Tasted in Chablis with Romain Collet, 24 January 2023.
Domaine Jean Collet & Fils
15 avenue de la Liberté
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 11 93
www.domaine-collet.fr
More reports with Domaine Jean Collet & Fils
Romain on 2022:
“It’s top – we had some important rain at the start of the year which helped a lot – that and some more rain in August – these saved the vintage for volume. The plateaus with lots of clay suffered. But we had nice things. ”
Romain on 2021:
“We can be very happy with the volume here. We’ve averaged 45 hl/ha the last 10 years and I think that’s a lovely balance, though if nature gives a little more – like in 2022 – we’ll take it! We saw about 30 hl/ha this vintage but 2021 was still a lot of hard work in the vines. Not all is sold, we always keep some for passing clients.”
The wines…
Another fine set of wines from this domaine – really some consistency over recent vintages!
All diam here except for the two grand crus, all new labels for the domaine since 2020 – ‘similar to grandfather’s labels’ – simple and clean.’ All the cuvées have now been bottled, except for the two grand crus. The Chablis done in July and the others in November – probably February for the GCs:
2021 Chablis
15 hectares of vines represented here.
Hmm – that’s quite a perfumed nose. Full, energetic, vibrant, saline – there’s everything here that I’m looking for – it’s simply excellent!
Organic for many years – also from Villy on a south-facing slope.
Also wide and fresh – more minerality. Extra width and intensity – here’s energy – oof – I’d wait for that to calm a little but there’s nothing sharp or too intense. Bravo Wait 2 years!
2021 Chablis 1er Montmains
Only stainless-steel elevage here. From 4 parcels of true Montmains amounting to 5 hectares. The only 1er cru with no wood in the elevage.
Fine freshness – depth of airy minerality – it’s very inviting. Larger scale, finer, more interesting agrume complexity – that’s really super. ‘For me Montmains is in the middle – Butteaux is colder, Forets is warmer – my vines anyway…‘
0.72 ha one parcel, organic since 2008. Planted in 1972. Alcoholic fermentation in tank then moved to wood.
Extra width but less easy to define the elements. Bright, super-mineral, intense even. Hmm – crystalline – supple slowly changing and becoming more fluid over the palate. That’s a great one!
Bought in 2005, replanted in 2008, 0.92 hectares. Concrete tanks and a smaller amount of barrels for elevage.
More complex but still very fresh and inviting. More scale but no less crystalline in focus. Despite its size here’s a wine that still has a little austerity – I’d be waiting a little for this – but with great anticipation – also bravo!
2021 Chablis 1er Vaillons
10 hectares here – lucky it’s mum’s favourite – ‘I can’t understand that anyone wouldn’t like it’ she says! From Epinottes, Minot, Encieres, Chatains and en Vaillons. 5% in barrel the rest in tank – after malo one part goes into older barrels.
The most citrus – lemon – of these so far. Direct, super-mouth-watering. A hint of barrel that’s rounding the palate? Yes there’s a third barrel elevage, a third foudre and the rest stainless – but it’s only the end of the flavours where the effect is visible in the shape – simply an excellent wine!
2021 Chablis 1er Secher
50% jar, 50% new oak – made like this since 2019 – a small cuvée from 0.25 ha, here since 2008, for experimenting 🙂
A fleshier citrus here – possibly because of the more visible barrels. Hmm – that’s also vibrant yet still modestly calmer than the previous two. Already more accessible than the previous wines though the oak is present – but wait 2-3 years and I suspect it will be invisible. Already excellent wine with its oak.
2021 Chablis Le Montée de Tonnerre
2 parcels – one of 0.25 plus another of 1.80 in Les Chapots. ‘The smaller brings a richness, the other a colder area brings that brings tension and vivacity.’ All oak but only 5% new…
Hmm – despite the oak that’s floral and complex and very inviting. Hmm, incisive but also with plenty of concentration to back it up – saline – direct, underpinned with lots of minerality – the oak more subtle here than the Secher.
In tank the last 2 months for bottling in February.
Broad – some aromatic concentration here too – faintly oaked. Extra scale but no fat – just mobile complex, concentrated flavour. Ultra finishing – here is something special!
One parcel of 0.16 hectares. First vintage 2013 now on fermage. ‘I think it’s our best since 2014 – I hope it’s as good when it’s bottled!’
A smaller nose but much more direct, faintly oaked and very attractive. Hmm – proper energy, multi-faceted wine – complex and mobile – full finishing with tons of complexity – ultra-length, tons of salinity too – it’s clearly a great one.