Entries from 2022

Alice & Olivier de Moor 2020 Bourgogne Chitry

By billn on December 30, 2022 #degustation

de Moor 2020 Bourgogne Chitry

2020 Alice & Olivier de Moor, Bourgogne Chitry
Medium lemon-yellow colour. The nose has a hint of yeastiness – common for here and an echo of apple too – but it’s still a fresh nose of citrus energy and very inviting. Really mouth-filling, full of energy and that slightly malic (apple) acidity – but so juicy and so moreish. A mineral clarity to these flavours – absolutely delicious – a wine that drinks far too quickly. It’s also one of the rare 2020s I bought with no green pyrazines at this stage – thank goodness! Delicious stuff!
Rebuy – Yes

1998 Dominique Laurent, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques

By billn on December 28, 2022 #degustation

Dominique Laurent Gevrey Clos Saint Jacques

1998 Dominique Laurent, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
The cork is wet with wine through its length – spongy too – but it comes out in one piece and the wine is in good shape.
Not much more than medium colour with plenty of more amber colour at the rim. What was once a hint ashy is now a nose of width and more refinement – there’s still an echo of smokiness about this fruit but it’s very inviting. Broad – there’s really some mouth-filling width to this wine. A couple of mm of cushion to this texture and tannin that’s all but assimilated. Then comes the burst of finishing flavour – for a CSJ this is very powerful so probably not a wine you will finish in one sitting. Just a hint of blood-iron and more than a hint of salinity to this finishing flavour. No shirking violet this wine but it’s a pleasure! Luckily it’s not my last 98 and I may have a few 99s too 😉
Rebuy – Yes

still popping the christmas corks…

By billn on December 27, 2022 #degustation

Wines from yesterday – the holiday season progresses!

2018 Jean-René Nudant, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Folatières
Quite a deep colour – more so than the 2-day-old last glass of the 2012 Les Preuses – which was anyway dead! Depth and some concentration to this ripe, golden-fruit nose – a vibration of energy with some barrel too. Mouthfilling, supple with fine texture and quite some saline intensity. Impressive energy but, for me, not that drinkable today as there’s quite a bit of creme-brulee from the barrel. Of all the 2018s opened in the last days, this is the one that’s clearly being drunk too young. Whilst there’s clearly more oak on display than would be my preference, there will surely be more balance in 2-3 years – on the other hand, you have to balance that with taking a risk over the natural cork seal…
Rebuy – No

1999 Sylvain Cathiard, Romanée St.Vivant
The second from this domaine in the last days – but 10 years younger than the Suchots! Ooh – not a nose of power, but what beautiful clarity and energy – really beautiful fruit here with occasional flashes of floral perfume too – this is such a fine invitation. Direct, crystalline flavour – purity like the nose – but here’s a wine that’s only just getting going, broadening out over the palate. Architecturally structured but nothing that’s hard, just endlessly inviting. Grand wine and a wine that’s really far too easy to drink. Absolutely ready yet still with quite a young fruit profile, so no leftovers for day 2 here!
Rebuy – Yes

The changes at Louis Latour…

By billn on December 26, 2022 #producer update

The news is 2-weeks old but still worth noting here.

Following the death of Louis-Fabrice Latour (right) during this year’s harvest, the news regarding succession was shared with the workforce in Beaune on Friday 9th December and then officially disseminated outside of their organisation the following week – while I was actually at the domaine to taste.

It’s a cosmetic thing, but one ‘rule’ of succession will no longer be followed – that the name of the head of Louis Latour actually being Louis. Louis-Fabrice took over as head of the company in 1999 from his father, Louis – as it was for many generations. With the leadership of the group now passing to the brother of Louis-Fabrice – Florent Latour – we can see that times and needs have changed. Florent is the new Chairman of the Management Board and he will assume operational control of the company – visually, and from many angles, Florent shows remarkable similarities to his brother.

Born and raised in Beaune, Florent holds an MBA from Harvard Business School and was working in the technology industry in the US, where he lived with his wife and children. Both internal and external communication majors on a significant part of Florent’s new role being the preparation of the next generation to take on the operational management of the company. Fingers are pointing to another ‘rule’ of succession changing – not only may Florent’s replacement (also) not have the name Louis – they may also not be a man! 😉

Eventually… Some Christmas day wines…

By billn on December 26, 2022 #degustation

1989 André Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
My last bottle of these labels – the one before ‘Sylvain Cathaird.’ The cork slides out far too easily, soaked to its length in wine – but in one piece!
Medium colour, not with any obvious browning – clean and bright. The nose is still fresh and majoring on fruit – sweet and red – just the faintest spice – of age more than Vosne, I think. A very easy wine to drink, properly ripe but of only modest concentration and complexity. Blind, I’d have positioned this more like a villages than a 1er cru – it didn’t deliver 30 years’ worth of aging complexity, that’s for sure. But it was easy to drink and everyone enjoyed it too.
Rebuy – No

2012 N&G Fèvre, Chablis Les Preuses
Magnum, DIAM-sealed. I thought this might have been ‘ready’ but it was still a little too young…
Fresh, wide and impressive nose – this is clearly Chablis – and there’s some concentration here too – though not showing much development. In the mouth too; taught, nicely structured, tons of mouth-watering flavour but still quite primary in style. Day two (it was a magnum ;-)) showed a bit more fat and also a bit more ripeness to the citrus fruit. Possibly still opened 5 years too young – but in very fine shape. It may have been my only 2012 though…
Rebuy – Yes

2020 des Croix, Bourgogne‘Cuvée L'(?)
During his time at Camille Giroud, David Croix made a couple of Bourgognes labelled ‘Cuvée L.‘ These were an assembly of all the lees of all the (red) wines from Bourgogne to Grand Cru, with extra ageing time to allow the lees to settle. I think my remaining bottles of 2008 may be ‘past it’ but perhaps not the 2010s. Here he did the same in 2020 at des Croix – ‘Are you interested to try one?’ Well, of course! Sealed with and a DIAM cork too – he usually uses only natural cork.
After all the older wines I’ve been drinking – including, this week, one of his 2008s – this dark-coloured wine has such another level of intensity – wow. The flavours and aromas are framed with some creamy oak that’s less to my liking but this has purity, presence and great texture. More ‘2020’ than ‘Burgundy’ – a second bottle might be much more interesting in 10 years…
Rebuy – Maybe

pre-Christmas bottles part-2

By billn on December 25, 2022 #degustation

more pre-christmas bottles

You already met the M&C Lapierre, so time for the other two:

2010 Joseph Roty, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
This case of 12 has almost completely expired – just one, or maybe two, of these remain hidden in the cellar. The cork extracts in one.
Wow – that still smells so pure, clean and deliciously inviting – such a counterpoint to some of the 2019 Beaujolais in my cellar from producers who use next to no sulfur! This wine doesn’t quite have the extravagantly delicious energy that it once showed, but boy is this still a great bottle – despite supporting the base wine of this domaine’s whole range! Clarity of flavour, darker red fruit of energy and precision. Just a very easy but properly shaped wine. For the label, brilliant wine – bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2018 Xavier Monnot, Meursault 1er Les Charmes
A faint toast to this nose slowly gives way to more yellow-citrus elements and a faintly creamy oak. Charmes and from 18 too but here is a wine of direction and some structure too. Not a concentrated Charmes but one whose shape and drinkability are never in question – I often complain about the creamy oak taste of many whites – I prefer to taste the wine! – but in this case it’^s just another moreish ‘extra.’ Simply delicious wine.
Rebuy – Yes

the pre-christmas bottles – part 1

By billn on December 24, 2022 #degustation

I thought that I should get the rest of these out of the way before starting on the Christmas holiday period bottles. You already met the dreadful Penfolds and the delightful David Moreau, so:

The 2018 whites theme continues – over Christmas too 😉

2018 Céline & Frederic Gueguen, Chablis 1er Vosgros
Here the nose invites with such an obvious expression of salinity – super! Bright and energetic in the mouth with a slightly direct intensity and tons of purity. That was a super wine and on that was far too quickly drunk. Excellent stuff!
Rebuy – Yes

2018 Julien Brocard, Chablis Boissonneuse
A rounder nose so less intense than the Gueguen. In the mouth less muscled but I sense a wine that’s becoming more taught than was once the case – I’m liking this more and more with a bit of cellar time. I would probably still say Chablis, blind tasted so that’s a good thing. Very much enjoyed.
Rebuy – Maybe

1997 Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton
A cork that was stained for much of its length with wine but coming out in one piece.
Hmm, now that’s a rather attractive and involving nose of faintly spiced, complex red fruit – that’s very lovely! Open, indeed almost panoramic flavour – the merest suggestion of structure – certainly not with any ‘Corton-austerity.’ Balanced and drinking beautifully right now – for at least 5 years now, the higher 1997s have been drinking beautifully. A subtly long finish too. Lovely!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 des Croix, Beaune 1er Grèves
DC was one of my last visits in December to taste 21s. I mentioned that I was thinking of making a start on my 2008s of his – I’ve some bottles and magnums – to which he, almost apologetically said ‘Okay, but the 2008s were not my finest hour.’ Well, let’s see – but the cork did break into 2 on extraction…
Medium colour. The nose is fine – indeed nicely inviting – so no problem from the cork. In the mouth, this is rather good – quite easy drinking for Grèves – but there’s a bit more cushioning fat than is often the case (currently) with 2008s. We both enjoyed this over 2 nights – so no problem here – very good wine.
Rebuy – Maybe

The 2021 White Burgundy Vintage – A Very Modern Classic – Part 2

By billn on December 23, 2022 #reports

Online now for subscribers – I’ve only had time for this and a glass of Beaujolais today 🙂


Lapierre’s 2021 Le Beaujolais…

By billn on December 22, 2022 #degustation

M&C Lapierre 2021 Le Beaujolais

Out of (drinking) order – the rest of the bottles from this week are still to come – but as I have this in my glass now…

2021 M&C Lapierre, Le Beaujolais
I still don’t know what I was thinking when I so enthusiastically tasted this wine in February – it was so juicily delicious and I had to have some. All the bottles at home have, however, shown quite a high pyrazine content, though if you can get past that – or are not sensitive to it (80%+ of people) then this remains a delicious and juicily red-fruited thing of just enough textural cushioning and silk to balance the energy – so good in fact that I’m still drinking it myself – it’s still a great wine for, mainly, other people!!
Rebuy – No

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