a day of mâconnais and pierres dorées…

By billn on May 22, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

I think the sun returned today – 23.5°C – that’s the first time since the second half of March! My visits were a homage to Chardonnay Day, though I’ll admit – one day early:

After my morning tasting of Mâconnais, I decided to jog up to the top of the Rock of Solutre – kind of disappointed that it turned out to be only 1.4 km – in my memory, it was more! Still, the distance was double as there’s also only one way down 🙂 The afternoon brought a visit to Thivin’s Clos de Rochebonne in the Pierres Dorées* region of Beaujolais – their white wine, of course! Though I should note that contrary to the ethos of Chardonnay Day, Claude Geoffray has a little Gouais Blanc planted in the vineyard – well, I suppose we could say that it’s chardonnay’s mum (or dad!)

Of-course much more about today’s visits in my May Report, for subscribers…
*Did you know that ‘La Pierre Dorée’ is a commercial brand of ‘industrially produced’ cheese in France? Who would have thought!?

a little weekend wine – week 20 2019

By billn on May 21, 2019 #degustation

2014 Jean-Marc Vincent, Puligny-Montrachet Corvées des Vignes
Plenty of colour. A nose that’s vibrant but also has a little rubbery reduction about it – for the 36 hours that this was open, it hardly faded. Wide, fresh, energetic, lovely acidity – penetrating flavour with super depth – moreish despite that same reductive note showing on the nose. Lovely but surely even better without the reduction…
Rebuy – Maybe

2017 Chasselay, Beaujolais La Platière
What to follow a Griotte-Chambertin with?
Ooh – that’s a deep, dark colour. The nose is a little yeasty and reductive – but what a panorma of flavour. Juicy dark fruit, layers of flavour. Fine freshness and lovely finishing. A hit!
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Gilles Bouton, Blagny 1er Sous le Puits
Hardly medium colour, also starting to show some age. A forward nose, showing some leafy development but essentiLly fresh and correct. Wide, open, bright and fresh – lip smackingly good flavour of acid-led freshness and fine depth and complexity – anonymously starting but opening with plenty pf interest. Essentially not much to start, but finishing with lots of fun, lots of flavour. Not as good as a decent 2010 villages from a proper red-wine village though…
Rebuy – No

2004 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
Plenty of colour here, but the nose is completely lacking any oxidation – there’s the first early suggestion of ‘older’ chardonnay aroma, and just a touch of asparagus too – I’ve met plenty of asparagus in 2011 Chablis, but this is a first in the Côte d’Or! The asparagus is present, if fainter, on the palate too. The palate has drive and an intense minerlity – I’m impressed, yet, this wine could do with a little more sucrosity – it’s hardly moreish. Good, indeed impressive, but certainly not great – other than intellectually…
Rebuy – No

2016 de Serrigny, Savigny lès Beaune Blanc
Ooh – that’s an attractive and inviting nose of creamy, sweet citrus I don’t mind if I do! In the mouth round but with rippling acidity, sweet citrus and a delicious, faintly oak-tinged flavour ensemble. Absolutely stunning for the price – über-delicious!
Rebuy – Yes

some old wines…

By billn on May 20, 2019 #degustation#events

clos des perrières

Meursault 1er Clos des Perrières – 2017-1928
A day in Beaune today – despite the grey skies, it was one of those special days in Beaune. A privilege to taste wines back to 1928 – ostensibly white wine – but good enough that Lalou Bize-Leroy was coming back for extra sips. So many highlights!

Of course all will be in my May report – but first, it’s time to finish April’s!

icymi: a good, and growing, wine-science library…

By billn on May 17, 2019 #a bit of science#in case you missed it

The sulfur chemistry article is new – yesterday. I’m finding this a good resourse of well-presented, relatively accessible, wine science articles:

er, really…?

By billn on May 16, 2019 #the market

Amazing that a (relatively) local auction house considers that this brace, to be worth many thousands of Swiss francs. Actually they have an estimate of 6,000-10,000 francs!

One horribly oxidised and the other in the lap of the gods – but maybe also with a ‘hint’ of oxidisation – not looking good, eh?!

Here.

leclerc’s 2002 griotte

By billn on May 16, 2019 #degustation

2002 Chézeaux/René Leclerc, Griotte-Chambertin
The extra-long cork comes out with a satisfying pop, but the end of the cork doesn’t smell nice – I’m anticipating brett or similar – drat – I have at least a couple more of these made by Leclerc plus two or three from Ponsot of the same vintage. I think of Leclerc as making better wines in 02 than today, fortunately the cork couldn’t have been more misleading – this turned out really well!
The nose – well there’s a toasty oak-style reduction here, but essentially this clean, attractive, wine with a bloody iron impression to good fruit. The smoky reduction is on the palate too – but it’s a palate of good energy and even nicer fruit with a lovely energy – you could drink this way too quickly! Less than half a bottle makes into day 2 (I was the only one drinking this) and the reduction – both aroma and taste – are gone. The freshness is still there and the aromas haven’t developed anything unwanted. The intensity is good and there’s a nice cushioning. This is holding up very well – exceedingly tasty wine – I’m now happy that I have more!
Rebuy – Yes at the old price!

‘the magnificent seven’ – the measly montrachet 2016 follow-up

By billn on May 15, 2019 #the market#vintage 2016

I gave you this update, almost 1 year ago. Finally there is something concrete:

600 bottles are to be distributed, though some will be kept back by the domaines. Wax-topped, in special presentation boxes and all will wear the same label: “L’Exceptionelle Vendange des Sept Domaines“. It’s unsurprising, given that they had to take out a négoce licence so as to do the elevage, that all this work is being undertaken by the Domaine Leflaive, despite that their name is not on the label – but it’s the same level of anonymity for all the seven owners who contributed grapes.

The domaines and their distributors were tasked with picking suitable names from their client lists – to honour those chosen, with the possibility to buy a bottle. I haven’t received a letter – not yet anyway!

And the price? As always, if you need to ask… But just entre-nous, €5,500 the bottle when exported – or €6,600 including French tax. That’s nearly double the price, for those on the list, of a 2016 Romanée-Conti. Keep an eye out for your letter…

Oh, and what do you guess – cork or DIAM? 😉

starting the week with…

By billn on May 15, 2019 #degustation

1995 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Roncières
Plenty of colour here – of-course colour with some age! The nose is forward, pepper-spiced and even a little creosote to this complex and inviting whole – clean though, there’s no brett. Nice volume in the mouth, still with some tannin but the sweetness of fruit is the perfect foil for that – strawberry-fruited long flavour – ooh that’s good – fine freshness and involving, tasty flavour and ready now! I have a general feeling of respect for this domaine, but rarely do I find the wines delicious – but this one is – and it only needed 24 years! This drank effortlessly well over 2 days.
Rebuy – Yes

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