Tasted in Volnay with Etienne Chaix, 27 September 2021.
Domaine Joseph Voillot
Place de l’Église
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 62 27
www.joseph-voillot.com
More reports for Domaine Joseph Voillot
Etienne on 2022:
“Very happy at this stage with 2022 – 17 August we had 16mm of rain that helped to keep the balance of the wines in this year – there is also some volume so that can’t be bad after the small vintages of the last few years!”
Etienne on 2021:
“Of the 2021s, just the Bourgogne was bottled in July, so far. We had 12.5° for the Bourgogne, roughly 13° for the 1ers, despite some frost, very rainy weather and some maladies – but the last 4 weeks or so before the harvest you could say saved the vintage as it meant that the maladies couldn’t take hold but the heat did still penalize the volume. Still, the wines that I have I couldn’t have dared to wish for the quality I see right now.”
The wines…
Brilliant – such decadently perfumed wines – bravo! One of my top-3 2021 domaines for reds.
The wines are most likely to be bottled by the end of the year, certainly the start of 2023…
3 parcels, 2 on the border – just over – between Volnay and Meursault and the third in Volnay opposite the restaurant Auberge des Vignes.
Pure, beautiful red fruit – that’s an invitation. Supple, silky but unlike some 21s generous too. In the context of this vintage it’s a great success this wine – bravo!
2021 Volnay Vieilles-Vignes
Normally, from 6 different parcels; mainly Grand and Petits Poisots, Gigotte, Pacquiers and Famines.
Not quite as open as the last but this nose has fine clarity and a hint darker colour to the fruit – in this case faintly floral too. Hmm – more acid intensity here – more juiciness but also an extra level of perfume in the flavours. I’d let this settle a little – but no shame to drink the first few bottles from your case – really very good and if it tames a little – excellent!
2021 Pommard Vieilles-Vignes
Normally from Cras, Saucilles, Vaumauriens and Poisot.
Almost sparkly, pure slightly darker, certainly wider impression to the fruit aromas – here with violets. The level of acidity is similar to the Volnay except a little softer. The violet-accented fruit and a little of the Bourgogne richness sing through the middle of this wine. Really excellent already!
2021 Beaune 1er Coucherias
A little rounder and redder but still with a lovely floral component. Wide, less attack from the acidity with this rounder wine. Supple, floral-inflected flavour – what a delicious wine!
2021 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets
A less plump nose, more direct yet with the similar fruit and flowers perfume of the previous wines. Wide, melting its flavour over the palate – clearly showing an extra mineral dimension in the width of the middle and finishing flavours. Structural but very well covered structure – and again – classically perfumed Volnay.
2021 Volnay 1er Cru Champans
A deeper width of perfume with this wine. Mouth-filling, energetic flavour – plenty of structure like the Fremiets but well-covered by this flavour. Beautiful flavour – very well balanced but clearly still to wait for – such great class here.
Planted in 1982.
More effusive aroma – suggesting a little CO2 – but still perfumed and so pure. Extra intensity – energy and complexity – less overt structure as the Champan but today showing more complexity. Proper Caillerets – bravo!
2021 Pommard 1er Clos Micault
Old vines!
More airy – a base with some mineral aspects but still perfumed in the top notes. More direct. Modestly more structural – architectural rather than of tannin. But waves of beautiful perfumed fruit flavour spread across the palate in the finish. The acidity in all these wines begging you to take on your next sip…
From Petits Epenots, in the last part before Beaune Epenottes, below Pommard Boucherottes.
Perfumed and incisive – like all here, almost decadently perfumed. Here more direct, mouthwatering even more architecturally structured. Long and young and great.
Here’s the most open yet least focused of the noses – perhaps some CO2 destabilising things a little here. Beautifully melting flavour, almost fluid in texture and flavour – cool fruit. Clearly the least ready but potentially great wine.
Aromatically from another world; darker fruit, focused and attractive with a frame of more spiced complexity. Wider, more melting, more intense but with a cushioning that would allow me to enjoy a glass or two today! Mineral, melting beautifully perfumed flavour. Holding with fine persistence!