Tasted with Claudie in Demigny, 29 November 2022.
Domaine Claudie Jobard
5 route de Beaune
71150, Demigny
Tel : +33 (0)3 85 49 46 81
www.domaineclaudiejobard.fr
Claudie on 2022:
“Yes happy with 22 – I could fill the cellar a little – they ferment quickly and malos seem fast too.”
Claudie on 2021:
“In 2021 there are really good things but it was a difficult vintage in the vines for the whole season – and it didn’t stop in the cuvérie – the alcoholic fermentations were slow and some of the malos didn’t want to start – fortunately all were done in July. They didn’t taste all that well for many months in elevage too but I’m happy now – the whites are ready to bottle and will be started in a couple of weeks. I’ve never seen so little volume – also not in 2016. The vines were exploited by my grandfather and he has all the notes since 51 – and it was never so low – between 60-80% down in the whites and not much better in the reds – it’s 25% of a normal harvest – almost traumatising. Yet in 2022 I noted straight away we didn’t have any extra grapes – you know, the extra that you tend to get after a year frost – I think that in some parts the frost in the whites was almost too much – it was so bad. I have some serenity though because, overall, 22 wasn’t too bad for volume. In elevage I always found the tannins austere – I even racked, which I don’t often do – but only after the malos were done did I start to find the wines interesting and less austere or meagre.”
The wines
A couple of early reds with some signs of greenery, otherwise a fine range; the Charmots – as usual – a wine to search out!
2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Milliane
The cuvée name is the diminutive of Claudie’s grandmother’s name – 4 parcels from around Pommard blended for this – vines from 40-100 years old. But only two barrels instead of the usual 10-12…
Ther’s a little greenery here – pyrazines but tending to floral too. Broad and silky – red fruit the floral-pyrazine gentian flowers in evidence in the flavours too. Just a faint rub of tannin in the finishing flavours. Very good wine, indeed if you’re insensitive to pyrazine it’s an excellent Bourgogne.
2021 Rully La Chaume
2.5 ha planted by father with a mix of many clones and different styles of vineyard management – but doing a little less ground cover in recent vintages as it’s been too much competition for water in the dry years – no wc used in general in 21.
Rather vibrant, wide and very red fruited – to bottle at the end of the year. More direct but no less silky than the Bourgogne – fine intensity – only a suggestion of the green of the previous – tending to zero. Long and fine – just a hint of finishing, tannic, dryness. Very good again…
2021 Pommard
All vinified together – Vaumuriens, Combottes, Buoef – between 70-90-year-old vines.
Deeper, redder, not quite ready this nose. Broad and red – alive with energy – it needs more elevage but I think this could be excellent – broad and fine finishing!
2021 Beaune 1er Epenottes
Always the first parcel to be ready at the domaine
A similar style of nose to the last but not in shape – here’s more width and a little darker fruit – becoming finer with air. Pure, direct fruit but broadening in mouth-watering style. A hint of finishing tannin but also a fine clarity of fruit – clearly this will be an excellent wine.
More than 100-year-old vines – we lost some of the vines when we converted to organic as a lot of the roots were close to the surface – we don’t use a tractor – rather a horse but have replaced with the same masalle selection as it’s the history of the domaine.
Plenty of colour in this. The wine hasn’t been long sulfured and you can tell – it’s not a finished perfume today – some firework-style reduction. Mouth-filling, supple, a couple of mm of cushion here – super texture and depth of flavour. Always a wine worth searching out – bravo!
Les Whites:
2021 Claudie Jobard, Rully Montagne La Folie (Blanc)
From a 2.45-hectare plot of 45-year-old vines. Will be bottled in a month. All barrel elevage, 15% new. Lots of stones, worked organically – started an official conversion to organic in 2019 – the vines in the direction of Chagny.
Hmm – a forward and attractive nose, round and of ripe citrus and fainter flowers. Hmm – almost a hint of the green in the first flavours but it’s lost in the generosity of the middle and finishing flavours. Some oak here too though it’s mainly a proportion of 1-year-old barrels so slightly creamy but finishes quite deliciously.
2021 Rully En Villerange Blanc
Direction Mercurey
Breadth, faintly creamy with round citrus aromas again. Super in the mouth – there’s volume, indeed scale to this wine – open but still with a little generosity. Really delicious and almost juicy finishing. Super.
2021 Montgany 1er Madeleine
Buy the must for many years here.
Really floral and really pure – that’s a great invitation. Mouth-filling, elegant but still with lots of energy. Almost framed by a little tannin – the middle and finishing flavours are full of citrus complexity. That’s a simply excellent wine and a great buy – just a delicious wine.