Entries from 2021

the côte de covid….

By billn on December 06, 2021 #events#warning - opinion!

There’s plenty of truth in the articles that have circulated in the last few days; here and here.

I have, personally, never engaged with the larger tastings and tasting dinners that have re-emerged in these (currently!) post-confinement times. I checked out the Roi Chambertin’s new premises – and it was better – but I still didn’t stay to taste. I do have occasional domaine visits where there are other tasters present – and I try to keep my distance – only fist bumping where necessary. Even that is fraught with difficulty; last week I received an email from an important domaine to let me know that a fellow taster had tested positive. Fortunately, me not in the 10 days that have followed the tasting, and now I’m boosted with my third jab too.

Returning the title and the linked articles; it comes as no surprise to me that a number of domaines are currently unavailable for the next 10 days for tastings – no more info given! I’ve not personally had any cancellations yet, but I know of plenty of people who have. Anyone who has seen some of the Instagram videos of the maskless partying at the Paulée de Meursault, and others, will understand that these were, to all intents and purposes, the perfect super-spreader events. Let’s not even think about the rumours of the falsified covid-certificates at some of the gatherings.

I chose to leave Beaune for Bern on the weekend of the Vent des Vins, returning to the quieter side of Beaune on the Tuesday that followed. The wine auction was well-organised and with good spacing between the participants – it’s the extra-curricular events that have been the issue – the Trois not so Glorieuses in 2021!

weekend wines – week 48 2021…

By billn on December 06, 2021 #degustation

2016 Chablisienne, Chablis Grenouilles
A wide and attractively open nose – at first sniff the slightly exotic fruit might pull you away from Chablis but its purity and a growing seashore note might bring you back on course. In the mouth, this is proper Chablis – but of concentration – impressive minerality and depth of flavour that is very ‘2016’ – and I happen to be a very big fan of 2016. Not quite to the level of Bessin’s great 16 Valmur – but really super wine, almost a great wine!
Rebuy – Definitely!

1996 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges Les Lavières
Quite some amber, there’s some age to this colour. The nose is actually quite an invitation; it’s clean, nicely showcasing some dried leaves, even a little cooking herbs – it’s lovely. Mouth-filling, plenty pf acidity but with waves of finishing flavour. A wine that has little to do with fruit today, yet is really absorbing and rather tasty too.
Rebuy – Maybe

2019 Verret, Saint-Bris Veaupiery
This nose is a little tight, with some sweetness and a ‘clean’ impression, perhaps a little ripe mirabelle at the base. Hmm, that’s a hint of sweet but not too sweet, delicious fruit. Mouth-filling and vibrant – lovely energy. That’s a great wine, and in 2019 it’s not so much ‘sauvignon’ as simply ‘delicious.’
Rebuy – Yes

October Report Online

By billn on December 02, 2021 #reports

October 2021 Burgundy Report
October’s Burgundy Report – now online.

Here

2020 White Burgundy Part 1:
Two from Bouzeron and the rest from the Mâconnais – the first vintage with 1er Crus in the Mâconnais!

My roundup of the statistics and my overall impression of the vintage to come when I publish the ‘White Burgundy Part 2’ with the white domaines of the Côte de Beaune. But, hopefully, there’s something here for you to get your teeth into while waiting for that. White Burgundy Part 3 will be my usual trip to Chablis in January!

Cheers to all…

2005 – Cornu’s Savigny villages – Les Saucours

By billn on December 01, 2021 #degustation

Cornu 2005 Savigny Saucours

2005 Cornu, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Saucours
Plenty of colour, though it’s starting to show some age. This nose starts compact but clean, fine, with a little brown sugar, slowly a few floral references too. Ooh – that’s very direct and narrow to start with but it’s also beautifully silky too. The flavour broadening out in the finish, slightly metallic but in a good way and of good depth too! The flavours here are still quite tight but structurally/texturally this is very sophisticated, silky, Savigny. Day 2 and this wine is better on all fronts – fuller, more floral aromas and fuller more saline flavours. There’s even some nice red fruit! I still have the impression of a little metallic lilt to these flavours but it’s not excessive. Still, I’d probably consider waiting at least 2-or-3 more years before opening another of these – the quality implies excellent but remains largely latent for this cru, for now…
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – bruno clavelier’s 2019s

By billn on November 30, 2021 #the market

So many new offers in time for Christmas! This one hot off the presses…

Bruno Clavelier 2019:
With previous year’s prices for the 2018s, 2017s & 2016s (from the same merchant) in brackets. — indicates ‘not offered’:

Bourgogne Passetoutgrains 2019 75cl 23.50* (22.50, 22.50, —) (Swiss francs)

Vosne-Romanée La Combe Brûlée 2019 75cl 95.00 (90.00, 80.00, 84.00)
Vosne-Romanée Les Hautes Maizières 2019 75cl 95.00 (90.00, 80.00, 84.00)

Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru 2019 75cl 140.00 (135.00, 120.00, 123.00)
Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru 2019 75cl 155.00 (150.00, 130.00, 137.00)
Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 1er Cru 2019 75cl 155.00 (150.00, 130.00, 137.00)
Chambolle-Musigny Combe d’Orveaux 1er Cru 2019 75cl 170.00 (160.00, 140.00, 147.00)

Corton Le Rognet V.V. Grand Cru 2019 75cl 165.00 (155.00, 135.00, 144.00)

These prices are not delivered but do include the Swiss 7.7% purchase tax.

des Croix – Beaune 1er Pertuisots – 2010

By billn on November 28, 2021 #degustation

David Croix 2010 Beaune Pertuisots

2010 des Croix, Beaune 1er Pertuisots
Not a lot more than medium colour. A wine that was impossibly floral-perfumed before bottling – today it starts only with fruit – but very fine and pure red berry fruit. Give it enough time and there are flowers too – a smooth lilac impression. Mouth-filling, full of acidic zip but that’s balanced with a modest fat to the texture. At this age the tannin is almost completely submerged – certainly, there’s no grain – just a width of gorgeous and precise flavour – a little fuller and seemingly more concentrated as the wine warms in the glass. I slightly prefer the cooler zip – but I’m splitting hairs. A beauty – bravo – and no rush for my magnums I think 😉 Day two, the wine’s a bit more direct and intense – a little spiced too – so, enjoy it at its maximum on day 1!
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – drouhin-laroze 2019

By billn on November 28, 2021 #the market

DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE 2019 – En Primeur
In brackets are the prices of the 2018s, 2017s and 2016s, from the same offers in previous years, from the same merchant. — means not offered…

Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs 2019 75cl 59.00* (55.00, 49.50, 49.50) Swiss Francs
Chambolle-Musigny 2019 75cl 68.00 (—)
Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut-St-Jacques 1er Cru 2019 75cl — (69.50, 69.00, 65.00)

GRAND CRUS
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2019 75 cl 139.00 (135.00, 125.00, 119.00)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2019 75cl — (139.00, 129.00, 125.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2019 75cl 179.00 (168.00, 149.00, 145.00)
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2019 150cl 363.00 (—)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2019 75cl 205.00 (188.00, 165.00, 158.00)
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2019 150cl 415.00 (—)
Musigny Grand Cru 2019 75cl 650.00 (—)

In their latest offer, some of the 2018 grand crus have even been discounted; the Chappelle, Bonnes-Mares and the Bèze now 119.00, 144.00 and 159.00 respectively! This remains a domaine with reasonable pricing – in today’s overheating market – yet with more variable wines than many other domaines. For instance, I would always pay the premium and take the same wine (when available) from Bruno Clair or even Louis Jadot…

*There is 7.7% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices

New Beaune Hotel…

By billn on November 27, 2021 #travels in burgundy 2021

New Beaune hotel in the works...

Having mentioned the Hotel Le Montrachet this week, more centrally in the Côte d’Or, I can tell you that there is a new hotel in the works Beaune.

I’ve always loved this great old building a stone-throw away from the Hospices de Beaune but also always been saddened that it has lain empty and seemingly unloved – but for a few weeks now, things have been afoot.

I’d always assumed that the building belonged to the Drouhin family as it was connected behind their offices in Rue d’Enfer – so this week, when tasting together, I asked Véronique Drouhin about it: “Yes, it’s a building that is owned by the family but the work isn’t us. We’ve leased out the building to a company that is developing a hotel – there won’t be a lot of rooms, maybe 15-18 – a kind of boutique hotel I think. We’re really looking forward to seeing the place being used.

I’m also looking forward to a new place in Beaune, central and with plenty of parking in front. Hopefully, other absentee landlords will get the hint as there are too many great buildings languishing, seemingly forgotten, in Beaune today.

Burgundy Report

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