Tasted in Beine with Florent Dauvissat, 15 January 2024.
Domaine Agnes et Didier Dauvissat
Chemin de Beauroy
89800 Beine
Tel: + 33 3 86 42 46 40
www.domainedauvissat.fr
More reports with Domaine Agnès et Didier Dauvissat
Florent on 2023:
“2023 was a complicated year – one that I was happy to finish! We had a lot mildew that dried many grapes – which doesn’t affect the quality of the wine like oïdium – but finally it wasn’t a significant problem. I had more problems with broken-down tractors this year. Just a little less volume than 2022 but nothing significant.”
Florent on 2022:
“Like in 2023 it was almost a full vintage – we are happy when we are full! 2022 has a bit less acidity than 21 and 23 is a bit more simple at this stage – let’s see for that. I harvested slightly early to keep the acidity – I don’t want to acidify. The wines are all bottled I even started selling early because I had so little 2021 – 2/3rds are already sold. I’m happy with them – they are actually a bit more open now than how some of the 21s are currently tasting.”
The wines…
I do feel that the average quality at this domaine is slowly rising. The petit Chablis here has always been a standout wine – but these days, it’s not alone!
Corks for the 1er crus, DIAM equivalents for PC and Chablis – non-oaked. ‘The lower price of the synthetics have allowed us to spend more on higher-quality corks for the other wines.’
An assembly of parcels, on either side of the plateau of Beines, near Vauligneau and above the grand crus..
The first sniff is modest, the second and the wine has already opened and added some perfume – nice. Hmm – lovely minerality over the palate – juicy and melting with a nice structure – this is just too delicious and slightly floral in the finish – this already drinking beautifully – bravo!
2022 Chablis Les Brêches de Fyé
5.5 ha of Chablis in total – this representing 3 of those hectares in Fyé, almost a continuation of Blanchots, just below the plateau of Petit Chablis – the lieu-dit is Les Brechins, this name pre-dates that.
A more linear nose with extra herbed notes. Broader, slightly more incisive and structural – still melting over the palate – here with lots of salinity and a long, tasty, finish. This to wait for – 1-2 years – but it’s very good and it’s classic Chablis!
2022 Chablis Les Petits Vignerons
Not made since 2018 – an assembly of old vines, now principally from Courgis – one-third with wood elevage the rest tank.
Good freshness. Mouth-filling – there’s concentration here to see, despite the energy. Ooh – the middle and finishing flavours are more direct, mineral too. That’s delicious but not the same! It’s a super wine – give it a year-or-so – and enjoy – it’s excellent!
2022 Chablis 1er Beauroy
2 hectares of vines in a single parcel in Côte de Savant. Pruned at the end of March but not protected by candles – and they made 75% of their normal yields… This with cork (Trescasses) the previous with DIAM.
Here there’s a hint more clarity and freshness, otherwise the nose is very similar to the previous. Extra mouth-filling the clarity of the nose is magnified in the flavours. Properly mineral, modestly saline too. But broad and juicy finishing. Vibrantly finishing with and extra lick of salt – that a great finish. Properly Chablis again !!
The only wine not yet bottled. 500-litre barrel elevage – and one-third was new.
This width of aroma has more sweetness to the fruit – the oak is quite subtle. The flavour of the oak is more obvious today – but what a salty width of finely energetic flavour! I’m no fan of oak but give this 3 years and it could be a great wine – the flavour is already completely delicious. Well done!
And for the road:
Super width and fine clarity. More chiselled and direct – more strict! Ooh – I love it – not quite austere – but nearly. That’s a great, intense, delicious wine – yes – bravo!
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Vines in Montallery. Elevage, half tank and half barrel but not so long in these older barrels – just 6 months. The first harvest of these young vines was in 2020 – a small parcel. 30 hl/ha in both 22 and 23. All destemmed.
An airy breadth of aroma – quite open actually. This has good shape and concentration in the mouth. The flavour is good and there’s an (auto suggestion?) impression of finishing salinity too. Some small, discreet bitters too. This is quite tasty – give it 6-12 months more in the cellar then enjoy.
Cremant
From the same area as the red but here is 100% chardonnay.
Here’s an inviting nose – some ripe small mirabelle. Direct, here are some bitters – it tastes like a wine made with a little skin contact – it’s very tasty. I’d buy a couple for research purposes 🙂