Entries from 2022

Sylvain Martel’s 2020 Juliénas ‘Bessay’

By billn on March 22, 2022 #degustation

2020 Sylvain Martel, Juliénas Bessay
Vines that are all on high, on blue-stone. Certainly more rain here than in Fleurie in 2020 – though these old vines, worked organically, delivered 30 hl/ha from 0.8 ha
An aromatic of energy – mineral, almost steely red fruit – freshness too. Good depth and supple concentration but with a lovely finishing freshness – long, haunting flavours in the finish but subtle – this is no broad or powerful finish – just a very elegant wine.
Rebuy – Yes

some weekend wines – week 11 2022

By billn on March 22, 2022 #degustation

weekend wines 11 2022

We were really treated by three out of the four wines this weekend!

2020 Jacques Picq et ses Enfants, Chablis
We needed a little white wine for the risotto – but why not some glasses to drink too? It turned out that this wine emphasised my worries about the green-meanies in 2020 Chablis: More than 10% of all the wines that I tasted in January were green or showing direct pyrazine – but this was lovely – in January. Well, not today – it’s good but there are clear notes of pyrazine where I didn’t see them before. I’m back in Chablis the first week of April – and you can be sure that I’ll be extra attentive!
Rebuy – No

2019 Verret, Saint-Bris Veaupiary
Great nose, delicious flavour – what a super wine – Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Ponsot, Bourgogne Cuvée du Pinson
The corked stained 90% of the way through – looks like good timing to drink this one! The last pour was full of muddy rubble and less bright
Lots of colour – and not a markedly mature colour either. A super nose – really inviting and open – hard to believe (blind) that it’s a more than 15-year-old Bourgogne. The first few sips show a lot of acidity – almost a sour style to the wine – but with food all was fine. Layers of flavour and tons of complexity. A simply great Bourgogne! Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

1996 Guy Castagnier, Clos de La Roche
I was down to my last couple of 1996s from here – there remains only some Bonnes-Mares, I think…
A modest medium colour – but not much browning. Yes! What a great nose! Complex, still with fruit and a large wave of pure floral perfume – great! In the mouth, melting, perfumed flavour – oh-so complex and beautifully balanced. People talk of the 1996 acidity – but here the acidity is much less obvious than for the 2005 Ponsot. Long – with such an airy, delicate and complex persona – Jérôme’s father also made great wine! This was probably the best wine I’ve had at home this year, so far…
Rebuy – Yes

Well-done to the Saint Vincent…

By billn on March 21, 2022 #events#the market

After 4 years of preparation, multiple adaptations for health requirements, and despite the economic and geopolitical context, the collective effort of organisers from Blagny, Corpeau & Puligny-Montrachet delivered a great 78th Saint-Vincent Tournante. Given the later than intended start, it also seems that these guests enjoyed better weather than anyone can remember. The organisers have announced that they had welcomed around 50,000 visitors, including 17,000 tasters. Bravo!

As announced by the Grand Master of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin: ‘See you for the 79th Saint-Vincent Tournate in 2023 in Couchey!

61st Hospices de Nuits Auction

By billn on March 20, 2022 #events

Hospices de NuitsMarch 20, 2022 in the Château de Clos de Vougeot – the 61st wine auction of the Hospices de Nuits

The wine auction of Hospices de Nuits-Saint-Georges can be considered the little sister of the famous Hospices de Beaune auction but that still didn’t stop the auction buyers on Sunday from following recent events in Beaune by setting their own new records for the wines of the 2021 vintage. Just like its equivalent in Beaune, this 12-hectare Nuits domaine auctions wine for the benefit of their local hospital and retirement homes.

For this 61st edition of the wine auction, and for the very first time, total bids exceeded 2 million euros. At €2,486 million (excluding auction costs) this total was up by almost 30% compared to last year’s auction of wines from the 2020 vintage – which had totalled €1.9 million euros. We shouldn’t overlook the fact that last year there were 114 barrels for sale – this year there was a further, modest, reduction to 109 barrels: The 2020 crop had been reduced in volume by the semi-drought conditions of the summer, whereas the 2021 vintage by the April frosts and then having to contain mildew in the early summer – both vintages were described as roughly ‘half-harvests.’

Like the Pièce des Presidents barrel in the Hospices de Beaune wine auction, the Hospices de Nuits also offer a special barrel for the benefit of a chosen charity. This barrel was sold for 41,460 euros – a little down on the 49,380 euros paid for the equivalent lot last year – this year to benefit APF France Handicap, ‘an organisation both for supporting and defending the rights of people with disabilities.

This year’s average price per barrel reached a new record of 22,481 euros for the reds – which was a year-on-year increase of almost 35% – and 58,000 euros for the only barrel of white, which more than double the price in 2021.

that was the week that was (tw3…)

By billn on March 18, 2022 #travels in burgundy 2022

That was the week. A couple of visits in the Côte d’Or and the rest in Beaujolais.

Next week is a week of typing – maybe February’s report on Beaujolais 2020 will be close to publication by the end of the week – fingers crossed! In the meantime, here are a few images from the end of this week:

offer of the day – marc morey 2020

By billn on March 18, 2022 #the market

From my local, Swiss merchant – in the brackets, you will find the prices of the 2019s from last year and — indicates ‘not offered.’

That’s about the smallest increase(s) I’ve seen for this vintage!

Domaine Marc Morey 2020

Saint-Aubin Charmois 1er Cru 2020 75cl 49.00 (48.00)* (Swiss Francs)

Chassagne-Montrachet 2020 75cl 59.00 (59.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru 2020 75cl 78.00 (72.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru 2020 75cl 78.00 (74.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2020 37.5cl 46.00 (47.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2020 75cl 88.00 (88.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2020 150cl 181.00 (—)
Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets 1er Cru 2020 75cl 94.00 (92.00)

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2020 75cl 139.00 (—)

*Prices delivered, but without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax…

Out and about in (greater!) Burgundy this week

By billn on March 16, 2022 #travels in burgundy 2022

Beaujolais cherry blossom...
Cherry blossom in Villefranche(SS) today…

Of-course, the town centre of Villefranche-sur-Saône is a little warmer than the surrounding countryside, but here, the cherry blossom is in full song!

I have a mix of locations – Beaune and the Beaujolais – but only one visit in the (Hautes) Côtes this week – I’m mainly catching up on those domaines that had to cancel, or didn’t fit on my 3-week schedule from February. I have to give an honourable mention to the super 2018 Aligoté from the last vintage chez Alex Gambal – it was so delicious – which reminded me that the purchasers of Alex’s business (JC Boisset) still had some stock of his wines from the last vintages – now they have 5 cases fewer 🙂

And the rest? – well, there’s a new ‘pizzeria’ in Beaune where I can highly recommend ‘mama’s lasagne!’ and then there was the Sahara rain that engulfed everywhere Monday and into Tuesday. Reports are that there will be a sandy reprise at the weekend too when I will be back in Switzerland – but the question remains – to jetwash or not to jetwash – it will probably rain in Switzerland too…

No St.Vincent, no Hospices de Nuits, no Grands Jours for me in the next days – too many people in small spaces…

Cheers!

offer of the day – lambrays 2020

By billn on March 14, 2022 #the market

It looks like this domaine have a lot of investments to recoup!

You can see the prices from my usual Swiss merchant with 2019, 2018, 2017 & 2016 pricing in the brackets!
— indicates not offered.

Domaine Clos des Lambrays:
Clos des Lambrays 2020 75cl 500.00 (445.00, 258.00, 238.00, 225.00) * (Swiss Francs)
Clos des Lambrays 2020 150cl 1,030.00 (910.00 (536.00, 481.00, —)

The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax.

Ah, the relentless, inexorable price-rise!

the almond trees

By billn on March 13, 2022 #travels in burgundy 2022

amandier - volnay clos des santenots

It’s that time of year – yes already!

And this is one of the best shows of blooms – the old tree at the top of Jacques Prieur’s Volnay 1er Clos des Santenots. These pictures from yesterday…

Burgundy Report

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