Tasted in Chambolle-Musigny with François Millet, 13 November, 2017.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
7 Rue Sainte-Barbe
Tel: +33 03 80 62 86 25
François on 2017:
At least there will be more wine in 2017! And it looks to be interesting.
François on 2016:
“At the domaine in 2016 we lost 70% to the frost – there was no favouring of villages or Musigny, they were equally frosted. I’ve never seen such a small production since I came here in 1985. In 1991 we had frost and hail – 60% damage. In 1998 frost and sunburn. In 1981 we were also frosted – Easter Sunday night. But from the records, 2016 is the lowest harvest, even 1945 was well-known for frost but that was more downslope than in the Musigny. Our average production of white is 5 casks, fortunately we still had three in 2016.
“So the frost meant that we had a mix of first and secondary buds, the latter three weeks later – so it was very complicated. The summer was quite dry – a good summer – so the time-gap between the buds was minimised and we picked from September 24 – it was ripe and we had no problems. Fortunately we were only punished once – we don’t have much but what we have is good!
“Given the luminous clarity, the transparency, it was a vintage to be cautious with vinification – nothing aggressive as it would certainly show – a vintage where you can’t cheat. We see fine energy, usually with this level of ripeness you move to the dark fruits but we are still very red and floral. But the volume means that it’s a shame that many people will not have the chance to discover far from sight far from the heart…”
Beautiful wines, despite such a cut in the volume that they work with.
Just Paulottes higher up was lost completely, an explanation could be the Combe, but nobody really knows. Normally 15% new oak but none this vintage as there are only 3 barrels vs 12-15 normally…
A good depth of aroma with pretty and precise fruit. On the palate this has muscle, depth, and a very fine melting flavour – a wine of personality. Long faintly accented with barrique but delicious.
2016 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Hmm, higher toned and even more floral, a rose aroma – “A spring red rose, the 2015 was the summer rose” says François. Lots of red fruits. Pomegranate (François correctly says) and raspberry – just a lovely mix of redder fruit than we have seen for a while. This wine is more direct, more structured, certainly a little more muscled, but they are not being flexed. A hint of mid-palate and finishing bitters. The last drops on the glass have captivating floral notes. Fine length.
Only 4 barrels so no new oak – normally its 20%, ‘I was conscious not to damage the clarity.’
A deeper colour it seems. Less open above, but captivating aromas below – such depth. Ooh, here is an extra width of flavour, despite its fresher and more direct personality – that is a really great combination! This is really striking wine. There is more muscle today than sensuality but this wine has a beautiful smile. Bravo!
Here equally damaged, but further towards Morey they had virtually no damage.
Not the most overt nose, but the depth and perfume is palpable. Volume in the mouth, freshness and energy – this is great Bonnes-Mares, layers of flavour expanding over the palate onward into the finish – just a bravura performance!
A width to the depth of aroma here, starting tighter above, but with a pure raspberry. Hmm, like the Bonnes-Mares, this is a wine of freshness, a little more overt depth of tannin, here is volume of flavour, mouth-watering flavour – it encompasses everything. I find a little more drive, or direction to the Bonnes-Mares, but this has more volume and stability. Beautiful minerality in the wonderful finish…