Tasted in Volnay with Sarah Glantenay, 17 October 2022.
Domaine Georges Glantenay & Fils
3 Rue de la Barre
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 82
www.domaineglantenay.com
More reports for Domaine Georges Glantenay.
Sarah & Guillaume on 2022:
Very happy with this year – and more, if not massively more than the 25-30 hl/ha that we had in 2021 when we had the slowest speed on the triage table and had a dozen doing triage – vs 2022 when we only needed 4 people.
Sarah & Guillaume on 2021:
“A very small vintage in 2021 – only 40% of a normal vintage for us. Happy with the cleanliness of the grapes though – it made such a big difference in 21 and allowed purity and a nice terroir impression”
The wines…
The style here is chiselled and with fine acidity – I really think that the longer you wait the more you will be rewarded – up to a point. But 5-10 years for any of these will be completely fine as a starting point. Some great whites this vintage too.
Destemmed like all at this address – about half a harvest here. Vines in Pommard and Volnay, the latter dominant – about 70%
Hmm, perfumed depth and pure red fruit. Silky, supple – there’s actually some concentration here but hyper-elegant wine – bravo!
2021 Volnay
1.8 hectares worth from 8 different parcels in this vintage.
A little more serious aromatics, more intent, growing in depth again. The structure is more visible but mouthwatering and almost juicy in style with a little chalkiness to this finish. More serious and for keeping a couple of years before.
2021 Volnay Vieilles-Vignes
60-years-old and beyond for the vine age here vs 30-60-years-old for the previous wine. This time from 4 parcels.
Ooh – now that has some direction and purity of slightly darker fruit. Some gas here but wider and more insistent flavour – and an impressive step up in quality for my palate. I’d give this 2-3 years in the cellar too, but I really like this sculpted, precise style.
2021 Pommard
Just half a hectare but ‘good old vines.’
Wider, slightly wilder, bramble fruit here – slowly becoming more perfumed too. More mouth-filling and mouth-watering. Like the nose with darker fruit – finishing like all, so far, with a faintly chalky tannin. Love the finishing precision – slightly mineral.
Early harvesting area in the centre of Volnay – not much depth of soil and some drying of the grapes here in the last two vintages. ‘It worked well here in 21 – it’s an area where the maturity gets blocked quite easily in hot dry vintages.’
Violets suffuse the perfume here – not a massive nose but a big invitation. Fills the mouth and has lots of sparkly complexity, yet has an inner calm versus the previous wines. The acidity is quite intense – but makes me want to take another sip. Very fine – and if the acidity doesn’t come more to the fore I think this could be a great Volnay!
2021 Volnay 1er La Robardelle
Always in the family but not in the range as was sold as grapes under a contract – this the first vintage to be bottled here now. 2 different types of soil in this parcel – the latter with more depth and much more clay in the soil.
Also perfumed but with more cushioned fruit to the fore. Round, supple with a subtle tannin. Elegant, super-tasty – this is far too easy to drink – easily the most accessible and generous wine yet – you could enjoy this today. Big finishing, slightly spiced in the finish – so different to the Roncerets…
2021 Volnay 1er Les Brouillards
A different flower – wide, maybe a little extra minerality on the nose. Energy, faint CO2, darker fruit. Concentrated and creamy finishing – beautifully structured. I love that finish!
2021 Volnay 1er Santenots
0.4 hectares from Dessous
Dark fruit, with a lovely vibration of aroma. Extra mouth-filling, redder fruit and extra acid energy again. Creamy again but with much redder fruit – love this finish of faint chalky tannin and fine acid-red fruit. A wine of finesse despite its intensity.
2021 Pommard 1er Les Combes Dessus
First vintage for this was 2015. Deep, almost black soil in places, with plenty of clay.
A little narrower nose but with lots of red-fruit energy. Broad, silky, but super shape and depth – this fruit is far too easy and delicious – held in check with super acidity. Holding very long in the finish. Absolutely excellent wine!
2021 Pommard 1er Rugiens Hautes
From the higher part of Rugiens.
A little less colour. Much fresher, a different style of complexity, more mineral. Broad, vibrant, a palette of flavour that’s humming with complexity. Clean, pure, layered finishing – waves of fine flavour. Simply excellent again.
2021 Chambolle-Musigny
First vintage was 2003 but the vines came from grandmother’s side of the family – 3 different parcels. ‘At the same stage as the Volnays I find the Chambolles a little less expressive but they were not harder to work and harvest than in Volnay.’
A deeper, nicely vibrant and mineral style of aroma. A different style – broad, silky, extra depth and sucrosity – a slight roundness – dark fruit again. Super finishing intensity – almost stony in the finish. I would also keep this for 2-3 years before opening – I think it will also be an excellent villages!
Vinified in a barrel – ‘vinification integrale’
Slightly more modest colour. Intensely floral – peony – and growing in depth too. A little gas, but the depth of captivating flavour is special. Bravo! Creamy, perhaps a hint of barrel here but this is a beauty!
Les Whites:
A single parcel on terres-blanches in Volnay.
A warm citrus but still with a hint of structure. In the mouth it’s structural too – and just so juicy! Ooh – simply a delicious wine. Intense, fresh, dynamic and deliciously long-lasting. Great Bourgogne!
2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay Lameroses
From the bottom of Meursault – deep soil with lots of (sticky!) clay. Like the last, elevage in foudre.
More direct, softer, pure chardonnay citrus. Some gas here. Mouth-filling and clean, lovely finishing intensity too. Hmm – at least excellent Bourgogne!
2021 Meursault Les Santenots
Villages area here.
Here a little extra concentration and buttered reduction. Broad, lovely texture, a nicely vibrant, bubbling flavour profile. A modest extra generosity after the Bourgognes but never heavy finishing. Give it a little time – it could be excellent.
The last vineyard bought by parents in 2008 – was pinot but it’s high on the hill and stony so decided to replant a part to chardonnay and it was so good (in 2012) they replaced the rest with chardonnay too.
A similar reduction to the previous wine, faintly white flower blossom too. Oof – direct, cool fruit, mineral – ooh that’s so good. Really a great wine – intense, mouth-watering. Stony, roast nuts – what a great finish!