Tasted with Jean-François Bordet in Maligny, 26 January 2022.
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet
8 Chemin des Hâtes
89800 Maligny
Tel: +33 6 45 47 44 42
www.seguinot-bordet.fr
More reports with Domaine Séguinot-Bordet
Jean-François on 2022:
“Yes – very happy – still some frost but we had 5 ha of candles plus some aspersion. I still managed to do a little over 60 hl/ha s0 there’s some VCI. The wines look good too. I already had to do a small bottling of 2022s as the stocks of 21s are gone early – and 90% of those are already sold!”
Jean-François on 2021:
“With aspersion and candles we protected the vines quite well but it’s still a small vintage in – 29 hl/ha. Very classic Chablis, I think, with super minerality.”
I asked Jean-François if he could explain some of the work done by the collective of Maligny producers to fight the frost as best as possible: “We now have over 12 hectares that are protected with the electric cables. We also have quite some surface that’s protected by aspersion – in Fourchaume, mainly. And then there are the ‘anti-frost towers’ – we have 25 of them – they are like standard windmills that just turn if it’s a spring frost – the air is warmer above in this case so gets distributed lower down the hillsides where the frost collects. But if it’s a winter frost and there’s no warmer air above they can use wood pellets (the pulled-out dead vines for instance) to warm the air that they will move. – so now a large part of Maligny has some protection from frost.”
The wines…
Jean-François has nailed the vintage – he has simply great entry wines and grand crus – the 1er are also excellent – well-done to him!
All bottled:
Plateau in Maligny is all clay, almost no stones – this brings a floral, just some large stones – indistinguishable from the grand cru rock. This with screw-cap – also plenty screwcaps for villages Chablis. There’s DIAM-style seals and screw-caps for this wine
Fine and classy – a little seaside salinity too. Supple, concentrated, beautiful shape – no simple quaffing PC here – that’s proper wine – bravo! Super complex finishing with plenty of salinity and chalky finishing – top.
Here from Maligny, there are some parts with clay but mainly it is more stony ground. ‘Maligny does have a certain roundness though.’
A wider, also more direct and more mineral width of aroma. More muscular, more overt citrus intensity too – but direct, cool and mineral – another chalky style of wine. Vibrant fishing – Bravo again – that’s a great start here!
There’s no Chablis VV:
2021 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Today this is 100% from Homme Mort, 55-year-old vines.
An aromatic nose – that’s a lovely. Cool, chiselled, beautifully mouth-watering – that’s beautiful – such super proportions – it’s simply excellent.
2021 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From bought grapes – labelled Jean-Francois Bordet. This with DIAM10
Smaller in the top notes, but broader at the base – slowly adding a more mineral aspect. Also super clean and super mineral but a more textural, silky wine with a small cushion. Beatufull, more floral hints in these flavours – a super wine – again – simply excellent and with an extra finishing burst too!
Bottled 10 days – 500-litre barrel, 4 years old. Just ove 600 bottles this year.
Breadth and florals – ooh that’s a really lovely nose – the perfume continuing to grow in the glass. Not fat but glacially clean, complex and mobile – seriously great wine – not so many words needed! Ooh, and then yet another wave of finishing flavour as you are preparing for the next wine!
Also a 500-litre barrel – but this one was 2 years old.
A fuller nose, faintly barrel spiced – lots of perfume again, heavier perfume – but perfume. Such a floral-infused flavour. Fuller, more overt salinity – that’s grand too – a great wine – another bursting with ‘extra’ in the finish. Bravo – my preference is the directness of the Preuses but here is an equally grand wine!
And to compare, so bottled 2022s:
2022 Petit Chablis
Just a few days in bottle.
Like all the 22s previously tasted, a larger scale of almost explosive aroma – energy – fruit energy. Hmm, here I would guess the region – one of the first – that’s excellent – but wait 6 months for a proper Chablis experience.
2022 Chablis
There’s power here too – a full width – a little lime amongst the citrus. Riper, more fruit, less easy to see the source of these grapes than for the PC today – it’s fresh, powerful, balanced and tasty – wait 9-12 months and return – it has all the material you could wish for…