Tasted in Puligny with Philippe Abadie, 20 January 2023.
Domaine Alvina Pernot
4d rue de Bois
21190 Puligny-Montrachet
More reports with Domaine Alvina Pernot
Philippe on 2022:
“We were so happy. 21 was good in terms of wine, though the grapes could have been better; grapes harvested in September are rarely as clean as those harvested in August – like in 2022! What a difference 3-4 years make – grandfather Paul had never seen so much as in 2018 and he’d never seen so little as in 2021!”
Philippe on 2021:
“So for 2021, of course, we have fewer appellations. Those that are Alvina’s were protected as much as possible but still, the losses were about 50%. With three modest parcels at least we had the luxury of harvesting when we think it’s exactly right – there’s not too much in the way of logistics! Unfortunately, some red parts weren’t harvested as the rot was too much – but it made life complicated in the cellar too as the volumes were so low. Our wines were bottled at the start of October – we already realise that our premises are too small, we can now see that it wasn’t possible to have two years, side by side, in elevage at the same time! Anyway, our tasting will be much shorter this year compared to next – in 2021 we have 7 cuvées, from 2022 we will have 22!”
The wines…
It’s only the wine in magnum that’s currently hiding its elevage less well – it’s never easy when you have just one barrel: The others are just magnificently crafted wines – what a great selection in 21 – good luck to you if you can find some.
All the wines were bottled at the start of October. The first three are all domaine and all made using a vertical press. ‘Quickly removing the bourbe, and then the juice direct into barrel:’
2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Blanc Rue de Bois
The vines around the cuverie
That’s got a very fine and pure nose – it’s very Puligny. Great shape and silky texture. The flavours are a little tighter than the aromas but a wine whose flavour grows and grows in authority – that’s becoming very lovely. A properly excellent white Bourgogne!
The only reason I didn’t describe the Bourgogne as ‘great,’ was because there was such a large jump in quality to the next wine!
Some extra breadth and freshness of more mineral aromas – subtly, nobly, suggesting some reduction and citrus skin. In the mouth, this is more incisive than the Bourgogne – a more chiselled and mouth-watering style – cool fruited – with a little zesty citrus skin. Simply lovely finishing too – top villages!
2021 Puligny-Montrachet Rue au Vache
From magnum – they already have no more bottles! This was the least touched by the frost but still, only 1 barrel was produced.
Narrower but deeper aromas – a little tighter for sure versus the Noyers. Open, fine width – more crystalline – perhaps delicate too. There is both tension and finesse – I see the cushioning of the barrel a hint more here – but in another 12 months, it will hardly be visible. Long, sweetly finishing – today I’d rather drink the Noyers – but in 2 more years I could be persuaded otherwise! Simply excellent wine
2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
Exchanges of must for this and the Charlemagne
Another that’s not quite as open as the Noyers but still with a very attractive width of pure, riper fruit. Incisive, supple and silky. Hmm, that’s a luxurious wine, finishing long and again with a beautifully elegant finesse. Simply a beautiful thing.
Also a tighter nose but one with a little of the attractive minerality of the Noyers and such crystallinity too – hyper-impressive. More mouth-filling, more energetic – here there are not just brilliant flavours – there is fun in this glass too. Lovely energy, texture and delicious too – what a great wine – such great finishing presence too!
Opposite Restaurant Le Charlemagne.
A broader, more forward nose of yellow citrus and a more chalky style – quite different to all the previous. Stripped back, intense, direct – wow wine again – such intensity – it’s like the fruit of the Pucelles has been dialled back but with extra power given to the minerality. I love it – that’s a completely different style but a great one!
Tighter top notes but what depth of clean, pure more golden fruit. Wow! This is showcasing its minerality in a similar way to the Charlemagne – stripped back, incisive and intense – wow again! There is a few mm more cushion to this texture but such an impressive, structural wine – gorgeously defined and shape – grand vin!