Tasted with Isabelle Collin-Gautheron in Fontenay, 30 January 2024.
Domaine des Quatre Chemins
13, Rue des Puits
89800 Fontenay-Près-Chablis
Tel: +33 6 82 32 25 28
www.domainequatrechemins.com
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Isabelle on 2023:
“For the moment I’m really happy – we have a lot of old vines and it was a good volume but not a super-large volume – I think we selected the best grapes. Fortunately, all was easy in the cuverie – all the fermentations went quite quickly – the malos included. The wines are now racked in tank.”
Isabelle on 2022:
“Not quite a full harvest but the grapes were also lovely quality. So 2022 was also a lovely year – but different to 2023. It was very easy in the vines but a bit less easy in the cuverie as some of the fermentations were slower. Not everything is sold out yet but we’re very happy.”
The wines…
A delicious set of wines – well done Isabelle !!
A DIAM equivalent is used for all the wines:
2022 Petit Chablis
Just a single parcel – this was once classed as Chablis but got declassified in the 70s – from ‘Petit Preuses’ just like at Domaine Roy…
That’s got a lovely freshness with a small accent of florals too – it’s very inviting. Breadth of flavour, modestly sweet but with a salinity too – a middle and finishing flavour that is strong and long. That’s a super PC – well done.
2022 Chablis
A mix of parcels for this wine – a mix of ‘very old and very young’ vines.
Also plenty of fresh width with almost a small fumé note. Good width, and a juicy energy – that’s a super step up from the PC – wide and almost fluid – simply delicious – Excellent wine!
Tasted last year from tank, these were bottled in 2023:
2021 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Elevage and vinification in tank and some 7-8 months in barrel too. Bottled in May 2023. 75% of the elevage in barrel – a mix of 228s and 300s from champagne
Very classic yellow citrus with a golden touch. Saline, vibrantly energetic. That’s a great finish too – love this direct, vibrant, delicious wine – well done! Simply excellent wine.
2021 Chablis Bougros
3 months in 300-litre barrel from 2016 – now in tank.
A rounder nose that shows the oak, slightly creamy too. Hmm, but like the Fourchaume, this has that vibrant 2021 style. Almost a little crème brulee from the barrel today but this is outrageously delicious too. Wait 3-4 years to reduce the barrel flavour – but I could drink this with pleasure already – that’s two super 21s!!