Tasted in Beaune with David Croix, 07 November, 2017.
Domaine des Croix
2 Rue Colbert
Tel: +33 3 80 22 41 81
David Croix on 2017:
“In 2017 we went in every vineyard to do some leaf plucking, and where we thought we should, we dropped some clusters too. Given the balance and the sugars, I’m glad that I did. Despite that, in Beaune 1er Cru Cent Vignes there was still maybe about 5 hl/ha more yield than I would have liked – of-course a level that was still allowed – but I anyway decided to make a saignée, and will made a rosé from the saignée juice.”
David Croix on 2016:
“Yes, of-course happy with the fruit, but the average yield for the domaine is only 7 hl/ha. A number of cuvées just don’t exist in 2016.”
It’s true, David had warned me ahead of time – “It won’t be a very long tasting – I’ve only got 4 reds this year!” He had 9 in 2015…
David has quite large cellars, so when you see the number of barrels of 2016 versus 2017, it’s a sombre impression. I have the impression that the Beaune 1er Cru blend is almost too concentrated a wine to every have lift or energy – let us see how that plays out, but the rest (and that’s not many!) are either super or simply grand vins – fabulous.
2016 Beaune 1er Cru
A blend of Teurons, Tuvillains, Cent Vignes and Grèves. Racked 1 month previously – a little less than 2 ha of vines that delivered only 4 barrels.
A big, encompassing nose of silky fruit. Big, intense, crystalline flavours, almost too concentrated in the finish. This is not the most energetic wine I’ve tasted but what a wine! – Return for a progress report in 20 years!
2016 Beaune 1er Bressandes
So deep, dark fruited faintly animal but also the depth comes from a little reduction. Hmm, this has a more discernible energy, perhaps due to less concentration – though we’re clearly splitting hairs! Super, super wine
A cool area, with shallow topsoil closer to Pommard.
Ooh, gorgeous, beautiful nose, faintly floral. Ooh, this is so direct of line, mineral, concentrated, complex. To wait for, definitely drink the Bressandes before. But great wine!
There is no Corton Vigne au Saint – it was, like the Savigny and Aloxe parcels, completely frosted.
Plenty of volume – it’s really deep but not due to reduction this time. The nose just getting better and better. Full, layered, more muscle, a little easier despite more structure vs the Pertuisots. Great wine again…
Yields were actually okay here. Racked in September, into tank with its lees. It’s not moved since then.
Round in the mouth, slowly growing intensity, open, malleable, long, delicious. I think it would show even better if it was cooler but it’s still very fine.