Tasted with Pierre Brissy, Cyril Testut & Julien Brocard in Préhy, 15 January 2024.
Jean-Marc Brocard
3, route de Chablis
89800 Préhy
Tel: +33 3 86 41 49 00
www.brocard.fr
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More reports with Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard
Yes, that could be confusing. My appointment to taste chez Brocard was also combined with my appointment to taste the wines of Cyril Testut:
Cyril explains “I have worked together with Julien for a number of years and we have always had some similar approaches, such that we have eventually decided to work together. So I’m working with Pierre here – working in biodynamics. So I’m still responsible for the winemaking at Testut but also with Pierre, working on the wines of Brocard too. It’s a fusion of our passions!”
Because I tasted the Testut wines, as finished wines in their normal bottles and labels, I will keep them in their own separate report – this year!
Cyril & Pierre on 2022:
“it was a good year and quite balanced – good volumes and some richness but lots of complexity. We didn’t have high degrees – 12.5-13° – and life was quite easy in the cuvérie, where we worked a little on the reductive side. Satisfied- We started harvesting right at the start of September – it was quite hot I remember – some parcels were heat affected, you could see some leaves shriveling. At Testut I waited a little longer for the hydric stress to pass a little. But it’s a vintage that’s properly Chablis – how flattering it is. All the JMB and Testut wines are bottled, though some of the wines of Julien are not yet finished. In these warmer years we’re trying to modify our approach to find the best route between organic and biodynamic, trying to avoid an excess reduction for instance.”
The wines…
Super wines – and as almost every year – the orange-waxed wines of Julien were largely brilliant !!
Since 2011 everything has been in DIAM – “and the customers are happy:”
2022 Petit Chablis
Above Valmur – looking towards Beru – south-facing
Quite perfumed – it’s a nice invitation. Mouth-filling – juicy – delicious. Really super-attractive – almost vin-dangereux! Excellent wine.
2022 Petit Chablis Les Jeunes Terres
This all organic.
Also perfumed – a little heavier here. More impact and concentration – still a fine energy and it’s nicely shaped too – there’s a bit more structure behind this wine – slowly more minerally finishing. Wait a year for this excellent PC!
2022 Chablis
Less perfumed, more mineral aromas. Really mouth-filling in this case – the energy is very impressive and again juicy. Super structure/shape to this wine.
2022 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes de Sainte Claire
This organic.
The nose is very saline . Extra mineral and decently wide. The texture here is quite silky. Then a wave of salinity again. Less overt power than the previous but with a fine, elegant, and overtly Chablis style.
2022 Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis ‘Vignes 1946 Organic‘
A mix of concrete ‘eggs’ and foudres for elevage. Same parcel as the last – vines on the plateau of Prehy. Organic – actually biodynamic – 1946 is the date of the plantation – these are the oldest vines of the domaine and purely by chance the vintage of Jean-Marc
A little narrower but nice clarity and depth too. Bubbling with energy and some extra sucrosity – you can taste the new foudres today – but in 2 years probably not – that’s simply an excellent wine.
2022 Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis 1er Vau de Vey
A deeper, faintly reductive minerality – but very attractive. Larger scale in the mouth – properly mineral – really an overt step up to 1er cru. The nose is smaller but that’s great in the mouth.
2022 Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis 1er Montmains
Just from Montmains.
Another smaller nose – less deep but wider – a subtle complexity – slowly adding some nice citrus as it opens. Large scale again – vibrant and delicious – completely excellent wine.
2022 Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A little more yellow citrus and perhaps with a faint spice this time. Open, melting flavour over the palate – round but mouth-watering – ‘easier’ but no less quality vs the Montmains – the finish is super.
2022 Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
This nose has some finesse despite being more direct. Large in the mouth – a wine that goes in all directions. Chalky and intense finishing flavours – this is a great finish.
2022 Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis 1er Vaulorent
A larger-scale, more open nose again with some complex yellow citrus. Hmm, another lovely minerality here with a couple of mm of cushion – lovely texture. Clean, mineral almost a little orange flesh in these finishing flavours – great finishing again.
2022 Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Valmur
Narrow top notes – lots of depth – a faint oak accent to this. A wine that opens out over the palate – lovely texture once again – the oak is present but in another 2 years you will find the extra complexity rather than the barrels.
2022 Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis Vaudesir
500-litre barrel elevage.
This aromatic profile shares a similar wood note – still fine! Wider and more mineral, still just 1 mm of cushion and the wood here is easier to take today as it’s adding a creamy dimension to the fruit.
Now it’s orange wax time. The biodynamic wines of Julien Brocard ‘Les 7 Lieux:’
Opposite the JMB winery.
A less energetic nose after the GCs – but still a good concentration. Open, still concentrated, lovely richness and depth of flavour for the label – properly mineral finishing. Adeptly following a super Vaudesir – this is clearly a great PC!
Here in 1998 were the domaine’s first tests in biodynamics
A little less forward but with good, clean width in this depth. Fuller, cleaner/cooler in style – very fine definition – the freshness is more overt here. Really broad, modestly generous and completely delicious – another buy for me this year – and the previous.
2022 Julien Brocard, Chablis 1er Vaudevey
This is still in tank.
A little yellow-fruited fizziness is the aromatic impression. Yes some CO2. But behind that is a wine of scale – yellow citrus – maybe the first with some overt zestiness. Super!
Broad, clean, fresh yellow citrus – this is very inviting. A little gas again – but a more open, with a crystalline mineral base. I love it.
2022 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
Here is volume but a little less aromatic engagement – today. Hmm – but that’s a beauty in the mouth – the most overtly mineral, clean and wide wine. Super Chablis !!
One of my wines of the year in the 2017 vintage, more discrete in 2018 but back to form in 2019 and 2020 & 2021 – it seems this year too!
A smaller nose but the engagement is here with some fine floral notes and an open clarity. Plenty of salinity – a wine that’s incisive, concentrated, mineral – almost a little fumé today. Then follows a cascade of mouth-watering finishing flavour – great wine!
For the wines of Cyril Testut – see that domaine separately.