Tasted in Poinchy with Isabelle Pommier, 24 January 2024.
Domaine Isabelle & Denis Pommier
31 Rue de Poinchy
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 83 04
www.denis-pommier.com
Isabelle’s Instagram
More reports with Domaine I&D Pommier
Isabelle on the 2023 vintage:
“In 33 years and we’ve never seen 2 consecutive vintages with such volume – for the moment all is fine with the 2023s, the fermenetaions went quite well – so let’s see.”
Isabelle on the 2022 vintage:
“We love 2022! We are just starting to do some bottling – a bit earlier than usual as we had so little wine from 2021 – but much will be bottled from March. We are happy with the wines – we like the salinity they show and their freshness – yes!”
The wines…
A lovely range – the 1er crus were singing – all excellent!
DIAM used here:
2022 Bourgogne Grain de Survie
From Volgre and Champvallon, about 20 km away – vines in their second year of organic conversion – a contract. ‘We buy the whole harvest and make here. A mix of wood and tank elevage – we had no problems with the colour in 22!’
Easy, pretty red fruit. Lots of width over the palate then – depth too. Juicy red fruit finishing. Tasty wine of purity and nice length- Lovely!
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Domaine vines, 60% wood elevage. Bottled yesterday – all was lost in the frost of 21. Vines 10km away in Venoy – on Portlandian stone.
Less colour but a more comforting red fruit nose. Hmm – that’s got a little extra silk to the texture. Lighter red fruit and fills the mouth – again juicy fruit of more width and even a little cooking herb complexity too – longer finishing.
2022 Irancy
Not yet bottled – probably May-June. All barrel elevage.
A narrower nose but of fine depth. More linear in flavour style and silky again. There’s a faint tannin from this but with no grain – similar in flavour profile to the previous Bourgogne but with more intensity and intent. Nice wine.
2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay Grain de Survie
A mix of tank and some wood – it’s a new cuvée
A good breadth of aroma here. Supple but fresh, some generosity. That’s got a great finish though – clean, intense and holding – yum!
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Beurot Gran de Survie
Pinot Gris with some barrel elevage with a last part of aging in tank. Harvested before the chardonnay
A more airy breadth of aroma, the depth has the impression of more concentration. Some gas in this but it’s fuller in the mouth than the previous chardonnay. I like this, it’s still got lots of salinity and a fine width. Lovely wine.
Les Chablis:
2022 Petit Chablis Hautérivien
Hautérivien is near Villy but there are some other parcels here too – totalling 10 hectares.
Higher toned freshness. Round in the mouth but still underpinned by a more linear, modestly mineral base. The finish is lovely, quite broad and with good energy. Lovely wine.
2022 Chablis
2 types of soil, half Portlandian – mainly from Ligny – the rest on Kimmerigian and younger vines like the last – around 25 years.
Hmm, this starts with a waft of higher-toned perfume. Mouth-filling, just a suggestion of generosity , but really an accommodating shape and slowly mouth-watering style to the flavours. Broader and more intense in the finish. I really like this finishing flavour – yum!
2022 Chablis Les Reinettes
30-year-old vines on Kimmerigian – the end of Cote de Lechets looking towards Poinchy. Not yet bottled, all tank elevage.
A more airy nose focusing more on the mineral aspects of the wine but always ‘sweetened’ by a little citrus and flowers. This is much more direct and mineral. Supple in the middle, nicely textured – this is a very lovely Chablis very classy!!
2022 Chablis Croix au Moines
Over 55-year-old vines a massale selection. A cuvée name like the last – from the same area as the last wine but from the top of the slopes. This bottled, usually there’s a little oak used here but not for this vintage.
Plenty of freshness and suggesting some florals too. A deeper and quite wide flavour profile – more supple and more generous. This becomes more intense in the finish. And holds much longer that the Reinettes – but I slightly prefer the energy of that wine compared to this – but still, this finishes deliciously.
2022 Chablis 1er Troismes
Prior to 2016 the domaine labelled this as Beauroy. ‘From the heart of Beauroy.’
Hmm – this nose has my attention – high toned and pure but with fine supporting depth too. Direct, cool fruit, still a small cushion and apparent generosity. Clean lines, sweeping flavour – that’s excellent – vibrantly finishing too!
2022 Chablis 1er Côte de Lechets
Very old vines, around 70…
Freshness and flowers from this pure nose. Extra width and energy, lots of energy. The fruit more yellow citrus and bubbly in style. Absolutely delicious and the finish creeps up on you – just getting better and better – if a little sweet. I prefer Troesmes but this is a honey!
2022 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A bit less width but here is an aroma that focuses on the mineral – and it’s lovely. Broad over the palate, silky, a mm of cushion, but still with a tension that holds you close. This is very lovely – contemplative in style – excellent wine!
And to finish:
2021 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Almost a little confit aspect to this yellow citrus after the 22s. More mineral, still broad, you see a little development too – there’s also extra finishing intensity here – less contemplation vs the 22 but slightly sweeter finishing. Quite different and maybe I’ve a slight preference for the 22 – but not by much!