Tasted in Chablis with Laurent & Charlene Pinson, 10 January 2023.
Domaine Pinson
5, quai Voltaire
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 10 26
www.domaine-pinson.com
More reports for Domaine Pinson
Charlene on 2022:
“Very happy – it was an easy, mild winter – almost as precocious in the vines as in 2021 – but not quite! There were small effects from the frost but in the end they were minimal… It was a little wet for a couple of weeks in June but before and after it was fine and the grapes were nice and clean at harvest time and very easy to ferment…”
Charlene on 2021:
“More complicated – of course, the main handicaps came at the start – for us about similar to 2016 – we do all by hand and it was a big triage which contributed to lower yields. But we’re happy with what we have – the wines are very ‘Chablis’ – the juice was much easier to extract than in 2020 when the skins were much harder. Almost all are bottled – not yet quite the grand crus.”
The wines…
As every year – a very high standard at this domaine – there is much that I covet!
All the 1ers with cork after the first two DIAM. Bottling will be finished by the end of the month (January 2023) ‘We are normally done before the end of the year but we needed the extra time this year:’
2021 Charlène and Laurent Pinson, Petit Chablis
From close to Maligny
A width of slightly warm, also slightly tight aroma. Hmm – nicely mouth-filling, a faint rub of greener herb and minerality. Then broad and fine finishing – an impressive width and length to this finish.
2021 Chablis
Right bank below Mont de Milieu plus one other. About 50 years old vines on average. This the domaine wine – plain south facing
Fuller, still a hint of savoury aroma – there’s a bit of DIAM reduction here to start. Hmm – that’s a super debut – mouth-filling, energetic, lots of citrus complexity. Lovely wine and finishing with a fine intensity. Super!
2021 Chablis 1er Vaillons
Wider, sweeter and a little more floral. Extra direct, growing more supple – with fine shape and melting flavour. The finish again is sustained and impressive – more salinity visible in this one. Another lovely wine…
2021 Chablis 1er Vaugiraut
A small parcel. South-facing, similar soil to Forets. 25-year-old vines.
Again a nose that’s a little tight – all the wines popped and poured – but slowly growing in shape and size. A vibrant width of flavour here – extra mineral but still mouth-watering from the melting flavour. Punchy and chiselled wine – another with a super finish.
The vines planted 1955/56, right at the start of Forêts – a very limestone soil. ‘We thought the frost might have killed these vines – they were the worst hit – even three weeks later there was no growth – we were completely surprised – a good surprise – when it came to the harvest that there was enough a fill a press – 30 hl but all is manual so the stems took up some of that volume…’
A wider wine, almost a little floral. Mouth-filling, more melting, fluid in style – growing in intensity – less chiselled but just so achingly fine and delicious over the palate – bravo!
2021 Chablis 1er Montmains
Right at the end of Montmains (real Montmains) about 150 metres from the Fôrets but same height up on the hill. More white/blue clay, less white stone than Fôrets. This and the last the oldest parcels of the domaine at roughly 66 and 67 years-old.
A slightly spiced and fresh width. Broader, incisive, a little less fluid but more intense, almost structured. The concentration seems higher here. Simply excellent wine.
Now moving to the right bank:
2021 Charlene et Laurent Pinson, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
In Vaupoulot just changing the orientation a little, similar to that of the middle of Montée de Tonnerre. Only tank elevage as it usually seems to big with barrel elevage. Just two weeks in bottle – like the grand crus. This a contract…
That’s attractive and has a bit more depth – and complexity in that depth – than previous wines. Mouth-filling, easier, slightly generous but still cool and mineral. The length of the other wines – slightly tannic finishing.
2021 Charlene et Laurent Pinson, Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
This from bought grapes ‘it’s not that we need the volume, but I love to complete a nice range of crus’
Broad again – much more action in the higher tones – modestly mineral aromatics. Incisive, clean, with super width. The finish is narrower but no less long than the other wines. Excellent.
2021 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
Biggest parcel of the domaine, 4.5 hectares in two blocks, ‘the big parcel works really well raisonné because there is no neighbourly influence. Always the first harvested area – the acidities drop sooner here.
An airier nose – attractive but smaller. Nice shape here – mineral, faintly austere – a wine to have some patience with – but it will be to your advantage – lovely texture and fine mineral intensity. Mouth-watering in the finish – long here… Super but you have been warned!
2021 Chablis Les Preuses
A contract. Sample from tank
A larger aromatic, here with a little barrel. Supple, weighted, a wine of concentration and growing intensity. A wine oozing class – not to mention mineral energy. A wine to wait for too – I wouldn’t dream of attacking this before it’s 10 years old – 20 should be perfect! Super again…
From 4 different parcels, but the total is 2.5 hectares. Various vine ages from 10-47 years. Also a sample
A more direct nose of clarity – a hint of floral sweetness here too. Super wide – super clean – that’s hyper-impressive – widescreen flavours that are intense but not painful. Big but complete wine – bravo
2019! Chablis Les Clos Authentique
After two years of barrel elevage – Three new barrels.
A nose with a vibration of energy, framed with creamy oak. Hmm – the structure is more overt here – broad, creamy and complex, slowly fading into the finishing distance. Long, long…. Totally different but completely engrossing.
And something for the road?:
2020 Les Clos
Bright, pure and a little floral. Rounder than the 21s, supple too – but melting with an impressive weight of mineral flavour. Good acidity too from this impressive wine.
2019 Les Clos
Here the aromatic action is a little deeper and nicely vibrant – with a creamy echo. Fuller, more mouth-filling – a little extra complexity. I feel, if not directly taste, the barrels a little more. The finish is really fabulous, slowly mouthwatering…