it – informal British:
Too old to be of any use or any good at anything!

But it seems that the ‘good luck lightningcan still strike twice in the same place!

1996 Patrick Javillier, Bourgogne Cuvée Forgets
A nose of some weight, freshness and faint truffle. Round, vibrant but with very balanced acidity – none of uncomfortable intensity of some 1996s. Long. You would never guess Bourgogne – super-wine! A second bottle of this (yes, there was more!) was more tired – so – not in my glass, thank-you 🙂
Rebuy – No Chance!

1996 Michelot, Bourgogne Blanc
More bright and floral aromatics – less what I’m expecting – but still quite the invitation to drink. Also vibrant in the mouth. More intense flavour, delicious and showing a little extra floral complexity, slightly less round than the Forgets.
Rebuy – No Chance!

Both completely delicious, but the Javillier (bottle number 1!) edged it for me.

weekend wines – week 8 2019

By billn on February 25, 2019 #degustation


A lovely, diverse, selection this weekend:

2014 Yvon et Laurent Vorcoret, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Still relatively modest colour. A nose that, after the Italian, is clearly more powerful and sweepingly saline. Supple, wide, complex, saline – mineral – ooh – you know what? This is absolutely great. There’s such a depth of long, lingering flavour. For the cash, this is absolutely eye-catching, taste-budding stuff – bravo – just so good and so quickly the bottle is drained!
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Cuvée Vézelay
Bottled for the St.Vincent – I have a couple more!
Fresh, citrus, more direct fruit than the Chablis and still plenty of minerality – but the Chablis has more. This is what many a St.Romain wants to grow up like – but without the often, heavy-handed oak of the Côte d’Or! Brilliant stuff…

2017 Julien Sunier, Fleurie
Red wax-topped…
Plenty of colour for such a hailed vintage. A nose of both fine width and depth – filled with round, red fruit – such a success for the vintage. Mouth-filling but still with great line. Hardly an overt note of tannin – super energy too. Über-delicious – and it was gone in a flash!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chézeaux
Hmm – what an invitingly deep colour. The nose still actually has a touch of vanilla from the barrel – but there’s depth of dark-red fruit topped by a little floral accent too. 10 minutes and the volatile oak seems to have fled. Wide, beautiful, concentrated red fruit, a mineral, graphite style in the mid-palate that accents the red fruit. Wide and delicious, only modestly sweet, but who needs more. Great villages. Oh, and so very yum!
Rebuy – Yes

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