Tasted in Nuits St.Georges with Gilles Remoriquet, 22 November 2017.
Domaine Henri et Gilles Remoriquet
25 Rue de Charmois
Tel: +33 3 80 61 24 84
Gilles Remoriquet on 2017:
“2017 went very well though it started with a lot of frost risk – the burning of the straw was actually quite effective – perhaps – it wasn’t banned, but wasn’t allowed either – very French – the police did fly a helicopter and took photos, though probably more to keep a check that the autoroute wasn’t getting foggy! The early part of the year had a good amount of rain – there was some risk of mildew, but we made fewer treatments than in 2016 – in fact the half. It was dry in the late summer and we could see a couple of plots that seemed a little blocked – in fact I didn’t harvest some small plots because of that. The volume wasn’t excessive, we were always below the limits. The fermentations went fine, perhaps faster than in 2016, but we like to make a long elevage…”
Gilles Remoriquet on 2016:
“2016 was a little like a catastrophe – we were less 60% wine – some parcels closer to -80%. But it was a little balanced by normal yields in Vosne. But we’d rather have frost than hail, the former increasing concentration but without usually impacting the quality. Okay we could have done without the mildew that followed! It was quite wet at the start of the year, some of the tractors couldn’t get in or probably out of the vines so we had to use atomisers on backpacks!”
18 months of elevage here. The last months spent in tank, some as long as 20 months. Normally 20-25% new barrels for the 1er crus. After racking they go into tank or older barrels with their fine lees.
A more than workmanlike selection of wines here, most just showing a little tight at this stage of their elevage. There is much to enjoy here.
2016 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits
Deep, the nose a little sweet, slightly powdery. Very silky, a bright coulis fruit – very nice fruit. A little mid-palate structure. Long, an accent of flowers, perhaps a little metallic but good concentration here – wait 2 years and retry…
2016 Nuits St.Georges
Mainly from 3 parcels plus a tiny part of a 4th.
A bright and deep red fruit again – lovely line and with very fine texture. This slides over the palate really far too easily. Lovely freshness and fine clarity of flavour even for the vintage, impressive.
2016 Nuits St.Georges Les Allots
Northern side towards Vosne, with a high proportion of vines planted in 1944
A vibrant and bright fruit again. Fresher, of line again, very fine tannin and nothing astringent. Fresh, bright and a little floral finishing. Very fine.
2016 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Damodes
Overlooking the plain of Vosne
A nose, with a little floral impression but is rather tight. Nice weight on the palate, a richness of both texture and flavour. Just a little tight here too I think, but floral, and fine texture. Worth a little patience I think.
2016 Nuits St.Georges 1er Bousselots
More clay here, north side though nearer Nuits – under Thorey.
Also tight but with intent and weight below, faintly floral quite glossy. Really a wine of freshness and width – more structural and tannic, slowly melting slightly mineral cool fruit. Prettier and more delicate finishing flavours. This is very yum here.
2016 Nuits St.Georges 1er Rue de Chaux
4 or 5 owners here
‘The fruit is very characteristic if this address in 2015’, dark red, pure but fresh. Very direct, cool fruit but finer tannin than the Bousselots, long, long wine, with a tightness of flavour, only grudgingly releasing the goods. A pretty and enjoyable burst of finishing flavour. Here its very tasty…
2016 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les St.Georges
Next to the Les Didiers of the Hospices, Gilles says that’s why it’s more elegant than most of the the other producer’s LSGs – it’s not the same soil. ‘I could vinify to make it more tannic but then I’m sure I would lose the balance that I have…’
Also a little tight but still more volume, more red-fruited volume, than the previous wines. Really a fine freshness to all the wines so far – this slowly grows over the palate with a suggestion of minerality and always a very fine texture – there are no obviously Nuits tannins here. Just a very fine but young wine.
Here a nose with a little more aromatic volume, some floral references here too. Super silky and a little extra richness of flavour – this is really the class of the tasting today, with silky structure and depth of fine flavour. This is super-fine, super-delicious wine. Bravo!