Tasted in Volnay with Frédérick Lafarge, 15 November, 2022.
Domaine Michel Lafarge
15 Rue De La Combe
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 61
www.domainelafarge.com
More reports with Domaine Michel Lafarge
Frederic on 2021:
“2022 was a good volume, of course, 2021 was not. That said, we are very happy with what we retained even though we lost 80%. The vines here were very advanced, with more than 5cm of growth when the snow came and the frost behind it. The year continued in a difficult way with only very small windows to treat between the rain – but at least we didn’t lose more! Keeping the moral wasn’t easy as there was a lot of work in the vines but you could see for almost no grapes… The triage was really for any unripe grapes, we had no rot. All our Volnay 1er crus have been assembled into a single cuvée in 2021 – instead of 5.”
The wines…
Miserly volumes in both the Côte de Beaune and the crus of Beaujolais. On the other hand, the modest number of cuvées that remain, are scattered with great wines – a brilliant return, qualitatively, particularly from their Beaujolais wines. This year the Beaujolais really show a family resemblance to the domaine’s other wines – not something I’ve seen before – really special!
Starting with les blancs:
2021 Bourgogne Aligoté Raisin d’Orée
Over 80-year-old vines – the last harvested – 5 October
Fresh and floral perfumed. Fine structure, purity and good intensity too. Shimmering finishing favour – ooh, this is so good!
2021 Meursault
Three parcels between Volnay and the village of Meursault
Broad, a little more weight to this nose – fewer flowers. Hmm, direct and intense, this has lovely energy too – the year with the purity of each terroir
2021 Beaune 1er Clos des Aigrots
1 barrel vs 6 in 2022
A nose that starts tighter but cushioned before opening out with finer purity. Broader than the Meursault a different register of perfumed flavour – a super balance of generosity but still tension!
Les Reds:
2021 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains l’Exception
Over 80 years old, half pinot, half gamay grapes always maturing at the same time, near Meursault. Grandfather first commercialised this. Now in tank but moved without malo, ‘it’s only just now starting…’
A broad and energetic nose today. Lots of gas and malic, but the fruit and energy is super – I expect this will be a super finished wine.
2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
4 different parcels at the bottom of the Volnay hill.
A large volume of very pretty and very pure red fruit. Some sucrosity and lots of energy – minimal padding but there’s a vibrantly good flavour here.
2021 Volnay
No ‘Selectionée’ this year – all is in here
A bit more colour. A little more depth to these aromas. The same freshness but more width, similar energy too
2021 Beaune 1er Clos des Aigrots
A calmer depth and a good breadth to this nose. More mouth-filling, still energetic and the fruit purity is quite something – I like the architectural shape of this!
100-year-old wines this vintage – the oldest vines of the domaine with 90% of the original vines – ‘We thought the consecutive years of hail might have finished a part so after 2014 vintage we pulled out 25% replanting in 2017. The rest have recuperated well though.’
Thats a very big, very different perfume – so inviting. Structural, incisive, pure – downright great wine – no question!
First time ever the 5 1ers of the domaine assembled:
What a perfume; vibrant, beautiful, red fruit – yes! Incisive and pure, there’s a blend of energy yet calm – faintly grained with tannin. Such a beautiful thing – great finishing. Complete for the vintage – and for keeping!
Beaujolais:
The following wines will be bottled at the end of November, unlike the wines from Volnay which will wait until March/April. “The biggest satisfaction is seeing the recompense for the previous year’s work in these wines:”
Also a very small volume, it was colder than here in Volnay. To be bottled next week from a similar yield.
Volume and energy here – a beautiful nose. Supple, mobile and with not too excessive energy. A calm but beautilly pure wine – bravo Chiroubles
2021 Fleurie
Two climats assembled, both on pink granite.
Also impressively perfumed wine again. More direct and a hint more intense. There’s a vibration to this finishing energy then broadening again for the finish, here a more mineral extra
2021 Fleurie Clos Vernay
1.3 ha, a granite and quartz base. Elevage in a foudre. A miniscule harvest from these 65 yo vines
Also impressively perfumed wine again. More direct and a hint kore intense, a vibration to this finishing energy then broadening again for the finish, here with a more mineral ‘extra.’
1.2 of their 6 ha.
Extra breadth and depth with some sweet perfume too. A fine and complete wine of breadth and direction, plus juicy, pure red fruit. Thats a great thing – bravo! Creamy old vine finishing.
En fermage in the heart of the appellation near Thivin – a mix of granite and blue-stone with 75-year-old vines.
Hmm – fine ripe red fruit with freshness and perfumed purity. Silky, mouth-filling wine. Again juicily pure and engaging – grand Beaujolais here! Holding so well too.