Degustation

some weekend bottles, week 06 2019

By billn on February 12, 2019 #degustation

First-up the 2017 Seguinot-Bordet, Chablis 1er Fourchaume. Drive, fresh, pure – a sleek line of flavour that whisks you into a delicious, and saline-inflected, mineral finish. At it’s best cold – and at its best, it doesn’t last long! – An easy Rebuy – Yes!

Second, another white, and one that underlines why I like this producer so much: 2014 Nicolas Maillet, Mâcon-Verzé – a little fuller, riper, more yellow citrus nose. Riper and fuller flavoured too – but with great drive and energy from its acidity. Oh yum – my slight preference from these two – and another easy Rebuy – Yes!

Lastly the 2016 Piguet-Chouet, Auxey-Duresses Les Heptures Cuvée Mathis – how’s that for an off-putting mouthful of a name(?) A wine that on one hand is ripe, round, concentrated, nicely textured and with good balancing freshness – and on the other hand is choc full of vanilla oak – as such, not for me! More white Vicar?
Rebuy – No

a weekend wine or two – week 5 2019

By billn on February 04, 2019 #degustation

I love my snow, but don’t you also just love getting 15 cm of the stuff the day before you have to set off, very early, to Beaujolais? Hopefully the roads are not all stuffed – it’s only 350 km to Moulin-à-Vent…

2012 François Gaunoux, Pommard 1er Grands Epenots
Depth of colour. The nose is a little tight – at least in the width – with modest floral top notes and a decent depth of darker red fruit. Incisive, clean flow of flavour, but certainly a little tight today – very tasty wine for sure and with decent intensity too but only hinting at the depth that Grands Epenots should show – that said, it is very ‘current 2012’ in that respect. Clean, tasty, with nice lines – but wait a while longer if you want more communication from your glass. The depth of flavour in the finish is really quite promising.
Rebuy – Yes – but wait 3-5 more years…

2002 Nicolas Potel, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts
I’m not sure how many of these remain from my original case, but it’s 2-3 years since I last tasted one, so…
Under the LED lights of my kitchen table, there’s very little difference between the depth of colour of this, and the Grands Epenots. This nose has much more width of aroma, but a little less depth – the width being rather complex and attractive though. Reflecting the nose, the palette of flavours is significantly wider, if not deeper – but today, at least, this is on a completely different level of complexity and length of flavour – I have to say, that from a modest start, the flavour of this is quite something – almost a peacock’s tail of a finish. I’ve had some bretty bottles of this cuvée – but at least in the first hour from opening – and it didn’t last much longer than that – this bottle showed none of that.
Rebuy – Yes!

As my better half puts it, the Potel tastes old, she prefers the clean lines of the Gaunoux, though was seemingly happy to take the last pour from the Potel 😉

dublère’s 2015 côte de léchet

By billn on February 01, 2019 #degustation

Next week will be the start of lots of visits and tastings in Beaujolais – but conversely, much less actual wine drinking! Another from this week:

2015 Domaine Dublère, Chablis 1er Côte de Léchet
Some golden colour here. Fresh, concentrated yellow fruit, ripe lemon and more, though not much in the way of seashore. In the mouth this starts with attack before you slide, once more, into a ripe citrus, a mineral citrus, there are small finishing waves of flavour too. Incisive, concentrated, delicious chardonnay – yes! – but, if I might observe, not overtly Chablis!
Rebuy – Maybe

2014 berthaut-gerbet / chézeaux – lavaux

By billn on January 31, 2019 #degustation

Much nicer than the 2014 Ponsot of a few days ago…

2014 Berthaut-Gerbet / Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
Ooh, that’s a deep colour. Wide and deeply aromatic – almost a grain of texture to the sumptuously dark fruit. Mouth-filling, silky, growing with both direction and intensity – super length. Such a dark-fruited baby that starts sumptuously before following a fine and fresh line of flavour through the middle and into the finish – so open and delicious today. Bravo, a great 2014!
Rebuy – Yes

this week so far – a brace of jcb

By billn on January 30, 2019 #degustation

2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Morey St.Denis 1er Monts Luisants
A satisfyingly strong cork is a good start, but a nose such as this takes it to the next level – deep, almost a licorice frame to the dark fruit. Fine volume in the mouth, width, dark fruit that’s redolent of the nose, a modest baseline of tannin – a little plushness to the texture. Layered and über-delicious finishing – such a shame that I only have one more of these. The finish has a little bitter chocolate – some dark, almost dissolved, wood here. Great premier cru – it would make many grand crus blush! Another 5 years needed for optimum drinking, but this bottle did not last the whole night!
Rebuy – Yes

2007 Jean-Claude Boisset, Nuits St.Georges Aux Lavières
Decent depth of colour, though starting to show some age. Wide, sweet dried leaves, perhaps a hint of cocoa-powder. Medium weight, some direction, mocha-tinged fruit. The barrel is showing here, but so is plenty of sweetness from the fruit. A modest touch of tannin on the end of the tongue, and actually quite good length. A tasty wine, like the last still showing some of its elevage but very tasty. If I could choose only one, it would be the 2006. But this is very tasty wine.
Rebuy – Yes

a poor weekend of ‘on-piste’ wines – week 03 2019

By billn on January 21, 2019 #degustation

From the great off-piste wines of last weekend to the disappointing on-piste wines of this weekend!

2014 Ponsot/Chezeaux, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
My first from this case. I note a more golden inner-ring on this plastic suppository (cork) – maybe that’s the reason I’ve never extracted an Ardea more easily!
Day 1 – Relatively modest colour. Hmmm – what is that strange smell, practically balsamic – after 5 minutes in the glass the smell is even stronger! Was that a dud Ardea then or – optional lightbulb moment – this is 2014, could it be Suzuki? Hmm – well it’s something. The line, texture and freshness are fine, very fine. Pinch your nose and it even tastes half-decent – but given the price of this cuvée should I have to pinch my nose to drink? – No! Maybe it was the Ardea, a second bottle would confirm, but I’ve only three more, so that can wait for another day.
Day 2 – overnight in the cold but stoppered: Significantly less volatile (no surprise) but still not a great smell – but the taste is now great with quite some profound, creamy old vine flavour – a better nose and I would say that this was a great 2014.
Day 3 – the first day with something approximating to fruit on the nose – but it’s too late for the palate – all the interest is gone!
Rebuy – No

2005 Maurice Ecard, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Jarrons
My last one of these was bad, probably cork-related. This begins better…
This starts great, open, dark coloured, full of aroma, a suggestion of earth and flowers. In the mouth, very good volume and density, width of flavour, depth of flavour too. The last notes are a touch oxidative – but just a touch – I clearly don’t think much of the corks used here, but this wine is very drinkable, indeed yum! But it is for drinking-up now – which is a shame for a 2005.
Rebuy – No

weekend wines – week 02 2019

By billn on January 14, 2019 #degustation

2017 Bourgogne Tonnerre Le Clos du Château Blanc
Hmm – some vintages this is a match for 1er cru Chablis, and it’s there or there about in 2017. Fresh, a 2015 style of yellow, easy fruit but with definition and drive. It’s as good as it gets in white burgundy at €8 – actually for that price it’s simply amazing!
Rebuy -Yes

Which reminded me that I had an ‘older’ bottle of the red:

2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Le Clos du Château
Here’s a wine that I suggest searching out in riper vintages
Modest colour, but a nose of vibrant pinot fruit – very red fruited with a subtle herb – though much less than you will find in the majority of Savigny, for example. Presence in the mouth, easy, slightly creamy – probably once from a more overt barrel – open, fresh only a grain of tannin if you go in search of it. Easy, tasty wine for a very modest price – highly recommended in this vintage.
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Domaine des Billards, St.Amour Reserve Caveau
Rounding out a trio of great corks.
Ooh now that’s a deeper colour – almost saturated. A deep nose, luxuriously fruited with a touch of pepper above – white pepper. Ultra-silky, a wine of muscle, of sinew, a richness and depth of flavour but no fat. So many layers – ooh great wine, great finishing. Hard to imagine doing better for the price in Burgundy. Normal service will be resumed with Côte d’Or wines next week!
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines, week 1 2019

By billn on January 09, 2019 #degustation

1996 Guy Castagnier, Clos St.Denis
A cork that broke into many pieces – just about recoverable
My last one of this stinked – brett amongst other things – this was way better! A smooth and pure dark-red fruit on the nose – in fact just that – a nice line and shape, but primary – at 22 years old! The palate was reasonably concentrated, nicely silky but like the nose – oh-so young. Given the forward but still balanced acidity I’m not sure what vintage I may have guessed – still a bit sharp for 2005 – but equivalently young. No maturity here – but delicious – all was drunk the same night. And it was a stable wine too – no bretty development – the last sip was as good as the first.
Rebuy – Yes

Now you mention 2005s…

2005 Bertagna, Chambolle-Musigny Le Village
Another terrible – broken in the middle cork – at this level of annoyance, I’d prefer DIAM! Not recoverable either, even with an Ah-So, it ended up in the neck so I quickly decanted through a filter.
Well, what do you know – more depth and certainly more aromatic complexity – perhaps even maturity – than the 1996. Go figure. It’s a dark complexity that is visible in the flavours too – perhaps a little oak-derived. But a wine with more volume and more maturity than the CSD, complex though less finely textured. A great and cushioned wine for the label – Chambolle has always been my sweet spot for 2005s. Great Villages! Another wine that didn’t last the night (but not the same night!)
Rebuy – Yes

a few wines to get back into the swing of things – week 1 2019

By billn on January 04, 2019 #degustation

2006 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
A golden colour, but not so deep – it looks fine! Hmm, it smells fine too! A little toast, fresh width and fainter sweetness. Weight in the mouth, a freshness that easily carries a richness of extract – growing wider, mineral, concentrated – such lovely texture. Excellent, mineral, length. Beautiful shape, more mineral than tasty – but still yum!
Rebuy – Maybe

2007 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
Plenty of energy on this nose, just a little more appealing than the 2006. Ouch – that’s great – but only just. Many lower wines in 07 can be like battery-acid, this avoids that, but it’s still not a wine for the acid averse. Complex, tasty and with so much zing – just drink is somewhere calm! I love!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
A more cushioned nose, faintly sweet, almost a sweet apricot aspect. A hint more age than the 07, but whilst there’s plenty of acidity, this is less driving than the 2007 – it’s the most balanced and delicious of all these wines so-far – still vibrant, indeed electric in the mid and finish. I maybe love this even more than the 07!
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
Hmm – a fresh nose but with a depth of toasty notes – this needs a litter air. I’m expecting some fat, some richness, but no – fresh, mineral, balanced – yet without an obvious acidity like the last two wines. It seems that this is balanced more by its minerality than its acidity. Open, classy, great texture and importantly delicious – something that to an extent the 2006 lacks.
Rebuy – Yes

I admit that I’m tempting fate, but I’ve never had a sub-par bottle of Alex’s Dents du Chien. Maybe I should pull out the 2004 and 2005 that I have somewhere!

1998 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Chambertin
Well the quick summary would be that this was almost a waste of a bottle. I remember Laurent Ponsot telling me a few years ago that his wines shouldn’t be judged before they were twenty years old – more recently he updated that to 25-years – he had probably tasted this wine just before we spoke!
The nose is fresh but narrow; celery, a considered, almost spiced but certainly understated dark-red fruit aroma. Fresh, clean lines over the palate with a depth of black-cherry fruit, almost black-olive ‘fruit’ – this is a wine of line and freshness, not a wine of weight or concentration. I drank it, all of it, with a certain, measured, enjoyment, but certainly not enthusiasm given the label – or the price-point! Certainly not worth the price of entry today, your mileage may vary in the future…
Rebuy – No

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