Tasted in Maligny with Pierrick Laroche, 25 January 2023.
Domaine Des Hâtes
5 Chemin des Hâtes
89800 Maligny
Tel: +33 6 73 67 33 47
More reports with Domaine des Hâtes
Pierrick on 2022:
“In 22 we made the volume and in some parts with VCI too – hardly anything plus though – I like the quality – a bit of 2020 style – we had more concentration in 2019, I think.”
Pierrick on 2021:
“In terms of ripeness there was maybe a bit of blocking in 2021 – sometimes you thought the grapes ready but the sugar had been concentrated rather than seeing a full ripeness. The weather at flowering was pretty good – better was possible but it was pretty good. The syndicate allowed us to chaptalize up to 2° but I didn’t go much above 1° – the grapes were nicely golden when it came to harvesting it’s just that with the summer that we had they weren’t full of sugar! I think the wines have some resemblance to 2017 and I think the 17s better but the style is in that kind of direction. All has been reserved here for a long time – not all has left the warehouse yet – but close – everyone got an allocation of 30% of normal! And there’s nothing in terms of packaging that hasn’t increased in price by less than 35% in the last year – it’s another €1.50 per bottle without us doing anything.”
The wines…
A top range of 21s from Pierrick – a subtle austerity – call it strictness – in some – but you know that I like strict!
Started with some screw-caps for export – depending on the client – the rest of the range is with DIAM. Apparently, Pierrick’s customers appreciate these screwcaps and the volume is already interesting – nearly 25% of his export. The wines all bottled from April – July for Petit Chablis and from April to a bit later for the Chablis – 2 bottlings for the Petit, and three for the Chablis – probably there will be some early bottling of some 22s to cover the gap – starting at the end of February – but with more, smaller volume bottlings:
2021 Petit Chablis
Only Maligny – 2 terroirs – a plateau that has a lot of clay – like in Lignorelles – plus limestone slopes, south, south-east-facing – here it’s more mineral. But the parcels are quite close to each other. About 20-year-old vines
That’s an easy and welcoming nose. Direct, properly mineral – finishing a little vibrant and wide. Structured, you should wait a bit, but this is very good.
Also only from Maligny here.
Here the nose is just a little broader at the base – still with fine clarity and just a hint more citrus complexity. In the mouth more mouth-filling volume – super-silky texture and fabulous clarity. That’s a great villages! Very moreish!
Not made in 2020 – a plateau (below the PC) that’s got a lot of limestone – above Homme Mort – 50-year-old vines. 100% barrel in this vintage – it’s normally 50% – in 600-litre barrels, none new. First vines harvested here in 21…
A nose that’s a lot more saline – the sea! Ooh – that’s another brilliant wine – iodine, mineral, dynamic. Finishing subtly but chalky with some initial width. Another great one!
2021 Chablis 1er Butteaux
Third vintage – nearly 3 hectares extra. This is the first part of Butteaux as you leave Chablis next to Forets… Younger vines planted by father-in-law after some court-noué and it seems to be returning – 12-15 hl/ha in 2021. All barrel elevage again.
A subtle sweet warmth from the barrel but not much more in the aromas – aromatically, this is a calm, slightly shy wine today. Calm mouth-filling, fine textured a wine of impressive complexity that is neither fully citrus nor mineral. Broad finishing, more saline today – super…
A mix of tank and barrel – 60% tank. Protected by aspersion here.
A broader, more open aromatic – slightly airy – greatly inviting! Extra width, cooler fruit, mineral and silk – I hardly see the 2/3rds wood elevage. Such a mobile, complex energetic but pure thing. Bravo – fine finishing intensity with a broad wave of finishing salinity. Top!
*My two contracts that I normally have in the 1ers, I didn’t have but there’s still Bougros!”
One barrel and one demi-muid for elevage. Candle protection used here, just above the section that uses the aspersion.
Not a wide nose but one with a fine and deep floral note – beautifully perfumed wine. Hmm, that’s just a beauty in the mouth – melting, broad flavour, some salinity. That’s a simply excellent wine – potentially great -. it has been beautifully made.