Tasted in Chablis with Cyril Ponelle, 25 January 2023.
Domaine Drouhin Vaudon
Moulin de Vaudon
Chemin du Moulin
89800 Chichée
Tel: +33 3 80 24 68 88
www.drouhin-vaudon.com
More reports for Domaine Drouhin Vaudon
Cyril on 2022:
“We are very happy with the whole of the 40 hectares that we have in Chablis – all orgainic some biodynamic – so no VCI in this vintage.”
Cyril on 2021:
“About 70% less volume than average and in some areas the grapes were not even harvested. We did a lot of triage before pressing.”
Still, all the grapes are pressed here in Chablis and then moved to Beaune for vinifying after settling.
The wines…
There’s a serenity to most of these wines – a finesse that works so well with their interpretation of the purity of this vintage. Well done them
All but the Grand crus were bottled, those probably to be done during the Springtime:
2021 Chablis Reserve de Vaudon
27 ha represented here including a single parcel of 15 ha – all stainless elevage
Nice perfumed nose – that’s lovely and very inviting. Mouth-filling, lovely style indeed class in the mouth – with complex citrus and an easy and very delicious style. Excellent wine of complete finesse
2021 Chablis 1er Montmains
Mainly Montmains with a small part of Forêts. Vines in the mid-20s-year-old. A little more than 1.8 hectares. Risky for frost here at the bottom of the hill as there’s not much air circulation.
Broader, fresher, more forward. Direct, cool, more mineral and of more serious intensity. A wine of structure but nothing hard – a certain intensity here – not quite austere but hence my use of the word serious – that’s a super wine – I love! – but you should have some patience.
2021 Chablis 1er Vaillons
Mostly from the lower levels of about 25 years old, 2.2 hectares. One part of this a contract wine.
Extra breadth of aroma – more accessible, almost floral accented yellow citrus – that’s another elegantly styled invitation. Supple, mobile, a hint of cushion to this compared to the steely minerals of the Montmains. Broad and fine – slightly discrete finishing but long with an obvious salinity. It’s a super wine.
Always some of the earliest vines to grow and harvest. Two parcels, one very old that was pulled out in 2017. Also, a part that is a contract.
A small extra impact of aroma in the higher tones – more airy in style after this initial punch. Hmm – extra direct and cool – extra mineral too – like the Montmains but here there’s more citrus energy to take away the suggestion of austerity. Open, easy and complex – again a wine of finesse in this finish – it’s simply beautiful and oh-so long. Bravo.
2021 Chablis Bougros
‘These are my vines’ says Frédéric Drouhin. ‘I’ve also a little Chambolle 1er though! They are steep vines, often with strength and austerity at the start.’ 0.3 ha – usually not too many maladies in this area.’
Airy but of good breadth – some complexity of citrus – a hint of lime too. Super mouth-filling volume of cool fruit and minerality – the oak is present but subtle – the citrus complex and clean. A step up in volume for sure after the MdM – clean and delicious. This sustains a properly great finish – really impressive wine.
2021 Chablis Vaudesir
Two parcels – one at the top with very old vines, vinified separately then assembled. 1.4 ha in total. Elevage uses 300 and 500-litre barrels – none new. The soil is light and mobile but it’s steep too – ‘so we use a horse to plough.’
There’s a small core of riper, not quite exotic, citrus but here is a more compact, slightly sullen nose today. In the mouth that’s not the case – there’s still a little CO2 that’s pushing but here’s a bundle of energy and complexity – slowly becoming more supple as the gas fades. Broad, citrus, juicily mouth-watering – that’s a very good vintage for a Vaudésir – proper grand cru and I like it a lot – such super
Old vines no question about quality but they struggle on quantity so a small parcel has been pulled out for replanting. ‘Always a particular character – a sunny disposition – no surprise as direct south-facing.’ Two parcels in the middle of Clos but separated by other vines – 1.3 hectares.
Hmm – more open than the Vaudésir, less open than the Bougros – but there’s still something of a panorama here – complex, subtle citrus and a little floral higher tones. Incisive, texturally beautifully silky, gorgeously direct and mineral – tension for sure – then broadening again for the finish – a fully citrus width today to start – that’s going to be a great one – it needs time – actually it needs bottling 😉