Tasted in Beine with Christophe & Stéphanie Mosnier, 19 Januray 2023.

Domaine Sylvain Mosnier
36 Route Nationale
89800 Beine
Tel: +33 3 86 42 43 96
www.chablis-mosnier.com
More reports with Domaine Sylvain Mosnier

On 2022:
“2022? It’s okay – we can breathe! Yes, it’s helped a lot. Not a significantly ‘extra’ volume but a correct one – 50-60 hl/ha depending on the area.”

On 2021:
“It’s the worst for volume – worse than 2016 and even 2003 – 12-15 hl/ha was our problem. But not all have been sold just yet, as some are only just being commercialised. But it’s a vintage of energy and lots of citrus flavour. The last of the bottlings were completed in July.”

The wines…

A mix of styles (& vintages tasted) here – not helped by the overt pyrazines of the 2020s – but the 2021 old-vines Chablis is potentially a great bottle.

All bottled. The first use of DIAM here was in 2007 for their entry wines and thereafter slowly expanding their use. Since 2011 for the whole range:

2021 Petit Chablis
They have 4 hectares above Beines on the plateau; one part with a bit more clay the other with more limestone.
A big burst of aromatic energy here – lots of citrus aroma. Broad and incisive at the same time- there’s some orange flesh in this agrume finish – that’s a super wine!

2021 Chablis
More direct aromas with extra freshness. Mouth-filling, mobile – really a classic salinity here. Broad finishing, there’s a similar style of agrume in this finish too – holding very well. That’s another really super wine.

2021 Chablis 1er Beauroy
‘A lot of clay in the soil here.’
Not the largest nose but here there’s clarity and a small floral extra. A little gas but then a fine texture with extra generosity – concentration – but here’s still a wine with plenty of get up and go. The family agrume finish still present here. Another super example!

Wines that are newly commercial here, including some more 2021s:

2020 Chablis Terre et Secret
1 year in tank plus more in jars
Directly a little pyrazine note at the centre of this wine. In the mouth too – I like the shape and texture of this but the green is quite strong here. The finish long and fading – it’s good here.

2018 Chablis 1er Beauroy La Part de l’Homme
The same process as the last for elevage – actually made with the VCI in 2018 – bottled in November 2020
A narrow width of aroma – attractive, very faintly spiced and saline. Nice start – almost incisive a rounder, more ripe middle flavour but an easy style over the palate – the minerality quite present yet with a slight softness. The most open and tastiest part today is the finish with a small floral contribution. It’s very good here.

2021 Chablis 1er Cote de Lechets l’Elixir
Unlike the soil in Beauroy, mainly small stones here. Amphora and an older barrel – the elevage here due to the volume. Normally the cuvée name is Antic – but that’s without any barrels.
An extra lift and freshness of aroma. Here is volume and plenty of concentration despite the fine energy. Silky with a few mm of cushioning then broad and fine finishing – just a little roundness to these finishing flavours

2020 Chablis Réserve
Longer elevage – 1 year in tank and finished with 3 months in barrel.
A little pyrazine and then a little barrel. Beautiful shape and fluidity over the palate – mouth-watering too – but today the creamy oak mixing with the accent of the pyrazine are not a good look. Give it 3-4 years before returning.

2021 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes 1893 Heritage
The old vines with 100% barrel elevage.
Hmm – that’s a nice width of aroma and the barrel spice is much more discrete here. Broad, clean and pure – that’s a super wine – the slight cushion of the oak is not too overt and the texture is fine and silky. A broad and impressive growth of the finishing wave of flavour, and there’s also good salinity and width here. That’s a really super wine.