film: a year in burgundy

By billn on September 14, 2012 #other sites

The first review of this film – and it seems rather positive.
As I understand it, those who buy the DVD will get a longer film and much more info…
[Archived]

tollot-beaut 2008 savigny-lès-beaune 1er les lavières

By billn on September 13, 2012 #degustation

tollot-beaut-savigny-lavieres-2008

What a coincidence – I find one of these in the cellar but don’t have my camera to hand, so look if I’ve a photo from a previous T-B Lavières – lo and behold, almost exactly one year ago, the same wine! Maybe I should start to ‘research’ before I pop the cork! Oh well! As a footnote, this is now a little narrower and sleeker, I was also too late to buy some magnums…

2008 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières
Deep, dark, squeeky-clean fruit with just a little vanilla to add weight. There is still plenty of comfy texture, dovetailed to fine acid-borne intensity – the last note remains a hint of vanilla-infused rock – the tannin is still completely submerged in its fine-ness. I think it’s lost just a little fat in the last year, but it remains very drinkable – very!
Rebuy – Yes

in the côtes…

By billn on September 09, 2012 #picture gallery#travel#travel pics

A bit ‘gushing’ 😉 but a nice piece all the same. [Archived]

And here are a few little pics taken from inside the Clos de Vougeot on Friday…

‘Super-Jacques’ plus something beige…

By billn on September 06, 2012 #degustation#other sites

“I’m not after technical perfection. I don’t have much time for the Australian approach, where the ideal wine is the most neutral. It’s easy to clean up a wine, but by removing faults, unless they’re truly detrimental, you also remove its life. I understand the impulse oenologists have for the cleanest wines possible, but I refuse to go along with it. A wine’s magic doesn’t derive from its technical perfection, and I want to preserve the magic, even though not everyone who tastes the wine will perceive it. Good Burgundies are dynamic wines that make you think and reflect as you drink them. For me that’s all positive.”
Jacques Lardière

If I’m honest, I don’t have that much time for Decanter. That said, more brilliant stuff like this interview of Jacques Lardière by Stephen Brook, and I believe I could be persuaded otherwise – but you try finding this article from their homepage!
[Archived]

gambal-2009-bourgogne-blanc

Another 2009 Bourgogne from Alex – and either it’s the last one or I’ve hidden the others under too many competing bottles – either way, I’m not that fussed! The thing is, after the personality of his 2006-2008 Bourgognes, this comes across a little ‘beige’. That said, it’s probably already time to get aquainted with the 2010!

2009 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Chardonnay
Nice enough, balanced enough, concentrated enough. It misses a single but rather important virtue – personality.
Rebuy – Maybe

Oh! And just when you thought you had everything! It doesn’t seem to be trending yet! 😉

comtes lafon 2008 monthélie les duresses

By billn on September 04, 2012 #degustation

2008 Comtes Lafon, Monthélie 1er Les Duresses
There’s a bit of texture from some dissolved CO2 – I make a quick impression of a racing driver, there’s a ‘phut’ from the end of the bottle (as I remove my finger), and we can carry on. Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a little of that stewed 2008 cabbage impression but’s completely dispersed by a quick swirl – revealed is a dark cherry fruit surrounded with a biscuity note. In the mouth this just lovely – nicely intense dark fruit with a beautiful acid lift in the mid-palate, only just ripe – picked à point! With the lift of acidity, there’s also a flash of frank red fruit. Decent texture with a little furry tannin, finishing with a lovely fresh flavour. Finished rather quickly, it has to be said…
Rebuy – Yes

clerget 1997 meursault chevalières

By billn on September 02, 2012 #degustation

This wine was a great match to a steaming plate of curry! Although the colour looked quite light through the bottle-glass, it was concerningly deep in the glass – yet, in the end, the colour was an indicator of, well, nothing in particular. A very enjoyable bottle!

1997 Yvon Clerget, Meursault Chevalières
Quite a deep golden colour. The nose has a faint nutty sweetness, a little crystallised lemon too. Quite fresh and direct with a typical Chevalières minerality that also remains the dominant note in the finish. There’s almost a sorbet-like aspect to this wine – lemon, like the nose with good intensity too – and I have to say that I’m enjoying it very much.
Rebuy – Yes

2009 dufouleur frères nuits st.georges…

By billn on September 02, 2012 #degustation

2009 Dufouleur Frères, Nuits St.Georges
Medium-plus colour. The nose is deep with a little roast dark cherry. In the mouth there is texture, concentration and a dark, tasty intensity – particularly in the mid-palate – this is rather good! The dark flavours hang around really well, just accented with a little tannic bitterness. That tannin has a little grain if you search long enough and I suppose some of the dark flavour elements may have barrels at their base, but this is wine that seems to talk about – wine. Good stuff!
Rebuy – Yes

a chambolle repast…

By billn on August 31, 2012 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!#degustation

Sometimes things all come together – or perhaps, better said, all at once. I could have split this over three separate posts but why(…?)

I’ve just loved the working my way through the first edition of ‘wine magazine’ Repast. I usually have a long line of ‘worthy’ books to work my way through, but rarely do I just sit their chuckling-away, having to read out passages to all and sundry – but this is just such a publication. Written by Jeremy Holmes, an Australian wine importer, together with his wife and photographer Heidi. Just over 160 pages are filled for your entertainment, not just with words but images of mouth-watering dishes. Actually you could knock-off the whole thing in a couple of hours – but it will be worth it. I found the discussion and selection of restaurants to be the most interesting part – more addresses for a rainy day in Burgundy!

To be honest, it’s uplifting writing such as this that makes me even question why I bother – pertinent as my Summer issue remains largely in note-form at the moment!

An amuse bouche for you:

“We powered through some sightseeing and hit Mon Vieil Ami for our midday booking. I could wank on about how this restaurant is like an old friend. But I won’t, because an old friend wouldn’t leave us standing outside in the cold for 15 minutes after our agreed time of commencement of our luncheon. Nor would a good friend be a little slack in attention to water or cutlery requirements. But this is ‘lagged Jeremy’ being a picky prick. The service, when evident, was very warm and friendly.”

I read much of the above whilst sipping a Chambolle or two…

2005 Remoissenet, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Deep colour. The nose has depth, plenty of herbs and just a hint of green foliage – it’s not a classically floral and elegant Chambolle, but it is reasonably engaging. In the mouth this is both concentrated and offers a super acid-led intensity. The greeny herbal aromatics also have a role in the flavours, the tannins are there, but remain submerged. I doubt you’d pick this blind as a Chambolle – there’s a certain masculinity to it – but in terms of the concentration and intensity, a 2005 masculinity – it’s not about chunky structure, this is well-enough balanced. Interesting and, I suppose, showing not so bad versus many from the vintage – I’ll be interested to see where it ends up…
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Hudelot-Noellat, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
After the 2005 this seems wan, weedy and disappointing. The nose is certainly less challenging than the 05 – faintly sweet with creamy vanilla inflected red berries – but just a little confected, perhaps. The palate also seems more about make-up than a depth of Chambolle-ness – despite a decent intensity there seems little concentration to back it up – vacuous would just about define my first 10 minutes with this wine. Recalibrate (forget 2005s), wait 30 minutes and start again. Faintly powdery red fruit with a subtle, creamy undertow. Sweet, slowly insinuating flavour, with a little strawberry that’s borne on a lovely acidity. Long and but understated flavours. Pretty and easy to drink – still short of a little substance.
Rebuy – Maybe

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