Tasted with David Moreau in Santenay, 13 December 2017.
Domaine David Moreau
4 rue de la Bussière
Tel: +33 3 80 20 61 79
David on 2017:
“The 2017 harvest was very proper. No hydric stress in Santenay, so no blockage of maturity, in fact the maturity came quite fast. It was a 02 September start for the whites, the same as in 2015, then 3 days later for reds – also the same as in 2015. Maybe it will be more classic and less flamboyant than those 2015s. The average yield was above 40 hl/ha for the reds – so good – a little less as there was less juice in the whites. The wines have started supple but needed time for the substance – the structure and depth. Nothing has been sulfured and some malos are already done.”
David on 2016:
“The 2016 Spring was a bit scary as there was lots of humidity. But we didn’t do anything different. Santenay, just the bottom near Chassagne was strongly frosted. But we had great weather for three months, ending with a little hydric stress – the 60mm rain we got in September that fixed that, but some areas still lost most of their leaves. There was certainly some mildew pressure and probably lost about 15% to that. The wines are relatively classic. All the 2016s except the Bourgogne Aligoté are in bulk since October.”
What a simply brilliant cellar in 2016 – one of the best for consistency too – bravo David!
2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
A single parcel, from the hillside.
A very fine, modest intensity, but freshly floral nose. Ohh, fresh, direct, growing in intensity – tons of classic flavour here that will need time to relax. Long, mineral finishing with a great length!
From the bottom of the hill, this could also have a Santenay label. About 50 year-old vines, quite well draining, part guyot-pousard pruned. 10-15% new oak.
A little more depth and here a fine complexity of aroma too. Supple, more depth plenty of fresh salinity and fine depth of flavour. This is really great – super finishing – bravo!
Two parcels, 45% 1er Clos Roussot, some wc in this one, ‘just selected so 10-20%’
More depth of colour. A subtle nose, whilst there’s depth it’s not giving much away. Hmm, really more width, a hint more tannin but really with a fine velvet texture and no astringence. Really a bright, complex wine, saline again in the finish. More to wait for here.
A new cuvée, planted originally by David’s grand-father – a big lieu-dit, this from the hillside. ‘It resembles Santenay Clos des Mouches and was sold to the négoce. For a long time it was very vigorous but now I’m happy with the results.
Hmm, a nice sweet floral here, deep, not so wide. Bright, floral, airy – oh now that’s a delicious wine! The same trademark complexity and salinity in the finish as the last wine, but with really more elegance! I love this!
Two parcels, one in Les Cornières (mainly) and one smaller one in Les Charmes – lots of millerandes in these parcels. 20% wc.
Deep colour. A subtle nose, very faintly spiced and clean. More volume and dimension of flavour in the mouth – more weight and depth of flavour too. This wine has been emblematic of David’s work at the domain for a long time – just a little finer and sweeter but the same character as the last.
Hmm, this has a silkier nose suggesting great depth. Fresher, more structured, but very fine volume and transparency here. Mid and finishing mineral complexity with a more open concentration – much more the wait for than the last two. This will be super!
This, the second vintage with David’s label, a plot on marne with clay.
Like the last, deep colour. A nice dark complex and invigorating nose – quite tight but it’s all in there. Voluptuous in the mouth yet fresh and finely structured. Big yet compact, delicious great wine – encore bravo!
Between Hâtes and Gravières but here is a little red clay before the hard limestone.
Less deep colour. Much redder fruit, wide and airy – attractive. Ooh delicious – direct, fresh, like les Hâtes with a little more intensity – I love this style!
2016 Bourgogne Aligoté
Entry of Santenay, planted end of 1990s deep soul but good vigour. 80% less due to the frost – in bottle 2 months.
Hmm this has a lovely energetic core almost with a twist of mint. Wide, quite good energy. A fine intensity, faintly saline. Super clean and mouth-watering finish. A wine to enjoy at the table, no facile extra sweetness here – super!
In tank since begining of September, to bottle in March. ‘Quite a sunny climat, so work with the lees but no new oak to make sure that it finds its freshness.’
Deep, vibrant, a little sherbet. Ooh – volume, and mineral freshness – like the last, no facile extra sweetness – great!
2016 Meursault Les Pellans
Bottom of the hill bellow Charmes, lots of virus so tiny grapes
Some tightness with a little toasty reduction. Bright, volume, fresh again, the mid-palate finally relaxing to offer some Meursault flavour – taut, nervous, delicious wine!