a chambolle repast…


Sometimes things all come together – or perhaps, better said, all at once. I could have split this over three separate posts but why(…?)

I’ve just loved the working my way through the first edition of ‘wine magazine’ Repast. I usually have a long line of ‘worthy’ books to work my way through, but rarely do I just sit their chuckling-away, having to read out passages to all and sundry – but this is just such a publication. Written by Jeremy Holmes, an Australian wine importer, together with his wife and photographer Heidi. Just over 160 pages are filled for your entertainment, not just with words but images of mouth-watering dishes. Actually you could knock-off the whole thing in a couple of hours – but it will be worth it. I found the discussion and selection of restaurants to be the most interesting part – more addresses for a rainy day in Burgundy!

To be honest, it’s uplifting writing such as this that makes me even question why I bother – pertinent as my Summer issue remains largely in note-form at the moment!

An amuse bouche for you:

“We powered through some sightseeing and hit Mon Vieil Ami for our midday booking. I could wank on about how this restaurant is like an old friend. But I won’t, because an old friend wouldn’t leave us standing outside in the cold for 15 minutes after our agreed time of commencement of our luncheon. Nor would a good friend be a little slack in attention to water or cutlery requirements. But this is ‘lagged Jeremy’ being a picky prick. The service, when evident, was very warm and friendly.”

I read much of the above whilst sipping a Chambolle or two…

2005 Remoissenet, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Deep colour. The nose has depth, plenty of herbs and just a hint of green foliage – it’s not a classically floral and elegant Chambolle, but it is reasonably engaging. In the mouth this is both concentrated and offers a super acid-led intensity. The greeny herbal aromatics also have a role in the flavours, the tannins are there, but remain submerged. I doubt you’d pick this blind as a Chambolle – there’s a certain masculinity to it – but in terms of the concentration and intensity, a 2005 masculinity – it’s not about chunky structure, this is well-enough balanced. Interesting and, I suppose, showing not so bad versus many from the vintage – I’ll be interested to see where it ends up…
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Hudelot-Noellat, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
After the 2005 this seems wan, weedy and disappointing. The nose is certainly less challenging than the 05 – faintly sweet with creamy vanilla inflected red berries – but just a little confected, perhaps. The palate also seems more about make-up than a depth of Chambolle-ness – despite a decent intensity there seems little concentration to back it up – vacuous would just about define my first 10 minutes with this wine. Recalibrate (forget 2005s), wait 30 minutes and start again. Faintly powdery red fruit with a subtle, creamy undertow. Sweet, slowly insinuating flavour, with a little strawberry that’s borne on a lovely acidity. Long and but understated flavours. Pretty and easy to drink – still short of a little substance.
Rebuy – Maybe

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There are 2 responses to “a chambolle repast…”

  1. JT1st September 2012 at 3:08 amPermalinkReply

    Unfortunately no ebook version.

    • billn2nd September 2012 at 5:11 pmPermalinkReply

      Well JT, my copy was delivered from Oz in only 5 or 6 days – I like the physical, rather than the electronic anyway 😉

  2. bmcq2nd September 2012 at 4:56 pmPermalinkReply

    What timing: we sipped a ’96 Hudelot-Noellat Chambolle last night with a duck, arugula, butter lettiuce and nasturtium salad.
    I love that wine; laser strawberry drifting to cranberry soft acid fruit and a core of iron flint and lingering grapeskin.tannins Another essence I couldn’t name (violet/lavender?) but characteristic of that wine. Balanced

    Maybe the 09 has gone quiet?

    • billn2nd September 2012 at 5:07 pmPermalinkReply

      I was pretty disappointed with this one, I must say – the Dufouleur Nuits the following night was more impressive – I didn’t have the luxury of a direct comparison though. The 06 H-N Nuits of a week or two ago was much more impressive also…

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