in case you missed it

this week’s icymi…

By billn on July 04, 2018 #in case you missed it#other sites#the market

I’ve been saving a few up for you – here’s about 2 week’s worth:

  • Jefford on Monday: The Chablis difference
    Short but punchy. An unusual presentational approach to Chablis – I would say reasonably successful too – well-done Andrew. There’s been a sad (relative) absence of Burgundy content in Decanter since Tim Atkin was made ‘Burgundy critic’ and contributing editor – for instance their very late copy on the Jayer auction (not from Tim) that sounded just like a re-hash of the PR that was mailed afterwards by the auction house. Tim is filling the hole left after William Kelly’s short tenure – though William was still there for longer than me 🙂 – hopefully we will see more from this platform soon.
  • One in ten vines are diseased:’
    (In French) A short piece that emphasises the issues affecting the cultivation of vines – globally too. 2016 was particularly bad in Burgundy due to the incredibly difficult first half of the growing season – much higher mortality was seen – particularly from ESCA – some areas peaking at 10% losses. The calmer growing season of 2017 and 2018 (so far) has seen lower mortality – at least from casual observation…
  • Double Robots – you were warned!
    (In French) Two reports looking at the future of vineyard management. One with a general purpose rechargeable robot – the Bakus – and another design for doing the weeding. I think a machine with more relevance to Burgundy’s small plots would probably have to be smaller, and it will be a while before there are Tesla-style charging points at the entrance to vineyards – they are the future – but then so, maybe, will be tractor hacking!
  • Beaujolais to be part of a united ‘Great Burgundy?’
    An interesting piece from Harpers. I have no doubt that, within a certain time horizon, this will happen – but today is too early. I discussed with an insider and they had an interesting observation; “Our experience concerning marriages between different regions is that tie-ups between two partners don’t work if one partner is dominant.” Let me put more meat on that bone for you; a marriage of equals works best. Burgundy is at a peak in their commercial cycle – prices at never seen before levels, mainly driven by demand-supply imbalances despite great quality. It’s also true that Beaujolais is the most dynamic of regions right now, but coming from a deep low in their economic cycle – and they have much more work to do. Effectively, a ‘marriage’ such of this is going to need a little more time for equality – a success-factor that’s been noted by both parties.
  • Alternatives to Burgundy, from Burgundy:
    The Los Angeles Times with that perennial opportunity to talk about relative values in Burgundy. There’s much (deserved) emphasis on the aligotĂ© grape and (less deserved) on Passetoutgrains – there are super examples of the latter, but usually in very small quantities – at least from great producers like d’Angerville – and yes, that was a tip 🙂
  • Burgundian Graphic Novels?
    I include this one, purely for the nice portrait of Emmanuel Guillot – I still regret not having my camera to hand when we were discussing in his kitchen, and he was drinking tea from his Star Wars mug!

icymi…

By billn on March 04, 2018 #in case you missed it

  • The weather of last week – i.e. the -12°C – was seemingly insufficient the freeze the opened bottles of wine that stood outside my kitchen window. Still, that was one chilly drop of wine…
  • Talking of the weather – my long-weekend visit to the CĂŽtes was called off – more due to ice rain than the snow – so despite the all-round prowess of the scooby, it was to be a weekend at home, rescheduling some domaine visits.
  • Typing my visit to Franck Large of Domaine du Breuil in Salles-Arbuissonnas-en-Beaujolais. Franck noted that from 2017 he can include the name of his village on his Beaujolais Villages label. I told him that the name of his village isn’t easy for an English speaker to say – Franck joked ‘It’s not easy for the French either!
  • It was a short-term laugh, but following Google’s update to it’s search engine ‘to make it harder for people to buy guns(?)’ we also lost for a while the ability to buy bur-gun-dy. They fixed it in a couple of days, but it took longer still to recover the back-catalogue of the Sex Pistols!
  • Light afternoon reading… silver-tongues-ray-walker-hong-kong-and-the-rules-of-the-game/

icymi – erwan’s changes, ‘remarkable’ & hopefully no white elephants

By billn on January 25, 2018 #in case you missed it

Three things have caught my eye in the last days:

  1. My father favours wines that are big, tannic and my direction is the opposite– Erwan Faiveley
  2. Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of Domaine de la RomanĂ©e-Conti has said the 2015 vintage ranks as perhaps the most remarkable of his half a century long career” which makes an interesting counterpoint to some of his words when I tasted at the domaine in December 2016. But ‘remarkable’ is not automatically the same as ‘great’ – eh? – link
  3. Finally: In association with the work for ‘Climats / UNESCO World Heritage’ there is finally news that the signatures are in place for the project to build “CitĂ© des Vins dedicated to the region’s wines and Climats.” The local representatives look happy in the picture above, courtesy the BIVB. The plan is to build close to the centre of Beaune, the CitĂ© to be constructed near the Palais des CongrĂšs, part of a 10-hectare complex including a five-star hotel, two restaurants, a shopping mall and reception centre. The plan is “to create the entertaining, educational, and cultural structures this project represents.
    The plan is that this should be opening to the public in early 2021 and represents an investment of €16.6 million coming from Chablis, Mñcon and roughly two-thirds of the cash from Beaune. I honestly see this project, at a time of unsustainable wine pricing, having the potential to be a huge, not to mention expensive, white elephant. But I will be very, very happy to be proved an old pessimist 🙂

ICYMI* – a few of my favourite things from 2017 – including the general

By billn on January 04, 2018 #annual laurels#in case you missed it

*In Case You Missed it…

My favourite short sketch: The General…
[winemaker 1]You know, we have have a pet-name for winemaker 2, we call him the General…
[me]And why do you call him the General?
[winemaker 1]Because he puts all the medals he wins on the labels of his bottles…
[winemaker 2]Not all of my medals (winks!)

My favourite quotes:

“And it’s even cheaper in the southern Beaujolais, where granite gives way to golden limestone. The Burgundians are there, too, less because of gamay than to plant pinot noir and chardonnay. Also because the wines can be labeled “Bourgogne” or “Coteaux Bourguignons,” which is to say that the south Beaujolais stands to become for vineyard-starved Burgundy what Entre-Deux-Mers became for Bordeaux: a factory for cheap knockoffs.”
Jon Bonné, here.

“It tasted, or so I imagined, like a muddy truffle that had been dug up moments earlier by a specially trained pig.”
Anne Fadiman on Haut-Brion – here.

My most memorable wines of 2017 – the magnificent 7:
2015 Paul Janin, Moulin Ă  Vent Les Greneriers
1999 Leroy, Savigny 1er Les Narbantons
1997 Lamarche, La Grande Rue
1997 Nicolas Potel, Echézeaux
2016 PYCM, Corton-Charlemagne
1996 Roulot, Meursault Les Luchets
1995 Pinson, Chablis 1er Montmains


Best Beaujolais Bike-Ride
Link

Burgundy Report

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