Degustation

monday night treats

By billn on June 18, 2019 #degustation

A quiet night out in Beaune:

2017 Jean Chartron, Bourgogne Chardonnay Clos de la Combe
A precise and perfect example of how good 2017 can be. A nose of fine and inviting limestone citrus. A palate of drive and energy – mineral but zero harshhness – salivating, mouth-watering for the next sip – the bottle was gone in short order. Simply excllent wine!
Rebuy – Yes

2014 Cécile Tremblay, Bourgogne La Croix Blanche
Plenty of colour. A wild nose – almost textured with whole-clusters and still some reduction. The palate is just the same – more rasping texture and an unswerving, never diminishing reduction – a wine that’s certainly showing some rusticity of texture today, too. This was essentially a wine that I enjoyed without ever admiring. My experience of such wines is that they will be super in 5 or 6 years but for now, perhaps, I’d look elsewhere.
Rebuy – Maybe

2000 G Roumier, Bonnes-Mares
Faintly animale, a nose with lively freshness, and a growing complexity of dried fruits – on one hand, a little tight but on the other, such an invitation to drink. Bright, pure, dynamic, vibrating with saline, complexly fruited flavour. This could be greater, but not massively – it’s still very much a baby. Great wine that you would never ‘pin’ as 2000, such is the clarity with which the flavour is delivered, but I’d wait 5 years for another – unless forced…
Rebuy – Yes

a weekend wine – week 23 2019

By billn on June 10, 2019 #degustation

L&A Lignier2008 LA Lignier, Clos de la Roche
The recent 2008 Charmes-Chambertin from here was a bit of a disappointment – perhaps not easy to produce as there was only 1 barrel – but this is simply magnificent!
Plenty of colour and what colour – it could be a 2012 or 2014 – it’s just so young looking. A vibrant nose, one that emits a radiation somewhere between raspberry and red cherry – this aroma is such a great invitation. Fresh, mouth-filling – absolutely full of energy and intensity – so long, so delicious – bravo! Power, freshness but balance too. Great wine, in a great place right now, even if it’s without any overt maturity!

audras 2009 juliénas presitige

By billn on June 07, 2019 #degustation

Audras Julienas2009 Vincent Audras, Juliénas Prestige
Lots of colour here – and younger colour than the previous 2010 from Mikulski! The nose starts really rather uninteresting which is in stark contrast to the palate which is bold, energetic and sweetly ripe-fruited. An hour is needed for the nose to open – then we see (smell!) subtle but dark fruit and a more forward graphite style of aroma. As the nose begins to open, the sweetness of the wine equally seems less jarring – with fine, mouth-watering, width and a little, very fine and ripe, grain of tannin. Not really much ageing here – a wine of freshness (altitude!) to match the ripe fruit. Excellent, still young and delicious!
Rebuy – Yes!

a 2010 mikulski

By billn on June 06, 2019 #degustation

francois mikulski

2010 François Mikulski, Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
The first nose has some dank, admittedly quite attractive dark oak notes – they hang around for 20 minutes or so before offering a nicely incisive dark-red fruit with a suggestion of cream. In the mouth, this is simply delicious: Succulent dark-cherry fruit with a fine rush of acid-led energy. The finish is long and mouth-watering with a faint but attractive lick of tannin to accent the dark fruit. Drinking fabulously right now – but no rush. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes!

a little le grappin…

By billn on June 04, 2019 #degustation

2012 Le Grappin, Beaune 1er Boucherottes
A nicely deep colour, but perfectly transparent. Just a touch of floral perfume over close to black fruit – clean and inviting aroma! Mouth-filling freshness – open and energetic with still just a lick of tannin. A super mouthful of dark-fruited clarity and energy. Really excellent wine that you can certainly enjoy now or keep another 5-10 years if that’s your wish – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines, week 22 2019

By billn on June 03, 2019 #degustation


Week 22 – pff! – that sounds like we’re already getting close to half-way through the year!
I’ll have to find a few good wines for the next days as my cold is fading to almost nothing, but for now…

We had weekend guests, so plenty of stuff was opened that has already been in these pages a few times in the last months, but new(ish) was:

2017 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Oh yes – clearly a fun Chablis from the first of the nose to the last of the finish! The nose is fresh, citrus and saline – a fine invitation. Good zip, and a flavour-energy combination that drives well into the middle and finish – really a nice line of acidity here. So Yum…
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Jean Foillard, Morgon Côte du Py
From Magnum. The colour is bright and freshly red but of only medium depth. The nose a little saline and whilst no faults, far from an invitation. The palate was simply lovely. Very comforting red fruits of sucrosity and energy – towards strawberry in fruit style. Light but very rewarding – drunk to the last drop by an appreciative crowd. Simply excellent despite the dumb nose.
Rebuy – Yes

2008 David Clark, Vosne-Romanée
Now here’s a wine that’s absolutely ‘on song‘ on all fronts today! The nose has depth and interest – another wine with a strawberry style to the fruit. Silky in the mouth with just a suggestion of fat to the texture and great energy without ever pushing too hard as some 2008s do. Delicious wine – also drunk to the very last drop.
Rebuy – Yes

2000 Thomas-Moillard, Bonnes-Mares
Deep colour. A nose that’s fresh, clean and packs a punch of deep, iron-inflected dark fruit. In the mouth this is still rather muscular – it’s a young wine – concentrated but without fat. The mid-palate intensity and length and complexity of the finish are really something to behold. You should still wait 3-5 years, but this drank well, if in a ‘no prisoners’ manner, unlike the ease of the previous two reds.
Rebuy – Yes

mid-weekers…

By billn on May 31, 2019 #degustation

The grip of my cold is loosening – I can smell and taste okay – just the odd bout of coughing now – I might even start jogging over the weekend! To ease me into the grander wines, maybe a couple of ‘easy ones?’ It turns out more complicated than that!

2017 Domaine Passeloup, Pierres Dorées Chardonnay
Slightly creamy, heavily laden with exotic fruit and core of ripe lemon fruit – it’s definitely not from Chablis! Wide, unctuous, but also rather mineral and saline. Unlike most from the region, there’s no rigour, no harshness, to this mineral side, in fact, it’s rather good. The first half is not my style of wine, the second is quite good!. Far from my usual chardonnay tipple, but I can drink a glass of this – possibly two! A slightly warmer sip seemed alcoholic – not nice – keep this cool! I’m still not quite sure what I saw in this wine the first time around…
Rebuy – No

2010 Chezeaux/Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin
Ooh, that’s rather deeply coloured for 2010. A big nose, of soil and graphite, but with forward dark-red fruit too – dare I say very Gevrey! It’s a super invitation. Concentrated and really rather silky – graphite again in the mid-to-finishing flavours. Mouth-watering in the finish too. This is top class villages – concentrated, fresh, clean and with a little panache, despite the concentration. Young but wonderful villages wine…
Rebuy – Yes

weekend wines, week 21 2019

By billn on May 27, 2019 #degustation

A modest report of modest labels but a couple of beauties nonetheless – my cold pairing down the notes to a sub-minimum:

2016 Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne
Good colour. Depth of concentration, really good texture. Balanced and excellent – the quality punches well above the label.
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Domaine Faiveley, Ladoix
Ohh, here is a proper white burgundy – just faintly oaked but with poise and drive – tension even! One bottle is not enough!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Clotilde Davaenne, Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Clearly more coloured than the Ladoix. Good drive, the impression of a little caramel to the flavours. Unfortunately put into the shade by the Ladoix, which it followed. Otherwise a good wine.
Rebuy – Maybe

a little weekend wine – week 20 2019

By billn on May 21, 2019 #degustation

2014 Jean-Marc Vincent, Puligny-Montrachet Corvées des Vignes
Plenty of colour. A nose that’s vibrant but also has a little rubbery reduction about it – for the 36 hours that this was open, it hardly faded. Wide, fresh, energetic, lovely acidity – penetrating flavour with super depth – moreish despite that same reductive note showing on the nose. Lovely but surely even better without the reduction…
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Chasselay, Beaujolais La Platière
What to follow a Griotte-Chambertin with?
Ooh – that’s a deep, dark colour. The nose is a little yeasty and reductive – but what a panorma of flavour. Juicy dark fruit, layers of flavour. Fine freshness and lovely finishing. A hit!
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Gilles Bouton, Blagny 1er Sous le Puits
Hardly medium colour, also starting to show some age. A forward nose, showing some leafy development but essentiLly fresh and correct. Wide, open, bright and fresh – lip smackingly good flavour of acid-led freshness and fine depth and complexity – anonymously starting but opening with plenty pf interest. Essentially not much to start, but finishing with lots of fun, lots of flavour. Not as good as a decent 2010 villages from a proper red-wine village though…
Rebuy – No

2004 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
Plenty of colour here, but the nose is completely lacking any oxidation – there’s the first early suggestion of ‘older’ chardonnay aroma, and just a touch of asparagus too – I’ve met plenty of asparagus in 2011 Chablis, but this is a first in the Côte d’Or! The asparagus is present, if fainter, on the palate too. The palate has drive and an intense minerlity – I’m impressed, yet, this wine could do with a little more sucrosity – it’s hardly moreish. Good, indeed impressive, but certainly not great – other than intellectually…
Rebuy – No

2016 de Serrigny, Savigny lès Beaune Blanc
Ooh – that’s an attractive and inviting nose of creamy, sweet citrus I don’t mind if I do! In the mouth round but with rippling acidity, sweet citrus and a delicious, faintly oak-tinged flavour ensemble. Absolutely stunning for the price – über-delicious!
Rebuy – Yes

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