Boris Champy – 2021

3.1.2023billn

Boris Champy - 2022Tasted with Boris Champy in Nantoux, 17 October 2022.

Domaine Boris Champy
23 rue de la gare
21190 Nantoux
Tel: +33 3 80 26 03 13
www.domaineborischampy.com
More reports with Boris Champy

Boris on 2022:
Yes it was a nice volume – it was like a Californian vintage – a summer of no rain yet still volume. Not too much sorting, about 90g for a cluster and no sunburn – lots of juice. Definitely not like 21 on the sorting table.

Boris on 2021:
Of course we had to sort harder than in 2022. God didn’t punish everyone at the same time – in the côtes the flowering weather was very good – but 10 days later in the hautes côtes the weather was not as good for the flowering – it took a few weeks – so we were not touched by the frost but had bad flowering so we ended up with 28 hl/Ha up here. In Beaune, we protected with candles and it made a big difference vs our neighbours – in the end giving us a similar volume to our hautes côtes. I saw very late malos here – finished nearly into July for some. More new oak was used due to the lower volume – but it was good for the structure of the 21s. Nothing is bottled yet, of course. In some places, I thought ripening might not have been too easy so I also made some crémant with that.

The wines…

Boris has translated the vintage wonderfully well – great whites that you can blind-buy and a fair amount of great reds too – bravo!

2021 Côteaux Bourguignon, Gamay Fins
All gamay from Nantoux – 3 small plots next to the domaine’s main plots. 50% whole bunches and 3-year-old barrels used here.
Round – airy – lots of aromatic volume here, there’s a nice cushioned aspect to this nose. A big punch of fresh energy, sweet, intense, very faintly grained. Beautifully fruity and delicious. Simply top gamay!

2021 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Altitude
More airy – still plenty of volume but more open in style – a different and very focused fruit style. Broader, layered – so juicy – red fruit. A wine where you rush to take another glass – so yum!

2021 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune 421 En Bignon
A parcel with 421 metres of altitude between Nantoux and Bouze – ‘Very red soil with lots of clay – it doesn’t make a wine of lots of structure and the 500-litre barrels help to bring some generosity.’ A little less whole bunch than some years – 40-50% in this case – actually destemming and putting the stems in water and so2 before returning some stems to the fermentation – almost cleaning the stems first.
A much deeper nose – starting with a little reduction – so seems to be darker fruit. A big wave of vibrant, acid-led energy – like the nose darker fruited. Ooh – that’s also very, very moreish.

2021 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune 377 Le Clou
4.5 ha of mid-slope vines, was once owned by the Château de Nantoux and was called the Clos des Château once – some of the old vines dating from 1900. Unlike the last, if you have rain, here you can still walk in the vines…
Airy, almost saline – lots of (back to) red fruit complexity. More generous but still so juicy – a little creamy in the finish from the barrels. Another beauty!

2021 Pommard En Boeuf
A cool place for Pommard. Bud-break here is after Nantoux but the flowering comes sooner, so no frost at all here. En Vigneaux the next vineyard lost about half to frost. This is a place that starts to warm up in May.
A fine nose of both depth and silky width – perfumed with acidulated red fruit, almost orange pulp. Super in the mouth, incisive, intense, framed with a modest tannin – but no dryness. I love this finishing intensity – a little generosity to this texture, faint herb too – in a very good way. I find this excellent!

2021 Beaune 1er Aux Coucherias
‘Always windy here, so it’s a cooler area. Just up the route de Bouze – after the houses and Route des Vaches
A nose that cleans up beautifully with air – lovely purity. A few mm of cushioning here – purity, minerality and a fine cushion. So open, ethereal and delicious. That’s really special!
2021 Beaune 1er Vignes Franches
High, between the Clos of des Mouches and Ursules. ‘The candles saved some of the buds here in 2021 – the neighbours who didn’t use them were simply fried…’
Starting airy but again with impressive, almost granular, complexity – open and always something new to find. Cool, clean, direct – a very different shape – more fluid. Mouth-watering and moreish, more mineral in the finish, slightly chalky at the end. Bravo!

Les Whites:
The whites finished their malos last – almost in August:

2021 Bourgogne Aligoté Doré
This still without SO2
A roundness to this nose – sweetness too – cushioned. Broad, incisive and mineral, rippling with energetic citrus flavour. Gorgeous!

2021 Bourgogne Aligoté Doré ‘Vertical Press’
‘I can’t use the VP for the whole lot as the press lasts over 6 hours – but I love the straight quality of the wine that comes outs. So just 1k bottles of this.’
More direction, less cushion – super citrus style here. Clean, mobile, fluid – great wine – just unbelievably good – is the d’Auvenay better? Grand Vin.
2021 Bourgogne Huates Cotes de Beaune Montagne 382
A slightly low sulfur nose today – but still a vibrantly ripe, almost golden citrus too. Hmm, the fluidity of the last with more width. Still intense and juicy – another great thing. I think I have a tiny preference for the previous wine – but you can buy the whites here blind in 2021!

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