Tasted in Pommard with David Rebourgeon, 19 October, 2022.
Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure
6A Grande-Rue
21630 Pommard
Tel: +33 3 80 22 75 39
www.rebourgeonmure.fr
More reports with Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure
David on 2022:
“Really happy with the harvest in 22 – the volume was ‘correct’ but we’re getting to the stage where normal has become tremendous! There wasn’t much to triage. ”
David on 2021:
“21 of course is about half a harvest here – one of the smallest we can remember – worse than 2016 here. Fortunately, we are happy with what we harvested. Just a small part is bottled at this stage, it will be the end of the year for most of the others.”
The wines…
Such perfumed wines here in 2021 – a little more austerity showing in some of the early wines at the time of my visit – but what excellent wines – some great!
2021 Bourgogne Maison Dieu Rouge
Maison Dieu near the Château Pommard
Modest colour, pretty red fruit – nicely transparent and with just a hint of florals too. Open, properly mouth-filling. The flavour eases over the palate but with just a modest structural component – leave this for 6 months and all will be in place – that’s got a nice length of finish too.
2021 Beaune Epenottes
The first vines over the border with Pommard – villages section
Just a little more colour – a rounder though also more compact nose – again slowly adding some more perfumed aspects. More direct and cool-fruited – a clear step up here. Juicy fruit and very good texture. That’s a very delicious wine – fine Beaune and with a decent structure too – not just an easy round wine. This is really excellent village.
2021 Volnay
Again medium colour. A shape of aroma that leads you forward – less round – slowly showing aspects of berry purity and again a little floral component. Broader but equally cool and fresh in style as the Beaune. A touch of tannin is visible with this one but there’s no overt grain. Finishing broader and with a hint more sucrosity – more open but still with a nice touch of structure – so perfumed at the very end.
2021 Pommard
Multiple parcels, as usual, with three different types of terrior, high, those below the 1ers, and the other is like a little flood plain between Rugiens and the village.
Modest colour but so perfumed – that’s lovely. Hmm – that’s really open – nice in the mouth too – transparent and with fine precision. A slight augmentation in tannin, quite saline – wider and almost a little spicy in the finish. Delicious!
2021 Beaune 1er Vignes Franches
1916, 29 and 74 planting dates – the oldest pulled out to replant this year. The vines next to Clos des Mouches
Fresh width of perfume here – a great start. A little extra cushion and silk – slowly becoming more velvet as the tannin starts to show. Top – I love the last flavours of this – incisive, pure and completely delicious – a simply excellent wine!
2021 Volnay 1er
Here with a blend of Mitans and Santenots because of the frost. ‘Will probably label as ‘l’Exception’ or similar as not allowed to use the two names on a blend.’
A little more colour. A more spiced nose with higher tones. Direct, mouth-watering, with a more obvious acid component here. This has intensity and vigour, though today it’s a stark contrast to the oh-so drinkable Vignes-Franches. Very perfumed finishing though – that’s lovely…
2021 Volnay 1er Caillerets
Dessus 2 parcels – the first vines harvested almost every year.
A very different nose – deep with higher tones – a little narrower perhaps – more vertical with flashes of greenery in the complexity before a growing panorama of pure Caillerets fruit – this is what I’m waiting for! Supple, layered, beautifully textured – but properly structured too. Real Caillerets and assuming the green is only a phase it will be excellent!
2021 Pommard 1er Clos des Arvelets
South-facing, planted perpendicular to the hill to avoid erosion – ‘which means the tractor can’t get in – so all the work is done by hand. So A steep place, a sunny place but not that early in terms of growth as it doesn’t get the early sun but it definitely gets hot in the afternoons.’
A broader more encompassing nose after the Caillerets but like most of the wines here with a nice extra perfume. Hmm, clarity, good direction, cool fruit – just a really super shape – give it a year or two to settle – a small frame of tannin showing but never dominating. That’s simply excellent!
Planted in the 1960s. ‘Our only premier cru that’s on the Volnay side of the village – just 5 producers of this.’
More forward redder fruit here – finely pure and with just a hint of cushion. Broad, incisive, cool just so delicious and juicy. Oh yes! Pure joy to drink – bravo!
Just above Grands Epenots, vines from the 1920s…
Less open in the higher tones but a good breadth of fine red fruit at the base. Broader, more considered but also growing in stature in the mouth and juicily finishing. Fluid, super wine – just a hint more considered than the Micault but no less a wine – bravo – and so perfumed finishing again!
2021 Pommard 1er Grand Epenots
Modest colour and a nose that starts rather shy – slowly the purity of the red berry fruit starts to show itself then the next stage with the perfume – it’s very engaging. Structural, of course, but with fine, melting, mouth-watering, flavour – slowly showing a little creamy extra in the finishing mix of flavours. Intense and perfumed finishing – perfumed like all the wines here in 2021.
Les Whites:
2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay Zelie
Vines in Pommard. Some barrel elevage here – named after David’s daughter.
Open, slightly grainy-textured aroma but growing with more ripe yellow citrus fruit. Hmm, very silky and nicely direct too. The flavour mounting with decent intensity. That’s a proper mouthful of wine -and delicious with it – very well done – an excellent Bourgogne!