Tasted with Guillaume d’Angerville in Volnay, 09 November 2016.
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville
Rue de Mont
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 75
Guillaume on 2017:
“Since 2011 there have been plenty of disasters, but we managed a volume that was interesting but at the same time with wines that present really well. We have good colours and aromas – it’s a great indication. Being Bio helps us to harvest early, but also with a fine maturity… in fact the quantity was so high in 2017 that for the first time in many years there were a few barrels that didn’t fit in the cellar!”
Guillaume on 2016:
“2016 remains a nightmare from the perspective of commercialisation – for example how can I divide my allocations by 10 for the Meursault? – I lost 90% to the frost. Totally one-third of our production was lost. The reds are scarce but this time we can’t blame hail for 2016! The last time we had a 2016 was in 1981. It’s amazing how neatly defined the border is between what the frost hit and what it did not hit. Everything below a certain altitude was lost – Clos des Angles for example – there is no cuvée. We also lost in our Bourgognes – Passetoutgrains was also 90% lost.
“What was not frosted was in great shape and the vinifications were pretty standard – nothing comes to mind that we did differently versus, for instance, 2015. My father told me that his father’s concept was not to brutalise the fruit – and that was a crazy concept in those days – so as far as I know, there’s been no pigeage here since at least 1905! Our approach is the equivalent of brewing tea – the grapes are destemmed and there are no punchdowns. The 2016s were racked after their malos at the end of July, and are untouched since then.
“The wines are spectacularly different style to 2015, but I have no preference – I’m eclectic in my tastes. I think the common thread is the purity that we have in the wines. Pure fruit and attack with interesting aromatics.”
A different vintage, same result – one of the top domaines.
2016 Volnay 1er Cru
Containing Pitures, Mitans, sometimes young vines but not this vintage, but this year what remained from the Clos des Angles
Wide, plenty of ripe depth – supple, mineral expanding fresh fruit – crunchy fruit with lots of length, vibrant mineral length
2016 Volnay 1er Fremiets
A sizzling aromatic width, less overt depth. More overt freshness and volume with super complexity. There’s plenty of finishing salinity too – delicious.
This is deep, deep, deep – I’ve the impression of a hint of reduction. A big, vibrant nose – again – a little extra relaxation of texture – melting over the palate and a beautifully focused and intense fruit. Wow, wow, wow…
2016 Volnay 1er Taillepieds
A rounder nose, that still goes deep. Supple, a little extra depth to the texture – almost an orange flesh to the fruit flavour before slowly fading. A more upfront wine, before fading in a more subtle style to the Caillerets – for instance…
A similar weight of aroma as the Taillepieds, starting a little more diffuse but slowly the fruit takes on a great focus. Wide, vibrant fruit and acidity – really invigorating wine – capturing both freshness and energy but with no sharp points.
Like the other wines a vibrant nose – very faintly floral too. Supple, with waves of extending flavour. Wide, saline, beautifully textured – possibly the complexity is an extra step but I don’t see a massive leap like in some vintages – all have such a great level.
1999 Volnay 1er Clos des Ducs
Ooh – some complexity of maturity, of florals too. Full, energetic, complex. Still tannic. What a baby. The nose just keeps evolving and evolving…