Tasted with Chloé Chevalier in Ladoix, 16 November 2022.
Domaine Chevalier Père et Fils
2 Grande Rue de Buisson
21550 Ladoix-Serrigny
Tel: +33 3 80 26 46 30
www.domaine-chevalier.fr
More reports with Domaine Chevalier Père et Fils
Chloé on 2022:
“Happy!”
Chloé on 2021:
“Much worse than the frost of 2016 where it was the low-lying vines that were hit – in 2021 it was practically all the vines that were affected. We averaged 14 hl/ha average in the whites – it’s close to 75% lower volume for us – so 2022 was clearly a relief after that. Not all the 2021s are bottled – the Bourgogne for example has only just finished its malo! Others are still waiting their time. The domaine historically kept stock back, since our grandfather, so it wouldn’t be short – though it’s true we’ve had a few low volume vintages in the recent years – but we still have some 2018 and 2019 to augment the sales volumes of 2021.”
The wines…
I left this domaine thinking I’d had a very special tasting – not all the wines were Grand Vins – but those that were not, were very nearly Grand Vins! The whites were impressive too. Purity and perfume were the hallmark of the wines here in 2021 – bravo – one of my top 3 (red wine) domaine visits in this tour!
2021 Bourgogne Champs de Pommier
A single parcel in the commune of Ladoix on the ‘other’ side of the route nationale.
Broad with lots of red-fruit energy. Hmm, but that’s calm, fine textured and growing in juiciness and finishing well – that’s a delicious wine.
2021 Ladoix
Multiple parcels – almost 4 hectares worth. This bottled end of August.
This nose offers a round, sweet, party floral invitation. Hmm – again – that’s lovely – open, a width of fine fruit, fine texture and a juicy accent to this pure still. Simply excellent wine…
A parcel selection that changes depending on the vintage. Also in bottle.
Narrower aromatics but with a little extra purity. Again, sweeping silky texture – this a more direct wine. Absolutely delicious and mouth-watering. Bravo. Just a beautiful villages.
The following wines are not yet bottled:
Below Clos des Orges on the map – but the situation is exactly the same it’s not ‘below’
Fresh, pure, a little more aromatic width here. More architecturally shaped – I like this structure – extra depth to the middle and finishing flavours too – you can easily see the jump to 1er cru. Another absolute success!
2021 Ladoix 1er La Clous d’Orge
Probably the only bottling of this in red, ‘there’s a white bottled by another producer I think.’
Less width but more depth today – slightly darker red fruit too. A hint of gas – another wine that majors on clarity, plenty of volume too – absolutely top with its juicy, pure fruit, finish – here with an extra floral finishing perfume!
2021 Côte de Nuits Villages
Vines in Corgoloin and Comblanchien – ‘here we already saw less frost than in Ladoix – but it’s anyway only a low volume from these vines’
Darker red fruit but again with this purity/clarity of expression – this is really a great range! Direct, cool fruit, the acidity more visible and intense but with just enough cushion to balance. Absolutely delicious and wide finishing. I might be tempted to drink this younger while the fat of the fruit still hides the acidity – but a beautiful wine again.
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin
From Crais and Etelios – 5 ouvrées of each
Again, purity of aroma – these wines are just so appealing – perfumed with flowers too – I really can’t see the 30% new oak! In the mouth too, a wine of clarity and good concentration – the faint tannin (hardy a grain or dryness) brings more velour to the texture. A small burst of beautifully floral finishing flavour – really a gorgeous, excellent villages!
2021 Aloxe-Corton
Three parts, largest in Valozières, totaling a little more than 1.5 ha
Some higher tones and a more direct aroma – slightly herby this one. In the mouth a bit more acidity, but still a fine clarity of fruit. More structural in the finish but open and clean – give this a bit more time.
2021 Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru
A big part of 82 yo vines in Valozières and a small part in Coutières the latter was once in the villages but decided to keep 1er which is why the domaine doesn’t still use the valozieres label – 35% new oak
A nose of depth and currently a little oak spice. Round, depth of flavour, good concentration and very good complexity. Long, flavours of weight, persistent width on the palate. To keep. But worth your patience…
2021 Corton-Grand Lolières
Hmm – a beautiful nose – very violet-perfumed and with a little generosity too. Broad, mouth-filling wine – beautifully mouth-watering and with a very modest accompaniment from the barrel – this is a wine with presence and fine depth of flavour. A fine Corton
Broader, fresher, with a little barrel spice or maybe it’s the small amount of whole cluster. Wow! Direct and mineral, growing juicily at the extremities – the finish is grandiose and gorgeous. Whilst I will wait for the nose to express itself a little more the rest of this wine already Grand Vin!
Les Blancs:
This bottled. A single parcel in Pres Charmots. All elevage in older barrels.
Broad and fresh – with faint but fine citrus. Open, pure, mouth-watering wine. Juicy in the middle and finishing flavours. Simply a delicious wine until the finish – it’s not so simple here – this is broad and beautiful. That’s a top aligoté.
2021 Ladoix
Multiple parcels – about 4! This also bottled
Less incisive but wider aromas – a cushioned breadth of citrus here. Open and pure – like all the 21s in this cellar – with lovely shape and again clarity of flavour. A small finishing wave of delicious flavour too. Not a wine of overt exuberance but one of calm but absolute deliciousness!
2021 Ladoix 1er Les Grechons
Long lines of vines, the bottom with deep soil, the top with white and thin soil – very different. 30% new oak…
A deeper nose, faint oak-spice. Sleek, lovely shape – long direct flavour – growing concentration. I like this very much – excellent – very yum!
2021 Corton-Charlemagne
Rognets – exchanged for a horse – 0.5 ha. 40% new oak – this and the last not yet bottled.
Hmm – clean, vibrant, pure mineral – the nose directly announces itself. Rounder, layered flavour, slightly oaked – the oak becoming more obvious towards the finish. Long, faint tannin. Today I prefer the Grechons.