the end of may update…

By billn on June 01, 2019 #vintage 2019

Time for an end of May round-up:

I show you the pictures of my iris(s) only to emphasise the point – they are between 6 and 10 days later blooming than last year. Last year they only had another week of nice blooms before they were starting to look a little tired, but this year not all the varieties have flowered yet – perhaps over the weekend as +26°C is forecast.

It’s quite similar in Burgundy.

At the end of March – in-line with most recent vintages – the vineyards were warm and the buds were swelling. For all intents and purposes, we were ahead of the curve (the average) and could easily have been looking at another late-August, early-September harvest – that was before the April’s, and indeed most of May’s, weather.

April brought a number of frosty nights and generally colder weather than March – March often brought temperatures above 22°C – not a single day was above 20° in April – and 12° was closer to the norm. A cohesiveness of vignerons never previously seen was in action in the Côte d’Or choosing to ‘fight’ the frost; candles, bales of straw – you name it, it was burnt – including many sausages at impromptu barbecues, including one near Echézeaux – even Aubert de Villaine joined in the 9.00am drinks on the 14 April, though perhaps imbibing less than some who got home at 11 am and promptly went to bed to sleep it all off!

Most people seem to have seen more damage in the first week of April (05-06), despite most of the buds not being open – the worst has been in the Mâconnais with (possibly) an average of 30% losses – though depending on your place – much more or much less. The Côte de Nuits, Côte Chalonnaise and Beaujolais Crus have hardly been affected – though southern Beaujolais has losses, mainly in the chardonnay – but the bottom of the slopes in the Côte de Beaune and certainly the unprotected areas in Chablis will have suffered – it was a very classic Spring Frost this year, right into May too. Until the fruit-set, post-flowering, we can’t really say much more about what degree of damage.

As noted, May was also uncharacteristically cold – some more bales of hay were burned – often questionably, as it wasn’t even minus temperatures! But properly warm May weather didn’t return until practically the end of the month – this brought a few outliners of flowering in sheltered but sunny spots, but real flowering – up and down the Côte d’Or – will be something for the first week to 10 days of June 2019. For now, harvesting looks like a mid-September operation…

Fortunately, April and May brought some welcome rain – the winter and spring have been very dry. This in itself isn’t a problem – but if the near drought summer conditions of 2017 & 2018 are to be repeated, then there will be some problems. For now, the rest is conjecture and the summer has finally begun…

out to lunch…

By billn on May 31, 2019 #travel

It’s something of a long-weekend in Switzerland, so I was forced out of the house – to eat freshly caught lake fish. Okay, ‘forced’ is an exaggeration – It’s my most favourite lunch and lunch place!

mid-weekers…

By billn on May 31, 2019 #degustation

The grip of my cold is loosening – I can smell and taste okay – just the odd bout of coughing now – I might even start jogging over the weekend! To ease me into the grander wines, maybe a couple of ‘easy ones?’ It turns out more complicated than that!

2017 Domaine Passeloup, Pierres Dorées Chardonnay
Slightly creamy, heavily laden with exotic fruit and core of ripe lemon fruit – it’s definitely not from Chablis! Wide, unctuous, but also rather mineral and saline. Unlike most from the region, there’s no rigour, no harshness, to this mineral side, in fact, it’s rather good. The first half is not my style of wine, the second is quite good!. Far from my usual chardonnay tipple, but I can drink a glass of this – possibly two! A slightly warmer sip seemed alcoholic – not nice – keep this cool! I’m still not quite sure what I saw in this wine the first time around…
Rebuy – No

2010 Chezeaux/Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin
Ooh, that’s rather deeply coloured for 2010. A big nose, of soil and graphite, but with forward dark-red fruit too – dare I say very Gevrey! It’s a super invitation. Concentrated and really rather silky – graphite again in the mid-to-finishing flavours. Mouth-watering in the finish too. This is top class villages – concentrated, fresh, clean and with a little panache, despite the concentration. Young but wonderful villages wine…
Rebuy – Yes

april’s burgundy report now online…

By billn on May 29, 2019 #reports

Clos des Grands VignesThe new April 2019 Burgundy Report online: Here

350 wines – still mainly 2017 and with a Marsannay and Echézeaux focus – but some 2018s are also now starting to creep into the mix. Then there are the newly profiled domaines and many magnums of older Beaujolais tasted. You know it makes sense 🙂

I can see some new issues with the site when subscribers login – they go directly to an admin page (so have to click top-right onto ‘visit site’ to get back to where you should be), instead of the page they should see – that’s going to take a week to fix as my ‘technician’ is on holiday – c’est la vie!

offer of the day – domaine leflaive 2017 mâcon + rully

By billn on May 28, 2019 #the market

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2017 – Puligny-Montrachet
Mâcon-Verzé 2017 75cl 33.00 (Swiss francs*)
Mâcon-Verzé Les Chênes 2017 75cl 38.00
Mâcon-Verzé Le Monté 2017 75cl 38.00
Pouilly-Fuissé 2017 75cl 49.00
Rully 1er Cru Leflaive & Associés 2017 75cl 49.00
Image, right, ex-Domaine Leflaive

*As each year from the same merchant. These prices are delivered in Switzerland, without the additional 8% Swiss purchase tax which you should include. The Pouilly-Fuissé and the Rully were previously offered (same price, September 2018) so are presumably not sold out – it’s the first time that I saw the Mâcons offered though. Of these, I tasted only the Mâcon-Verzey Le Chêne when at the domaine in October 2018.

Good as the wines undoubtedly are, the Leflaive/Puligny tax is about 50%(+) versus fine makers from those regions…

weekend wines, week 21 2019

By billn on May 27, 2019 #degustation

A modest report of modest labels but a couple of beauties nonetheless – my cold pairing down the notes to a sub-minimum:

2016 Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne
Good colour. Depth of concentration, really good texture. Balanced and excellent – the quality punches well above the label.
Rebuy – Yes

2017 Domaine Faiveley, Ladoix
Ohh, here is a proper white burgundy – just faintly oaked but with poise and drive – tension even! One bottle is not enough!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Clotilde Davaenne, Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Clearly more coloured than the Ladoix. Good drive, the impression of a little caramel to the flavours. Unfortunately put into the shade by the Ladoix, which it followed. Otherwise a good wine.
Rebuy – Maybe

moulin à vent with just a little jazz today…

By billn on May 25, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

Lunch in the Auberge du Col des Truges, a little walk around Saint-Joseph, a cola in Fleurie – and then it was the the ‘Jazz in Moulin à Vent.’ Thirteen domaines showing their wines – I think I ‘tasted’ all of them – by that, I mean that they were in my glass – but with my cold I couldn’t tell you if it was red or black fruit or flowers – but I could still spot the good ones!

The forecast for today was bad all week, but we had dry – hooray – until about 15 minutes before the first band should have been on stage – typical! 21h30 we were underway back to Beaune before the music had begun – a shame but c’est la vie…

Still a great day…

just a little beaune this afternoon

By billn on May 24, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

Coffee, cakes – the usual stuff!

I started with a cold on Wednesday evening, yesterday a sore throat but I was still tasting well – but today – I can work out the temperature and balance but no more. Lucky my 110 wines, blind tasted, were yesterday! Hence, coffee and cakes 🙂

Burgundy Report

Translate »

You are using an outdated browser. Please update your browser to view this website correctly: https://browsehappy.com/;