Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Boris Champy and Thierry Brouin, 13 November 2017.
Société du Domaine des Lambrays
31, rue Basse
Tel: +33 3 80 51 84 33
Thierry and Boris on 2017:
“We are really happy with out 2017 harvest. We started harvesting the 3rd September, finishing on the 12th – we stopped when the rain started! We had a good yield in both reds and whites – 42 hl/ha in the reds and used 80% whole-clusters for the ‘Clos.’ The villages was destemmed. We made a rosé from the less ripe grapes of the ‘Clos’ but still had 11.5 degrees – enough to be classed as grand cru, if there was such an appellation!”
Thierry on 2016:
2016 is a gifted vintage, it’s not just big, it’s really good too – it’s also the largest vintage here since 1999. Probably we will drink 2016 before 2015, but it’s already dangerously drinkable! In 2016 we had no frost in the ‘Clos,’ just a little in the villages. Good yields but not too much, we don’t complain as it was not the same in Chambolle or Chambertin.
France accounts for about 40% of the domaine’s production.
A couple of backward wines and some simply top class wines – both colours. A flying start for Boris and a great sign-off from Thierry…
2016 Morey St.Denis
20% from the bottom slopes the rest high above the Clos in Riotte. Elevage in a revolving vat. Destemmed, 30% oak, racked in August and bottled three weeks ago.
A nice colour, not too deep. Almost a cushioned nose, a little tight from the bottling but a fine soft red fruit behind. Ooh, supple, round just a slowly growing texture of mild tannin, pretty fruit with a little bitterness right in the finish – for the label, this is really excellent. Modest energy but tasty, tasty wine.
2016 Morey St.Denis 1er Les Loups
Not bottled, 50% wc, 30% oak
More open, a width of pretty rose petal florals from the whole clusters. A little more supple, more line and more energy too. The flavour profile is different due to the whole clusters. Delicious but you should have more patience with this one.
The Clos uses 50% oak, 85% whole-cluster.
An extra aromatic energy here, again the rose perfume from the stems, here intertwined with a little oak. Wider, with a lovely energy, layered in the middle and with a lovely mouth-watering, lingering flavour. This is really gorgeous, and I’d even think about drinking it before the 1er cru… top!
And Les Blancs:
2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Folatières
A fresh and attractive nose with very fine and engaging top notes. Round, supple, growing width, just a couple of millimetres of flesh, lingering, absolutely delicious. Long, long, long…
‘Possibly the only reason that this isn’t grand cru is that it was planted with pinot at the time of the appellation.’
Ooh, wow, this is vibrant and wonderfully engaging. More direct, like all the wines here, supple over the palate, melting, melting flavour. And such tenacity of finish. Bravo – really a great wine.