Dubreuil-Fontaine – 2021

3.1.2023billn

Christine Gruère-Dubreuil 2022 Domaine Dubreuil-FontaineTasted in Pernand with Christine Gruère-Dubreuil, 28 October 2022.

Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine Père et Fils
Rue Rameau
21420 Pernand-Vergelesses
Tel: +33 3 80 21 55 43
www.dubreuil-fontaine.com
More reports for Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine

Christine on 2022:
Yes very happy – but we are going to need that next year as well because there is no stock. But a good volume – not to 18 levels of volume but happy!

Christine on 2021:
In terms of bottling, not all the 21s are done yet – the whites were completed in July along with the Bourgogne Rouge but the rest were racked only about 2-3 weeks ago so not all the tank samples are bright. It was the kind of year where you talk about climate differences rather than warming. A cold and humid summer. We started picking Sept 17th the result being 50% losses in reds and more like 70% in the whites. So, overall for the domaine, minus 60% – mainly due to the frost, not much oïdium and some botrytis – unfortunately the 60% losses only tells half the story as the higher appellation wines were disproportionally affected – our aligoté, for instance, was a normal harvest! We had some concerns about sugar levels when doing our testing pre-harvest – but in the end, they were not bad, though we were never going to see grapes with sugar levels like in 2019 and 2020.

The wines…

Mainly very good to excellent wines at this stage of their elevage – a fine result for this very consistent domaine..

2021 Bourgogne Notre Dame de Bonne Esperance
Medium colour. Some open width of aroma, red fruit and some stoniness in evidence too. Broad, sweeping, vibrant – the structure present but never loud – really floral extras in this still structural finish – a wine to give 1-2 years of patience but it is very long for its level and will come around beautifully.

2021 Pernand-Vergelesses
Three parcels, Noirets, Boutières and one, Les Fichots is 1er cru
Also medium colour. Even more forward aromatics – a little cushioned – some undergrowth. Extra depth and more overtly delicious flavour – juicy, long, insinuatingly intense. This is excellent – yum!

2021 Aloxe-Corton
Fewer high tones but a broad depth of aroma here – lightly spiced. Supple, concentrated, maybe even a little more than the Pernand. Holding a strong, nicely vibrating finish. More subdued energy than the Pernand – but what wouldn’t have?! Also very tasty.

2021 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Vergelesses
Three different parcels.
A smaller nose but with a fine freshness and almost almond blossom. More direct and intense, fresher too than the Aloxe but silky and sweeping. Fine acid energy and holding very long – a more subdued character than the previous two wines – but definitely not a subdued wine.

2021 Pommard
Trois Follots and En Beouf
Wider, darker, more generous fruit, here with a floral accent – that’s nice. Supple but still a little muscle – I love this energy and mobile flavour. Broad finishing, slightly (cherry-) stony in the finish but this is a delicious wine – not overtly structural. That’s a very good villages…

2021 Volnay
As always, a high percentage of 1er Cru in this wine.
Broad, deep and fresh – darker fruit, also a hint of dark chocolate. Supple – broad, beautifully clarity and superbly intense in the finish, very modestly tannic but with no grain. That’s a great villages.

2021 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses
Some of the vines here touch on those from the Savigny Vergelesses.
Broader, lots of higher tones but less instantly inviting than the Volnay. Hmm, but here is an extra depth and complexity of flavour – a proper 1er cru – ooh that’s nice – but the aromatics are quite diffuse today.

​2019 Aloxe-Corton 1er Vercots
A nose with more breadth and weight – quieter top notes again – just faintly spiced. Hmm – but opposite to the nose this is airily flavoured – broad and deep too. Good texture and an insinuating and fine, long finish quite floral the finish too. A wine that just keeps getting better and better…

2021 Beaune 1er Montrevenots
A more compact yet fresh nose – fine berry and floral references slowly escaping from the glass. There is some width and also some direction to this – plenty of freshness – an open and easy wine to assimilate. A sneaky intensity to this finishing flavour too with some stony complexity. That’s delicious.

2021 Pommard 1er Les Epenots
Petit plus Grands Epenots
Airy and with a more guarded depth – needs time in the glass this one. Silky, direct, less ready than the others – plenty of oak visible in these flavours too – but also there is the wiry muscle of Epenots. I’d think nothing of waiting 10 years before approaching this wine – despite the sophistication of its structure. Probably excellent wine – it’s often Great here…

2021 Corton-Bressandes
More open with fruit energy – that’s a super introduction – adding some floral complexity too. Broad, cool fruited, mobile flavour palette – such a large-scaled finish and long – ooh that’s a great finish and I’d think nothing of drinking this before the Pommard.

2021 Corton Clos du Roi
Less full aromatics but still fine aromatics – a certain floral elegance in this width of aroma. The floral perfume is obvious in the flavours too – a more incisive finishing blend of acidity and floral-infused fruit – a wine with less impact than the Bressandes but more ethereal and elegant. Super.

Les Whites:
DIAM for the Bourgogne and the villages, cork for the 1ers. All bottled:

2021 Bourgogne Les Crenouilles
Bottled September
A broad and open nose – that’s got a good invitation. Mouth-filling, a little good structure and a forward mouthful of flavour – faintly metallic-edged today. But long and satisfying – very good Bourgogne.

2021 Pernand-Vergelesses
Finer if with less impact. Direct, insistent, edged with a little creamy barrel. The Bourgogne is easier than this today – but this acidity reminds also of the Pernand rouge.

2021 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Sous Frétile
The same oak as the flavour of the last but on a subtle level – plenty of aromatic freshness again – even faint florals. Certainly there’s more mouth-filling energy here – the same beam of acid energy as the last wine in a much more elegant and mouth-watering package. Broad and fine finishing

2021 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos Berthet
Round a more savoury nose to start but opening out wider. More butter, silkier texture – a coating that takes away the extra energy but still sustains a lovely finish.

2021 Corton-Charlemagne
Pernand side
Broader, a much more ‘together’ nose. Mouth-filling, melting, intense – I love this intensity – always a wine that ages brilliantly here – faint oak in the finish – but it will soon be a memory. Simply excellent stuff.

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