Tasted in Maligny with Clémentine Vorcoret, 24 January 2023.
Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret
9 Chemin de Beaune
89800 Maligny
Tel; +33 3 86 47 51 60
www.chablis-yvon-vocoret.com
More reports with Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret
Yvon on 2022 & 2021:
“We are very happy with 2022 and it was a good volume. Of course, 2021 was a year that was more complicated – for sure! But there are lots of good surprises in the wines. Compared to some areas, Maligny has done reasonably well in terms of volumes – here we had about 45-48 hl/ha so a bit more than three-quarters of a normal vintage so we can be very happy. We have a bit more Fourchaume in stock, for instance, but most of the 2021 wines are pretty much sold out.”
The wines…
It really is a pleasure to taste here each year. There are multiple great wines that are worth a special search – and even those that are not ‘great’ are simply excellent!
NDtec corks and inert atmosphere bottling:
2021 Petit Chablis
All Maligny – the domaine just has 0.3 ha in Villy. The Portlandian limestone here has much bigger fossilised mussels vs the tiny shellfish that are classic in the Kimmerigian. This is the only wine in their range with a technical ‘seal’
A broad and energetic invitation – lots of citrus energy here. Width and intensity here too – like the nose there’s some addictive citrus energy to this wine – long, direct and mouthwatering in the finish. Lovely!
2021 Chablis
A breadth of aroma again – here with a little extra minerality to add to the citrus perfume. Sleeker and wider – clearly an extra minerality here too – super citrus and a fine texture – this is simply an excellent wine – long and direct with fine texture.
This is the oaked cuvée
There are some barrel notes here but also some extra floral perfume. Less width but more bubbling complexity of flavour. The oak is present in the middle flavours but this is so precise and beautifully acidulated – never to excess. Of course, I’d be waiting 2+ years for the oak flavours and aromas to fade but here’s a great villages!
2021 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
We lost a little in Fourchaume in 2021 but there’s aspersion here so it wasn’t too bad – it didn’t help when the water-pump broke though!
Finer, more airy, more precise – a top aroma – it could be a little more forward but not more refined. Extra agrume energy – with a little lime in this complexity. Fine, sweeping, acidity and practically juicy finishing. Simply an excellent wine – potentially more than that! Lovely vibrant finishing flavour.
‘Always ready before the Fourchaume – it has a different finesse’
A fresh and more saline width of aroma – the sea! More direct and more overtly mineral – here with a certain extra sucrosity – that’s a great wine – so accessible but so ‘correct’ – lightly padded for balance but utterly classic. Great wine and soooo long with a faint touch of tannin on the tip of the tongue!
VV the sub-text for barrel elevage here today – 500-litre large format barrels
A faint barrel note – but wide and perfumed too. Extra energy in all directions – wow wine without a doubt. Of course, there are the barrel notes – but more modest than the Chablis VV – for example. Just a great wine again – and really quite different to the ‘standard’ ‘HM’ – finishing with an extra floral element too.
2020 Chablis 1er Fourchaume L’Art Diller
900 bottles from the concrete egg – in this case, the diamond version though there’s no difference inside. L’artdiller is the first part of Fourchaume – cold, and lots of clay – from Maligny. ‘Without the egg, I think it a very strict place’ – there is no 2021 of this.
A softer nose – a nice width still – subtly floral with a faint herb too. Mouth-filling, gorgeously textured – an accent of pyrazines in these flavours today but really on a subtle level. Comfortable and mouthwatering – just a superb wine for the insensitive – and even for the sensitive (me!) I’m enjoying this very much – so long too!