Entries from 2022

some missing wines

By billn on February 01, 2022 #degustation

Well, there have been a few that I haven’t mentioned.

Starting with a cha-cha-cha phase that was followed with a bit more Cha! Chambollow, Chiroubles, Chenas and then more from Chambolle:

First up was Pauline Passot’s 2019 Chiroubles Claudius
Lighter colour than I remember – a bit of surprise. Still absolutely delicious but like the colour this flavour profile is showing some extra maturity – a surprise for such a youngster – so it’s a wine to monitor – but life will not be hard if I have to drink the remaining bottles! Rebuy – Maybe (for now)
2017 Chambolle-Musigny Les Nazoires from the Boursot brothers
A wine that is completely delicious and finely textured – no need to wait, no need to rush – it’s just drinking beautifully and will hold for at least another 10 years if you wish. Rebuy -Yes!
2018 Céline et Nicolas Hirsch, Chénas Les Brureaux
This has deep colour and lots of dark but exciting fruit. This is generous and mouth-filling wine – never ponderous, indeed a wine that is far too easy to drink right now. Easy to recommend. Rebuy – Yes
2005 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle Clos du Village
This wine is still deeply coloured – and what a nose! Basso-profundo, with much volume and an almost textured cushion. Great wine today and in a perfect place for drinking. Like the Gambal Charmes from a couple of weeks back, 2005 Chambolles continue to demonstrate why I consider this the epicentre of greatness in the 2005 vintage. Generous, gorgeous, flattering, delicious wine – Bravo! Rebuy – Like a shot I’ve rarely bought cases of 12 but this was one I chose directly after tasting – I had to wait for it to be bottled – though I felt it to be quite expensive at the time, ~€24 per bottle!
2017 Château Bonnet‘s Moulin à Vent Chien de Garde
Seemingly another winner. Full, well-textured the aromas and flavours also generous but delivered with fine energy. No shrinking violet, this one, but a very moreish wine. A winner! Rebuy – Yes
2019 La Croix Montjoie, Vézelay ‘l’Elégante’
The last of this little tour. Some extra colour and aromas that show more maturity than in the first 18 months I’ve been drinking it. But still showing energy and a nicely vibrant line of tasty flavour. I did prefer this wine when (even) younger (like the first wine from Passot) but it remains fresh and satisfying, tasty wine. Rebuy – Maybe

offer of the day – henri boillot 2020

By billn on January 23, 2022 #the market

henri-boillot-charlemagne

Domaine Henri Boillot 2020 – en primeur
As always, from my local Swiss merchant who makes this offer about the same time each year.
I leave you with the 2019, 2018 and the 2017, pricing in brackets. Well, you didn’t expect it to go down did you? – Just be happy that the Bourgogne didn’t increase 🙂
— = not offered

Bourgogne Chardonnay 2020 75cl 29.00* (29.00, 26.00, 23.00) Swiss Francs

St.Aubin 1er 2020 75cl 55.00 (—)

Meursault Les Gouttes d’Or 2020 75cl 105.00 (95.00, —)
Meursault Clos Richemont 2020 75cl 115.00 (105.00, —)
Meursault Les Genevrières 2020 75cl 129.00 (125.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Meursault Les Perrières 2020 75cl 138.99 (—, 125.00, 115.00)

Puligny-Montrachet 2020 75cl 58.99 (58.00, 55.00, 52.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Folatières 2020 75cl 135.00 (125.00, —)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 2020 75cl 135.00 (125.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 2020 75cl 129.00 (115.00, 115.00, 108.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 2020 75cl 138.00 (128.00, 115.00, 108.00)

Corton Charlemagne 2020 75cl 205.00 (188.00, 175.00, 168.00)
Montrachet 2020 75cl 945.00 (895.00, 845.00, 795.00)

Volnay Les Chevrets 2020 75cl 89.00 (89.00, 89.00, 89.00)
Volnay Les Caillerets 2020 75cl 99.00 (99.00, 99.00, 99.00)

Clos de Vougeot 2020 75cl 185.00 (179.00, 169.00, 158.00)
Echézeaux 2020 75cl 239.00 (229.00, 229.00, —)
Bonnes-Mares 2020 75cl 350.00 (330.00, 319.00, 298.00)
Chambertin 2020 75cl 350.00 (—, 319.00, 298.00)

*The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax.

2000 Burgundy – en primeur tasting

By billn on January 21, 2022 #degustation#the market

Yes, you read that right – 2000 – only my second diary ‘post’ on this website – 20 years ago today (near-enough) with cameos from Jancis and Joanna Simon.

I was happy with the wines that I decided to buy that year – if only three from this address and at this stage. I remember being able to buy all that I wanted in both 1999, and in 2000 too. Come to think about it, the first time where I got ‘blocked’ – despite having bought the same wines since 1999 – was the 2005 vintage. I cancelled the remainder of my order in a fit of pique!

lambraysIf I search hard, maybe a lone bottle of the 2000 Engel remains – but none of the Clavelier or the Lambrays – the Lambrays was disappointing when delivered as it was far oakier than the en-primeur sample. It was fine after 7-8 years though.

But what about those prices – eh? The Engel was the same price as I paid for my 1999s. The Clos de Tart was already quite expensive and starting something of an upward surge – £52 in 2000 but already £71 in the 2001 vintage where I (still) bought a measly 3! And 2000 Rousseau Bèze for £60 anybody? With 20:20 hindsight I’d be able to replace my Aston-Martin every couple of years by selling 3 or 4 cases. Oh, sorry. I meant my Subaru – though it has just completed its 500,000-kilometre service!

Results from the 36th Concours des Vins de Chablis

By billn on January 20, 2022 #annual laurels

Guillaume Baroin tasting Chablis 2020This annual event took place last weekend. They have stopped inviting me to be part of the jury as I always decline – with already 3 weeks of tasting in Chablis in January I’d never be home if I stopped to do this at the weekend too 🙂

The jury chief this year was Guillaume Baroin – with whom I make a number of tastings each year. Image right of Guillaume in action – from the BIVB.

As each year they largely taste the most recent commercial vintage – in this case, the 2020s – but they always wait an extra year for the grand crus. So it was the 2019s for the gcs.

The results have been published (in French) and I include a link to the pdf of the results, below.

Enjoy this link

offer of the day – thibault liger-belair’s 2020s

By billn on January 19, 2022 #the market

Thibault Liger-Belair 2021Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
2020 EP/Pre-Arrivals

Prices from my Swiss merchant. When offered, the prices of the 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016 & 2015s (from the same source in previous years) are in brackets for comparison. Not offered is indicated by —
And still no Beaujolais!

NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 75 cl La Charmotte 75cl 59.00* (55.00, 55.00, 52.00, 55.00, 49.50) (Swiss Francs)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Les Belles Croix 75cl 59.00 (55.00)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er Les Saint-Georges 75cl 148.00 (135.00, 125.00, 119.00, 118.00, 109.00)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er Les Saint-Georges 150cl 318.00 (285.00, 260.00, 248.00, 256.00, – )
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Aux Beaux Bruns 75cl 84.00 (75.00)
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Fouchères 75cl 84.00 (75.00)
VOSNE-ROMANEE Aux Réas 75cl 79.00 (75.00, 75.00, 69.50, 76.00, 69.50)

CORTON CLOS DU ROI 75cl 174.00 (159.00, 159.00, 159.00, 159.00, — )
CLOS DE VOUGEOT 75cl 174.00 (165.00, 165.00, 159.00, 169.50, 158.00)
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN 75cl 205.00 (175.00, 175.00, 169.00, — , — )
RICHEBOURG 75cl 550.00 (445.00, 425.00, 398.00, — , 395.00)
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 75cl 245.00 (—, 189.00, 189.00, 198.00, — )

*As always, these wines are without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax but include the cost of delivery…
So, rises, but really of a modest level versus a number of producers’ 2020s…

There was wine over the weekend!

By billn on January 18, 2022 #degustation

Gambal 2005 Chambolle 1er Charmes & Gautheron 2019 Chablis Emeraude

But only a modest couple of bottles!

2019 Gautheron, Chablis Emeraude
A house wine since last April that has slowly taken on more precision – I like it much more now than 6 months ago – it’s all that I could wish for – except that most of the bottles have been drunk. I suppose I’d best replenish with some 2020s before they are all sold out – many in Chablis already are – even the ones not yet bottled!!!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
This cork was robust but soaked/stained red – almost the full length to the capsule – it looks like my timing was right for this one – not that anything was amiss with the contents!
Hmm – now that’s a nose! Not yet a fully mature nose of sous bois – but more than hinting at it – with round, generous and still deeply fruited aromas – it was a great invitation. The palate doubled-down on the nose; rich, sensuous, layered and completely delicious. What a wine! I guess I’m getting closer to the time to open the first of his 05 Amoureuses! Chambolle was the very epicentre of greatness in 2005!
Rebuy – Yes

2020 Red Burgundy – report now online…

By billn on January 17, 2022 #reports

2020 Beaune 1er BelissandNew online today for subscribers.

So that’s:
– My 2020 red vintage summary plus
– 67 new red domaines and their 2020s to add to
– 15 red domaines’ 2020s that were already online, plus
– 65 white domaines’ 2020s that were already online
There are a few 2020s from Beaujolais too – so that’s over 150 domaines and their 2020s now online.

In this 2020s tasting season, I may not match the 344 domaines’ 2019s that I’ve done over the last 12 months – there was one month less tasting time after the late harvest in 2021 – but I’m sure that I’ll still manage over 300 this year – open borders and good health permitting.

The new report is here – enjoy!

“Burgundy is always too hard or too soft – that there is no in between…”

By billn on January 12, 2022 #other sites

…this is the result of the flawed configuration of its unequal and disproportionate parts, which tear up the pores of the organ when they are not yet dulled; and which, becoming dulled afterwards, suddenly cease to make a sensory impression.

And of course, to counter:

The wine of Reims is thin, not quite wine-flavored, and acid, which, like most other white wines, has the strength to make urine, but very little to nourish and to warm.

Found today, and worth 15 minutes of your time…
https://quillandpad.com/2022/01/11/inside-burgundys-history-including-a-royal-war-with-champagne/

Burgundy Report

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