Tasted with Alexandre Milcent in ‘Chichée,’ 19 January 2023.
Domaine Milcent
Ferme de Pommard
89800 Chichée
Tel: +33 3 86 42 41 49
www.chablis-milcent.com
Alexandre’s parents, Delphine & Christophe, came here 30 years ago. But where is ‘here?’
The address may be Chichée but the Ferme de Pommard is a long way from Chichée! Take the road out of Chablis in the direction of Nitry and you will find the farm, literally, in the middle of nowhere. When the place was bought by Alexandre’s parents it was a mixed farm, needing renovation, producing mainly grains – but there were already some vines and a significant area of land that was unplanted (to vine) but was within the Chablis AOC.
Wine has been made here for twenty years but Delphine & Christophe sold in bulk. The family’s investment in a new cuverie came in 2017. Today, there are about 24 hectares that are currently planted to vines with a potential of up to 30 that can be planted within the AOC including 4 1er crus in their portfolio. The family also still farm over 200 hectares that are planted for cereals.
Touring the domaine’s cuverie, it seems that they are very well set up. Like most domaines in Chablis, they use machine harvesting but their grapes are collected in large trailers which have a separation between the free-run juice and the rest of the grapes – this free-run juice can be pumped directly to their tanks without having to go into the grape presses. The trailers include their own ‘giraffe’ which have built-in vibration and are sufficiently wide that they can do some additional triage to remove, for instance, leaves that the machine sorting may have missed. From their presses, all moves by gravity to stainless steel tanks in the cuverie.
The domaine is still selling some of its production in bulk but the amount is quickly shrinking. In 2020, they commercialised 9,000 bottles. In 2021 it was 39,000 bottles – and it may be as high as 50,000 in 2022. Their current sales are mainly in France – cavistes and cafes/restaurants ‘but no supermarkets’ – they are also selling at some salons too since their post-covid restart.
The wines…
I like the ease and tastiness of this producer’s wines – I think they can only improve from here too as the vines are so young – a (recognisable) label to keep an eye out for.
All natural cork – ‘different quality for the 1er crus:’
2021 Petit Chablis
Below Forets & Butteaux – 2ha – there’s another 2ha from 2022 and they will top out at 10-12 ha. Bottled July
A broad nose that’s a little spiced. A width of quite powerful flavours, mineral too. A modest rigour then floral perfumed to finish.
2021 Chablis
Already 3-4 hectares next to their Petit Chablis, then a similarly sized parcel just under Montmains. A third parcel between Vaillons and Montmains and the last under Les Lys – totalling about 13 hectares
Also a fresh and vibrant nose. Some extra depth and a slightly more generous shape – floral infused – that’s a very good wine!
2021 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
First harvest of these 3-year-old vines – ‘we didn’t think we’d have anything as we thought this place was 100% frosted but with the vigour of young vines there was a little.’ In the area of Vaupulent.
A nose that’s a little more direct – like all the wines here just with tank elevage. Hmm, young vines but clearly there is more interest here and a delicious width of flavour too – simply a lovely wine!
2021 Chablis 1er Vaillons
A potential of over 4 ha here – Roncières and Epinottes – more of the former.
Also an open nose but today it lacks a little differentiation between the wines. More intense, more mineral in style. Broad and again very tasty in this finishing width. Another very tasty wine.
2021 Chablis 1er Beauroy
In real Beauroy – a small parcel for this one. 30-40 yo vines here.
This nose is more direct. A more chalky width – more mineral in style too, slightly floral in the finish. That’s certainly a stronger, more impressive wine than the easy but delicious previous 1ers.
2021 Chablis 1er Vaucoupins
A relatively flat part of this cru – ‘we are happy with that!’ – 0.33 ha of vines with about 8-9 years of age.
Here’s a different nose the width has an extra mineral quality to it. Mouthfilling – fuller but more airy than powerful. Melting wth very tasty flavour. That’s another very good and very tasty wine.