I already know what you’re going to say:

“My, my Bill, that’s rather darkly coloured, isn’t it!(?)”

And I suppose that would have been expected of twenty year-old white Rully, even before the current oxidative paradigm – yet, there is no oxidation here – the chromophores (or auxochromes) responsible for this colour have nothing to do with the aromas and tastes of Jerez.

1991 H et P Jacqueson, Rully 1er Grésigny
Medium, medium-plus golden-yellow. The nose shows some toasted bread and a faintly caramelised lemon. In the mouth there is an impressive intensity of flavour – starting narrow but forging wider and wider. The acidity is rather understated – like an average 2006 – but it comes more to the fore in the mid-palate, emphasising the cooked lemon of the nose and further padding it out with butterscotch. Yes the finish seems a hint astringent – mouth-puckering without the texture of astringent tannin. Very interesting and eminently drinkable – though probably more from the standpoint of curiosity. I expect that I’d have enjoyed it much more in 1994!
Rebuy – No Chance

It’s been a while since I opened a 2006, and given that I thought Nuits/Vosne to be the very epicentre of 2006 quality – where better to start(?)

2006 Alain Hudelot-Noellat, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Murgers
Medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and dark-shaded with almost black cherry notes to the fore – let the glass drain and there are beguiling red fruit notes too. Despite being at an ‘awkward’ age, there is still some padding to the texture, and the high-toned dark fruit has a real underpinning of tannin and acidity – currently they have a fine balance, despite the tannin’s texture being just-about the wrong side of velvet – but it’s a lovely package, really lovely. Surprisingly open and giving right now; more masculine than feminine but with character and flavour – in spades. Just a very lovely bottle. I may have to revisit the price, perhaps it is worth adding a few more to the cellar.
Rebuy – Yes (note, there’s a difference between a ‘passive’ and an ‘active ‘rebuy’…)

2010 Louis Chenu Père et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Clous
Barely medium colour. The nose is lovely: lot’s and lots of red berries, shaded to raspberry, but with an undertow of something faintly earthy and mneral. Surprising intensity here (after the colour – such is Burgundy!) – there is so much flavour here, strawberry/ raspberry fruit (again) underpinned with that earthy mineral note that shows on the nose. Just a first class balance here: faintly padded texture and lots of flavour. At twice the price, this would be something of a bargain!
Rebuy – Yes

This Meursault had a very smelly cork indeed – had me thinking oxidised, but I won’t say ‘premature’!

1983 Jacques Prieur, Meursault Clos de Mazeray
The colour is certainly aged, but mercifully the aroma seems to have little to do with the cork. The aromas start a little murky, then there’s home-made lemonade(!), slowly but surely a decent red berry note comes into focus, underpinned by a leafy note that seemingly adds texture – this just gets better and better. Lithe, slightly lean in stature as the acidity has an element that isn’t completely ripe, but overall – no great problem. There’s decent enough concentration and an (overall) interesting glass of wine – the fruit seems to have just enough sweetness to make me want to go back again, and again…
Rebuy – No Chance

2007 Comtes Lafon, Monthélie 1er Les Duresses
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little burly but settles down, softening with time in the glass: fine red fruit and a Volnay-esque perfume – very nice indeed! Lithe, lovely acidity, slowly growing, fresh mid-palate flavours – you will hardly note any tannin – this is really on a much higher level than I had assumed. Lovely wine – for me this is always the ‘value’ (red) cuvée chez Lafon.
Rebuy – Yes

After the corked Jadot I had to quickly find a substitute…

2010 JC Boisset, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières
Only medium young colour. The nose surprises you after the modest colour – actually, it doesn’t so much surprise you as punch you in the face! Pungent, rather tarty, over-perfumed cherry fruit, and even the impression of a little alcoholic ‘burn’. In the mouth there’s quite a contrast: it’s rather composed, stylish and finely textured – there’s even a hint of minerality dovetailing with just-about perfect acidity, acidity that provides a lift to the high-toned fruit flavour of the mid-palate. The finish rolls modestly off the tongue but begs another sip. This wine is just a box of surprises! Given enough time, the nose is more composed and ‘traditional’. Hmm – only 5 more to go…
Rebuy – Yes