in case you missed it

Burgundy vs the INAO

By billn on January 29, 2020 #in case you missed it#warning - opinion!

Click above for the current response from Beaune

The interwebs in the last days have been full of images (below) against a major proposed change by the INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité) and I had many conversations with winegrowers in Chablis about it last week too. This is only a tiny example, but I tasted a number of Bourgogne Côte d’Auxerre, Tonnerre and Epineuil last week – the warmer vintages really having given these wines an impressive lease of life – yet here we are with a proposal that will revert them to – well, what exactly?

Their current designations are of regional wines (i.e. Bourgognes) with geographical precisions – there are 14 of these geographical Bourgognes1 including the new Bourgogne Côte d’Or label – so how many may be junked?

So much for loyal and constant use… This will run and run!

But what the INAO taketh with one hand they giveth with the other – the proposals would allow swathes of Beaujolais to be classed as ‘Bourgogne’ – clearly taking the pith here as gamay is not Bourgogne, only Côteaux Bourgogne… 😉

1The 14 ‘Geographical Bourgognes’ are: Bourgogne Chitry, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Bourgogne Côtes du Couchois, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, Bourgogne Côte Saint Jacques, Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse, Bourgogne Épineuil, Bourgogne Hautes Côte de Beaune, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Bourgogne La Chapelle Notre Dame, Bourgogne Le Chapitre, Bourgogne Montre-cul (or Montrecul or En Montre-Cul) and Bourgogne Tonnerre.

icymi: a good, and growing, wine-science library…

By billn on May 17, 2019 #a bit of science#in case you missed it

The sulfur chemistry article is new – yesterday. I’m finding this a good resourse of well-presented, relatively accessible, wine science articles:

icymi – new in the côte dijonnaise

By billn on January 29, 2019 #in case you missed it

Côte Dijonnaise – click the link for more info.

Anyone who frequents Beaune will likely know the name of Aegerter for their wine-shop, but they also have a domaine and maison based in Nuits St.Georges; here they annually vinify more than 50 hectares worth of grapes from a diverse selection of terroirs in the Côtes de Nuits, the Côte de Beaune, Chablis and the Mâconnais.

Domaine Aegerter are, it seems, hoping to resurrect the old Côte Dijonnaise climat of Rente de Giron, where they have acquired two hectares of vines that they have planted with chardonnay. The first vintage will be available following the 2022 harvest.

Aegerter, are part of a band of vignerons who are hoping to establish a new AOP – the AOP Côtes de Dijon – or maybe that should be ‘re-establish’ – good luck to them!

icymi – week 47 2018…

By billn on November 24, 2018 #in case you missed it

Just a couple this week:

  • 2017_Burgundies_could_ease_sky-high_prices_ahead_of_Brexit
    Distilling a vintage into a few words is never easy – this is not so bad…
  • the-paradox-of-burgundy
    Oxidisation – a new word for me – but ‘banal: weary, stale, flat and unprofitable’ – well we’ve all been there, eh? This article is also the first time I even considered that Nathalie Tollot might be the ‘Florence Nightingale of vigneronnes’ – you have been warned…

icymi – week 44-45 2018…

By billn on November 14, 2018 #in case you missed it

A few articles of reasonable to great worth that I’ve assembled over the last week or two:

icymi – week 43 2018…

By billn on October 25, 2018 #in case you missed it

From a week where the first clouds are appearing (literally, not metaphorically) in Burgundy since, for like, weeks! Above, Chassagne village yesterday afternoon…

icymi – week 41 2018

By billn on October 11, 2018 #in case you missed it

Looking over Volnay Caillerets today…

I’ve been collecting and saving these up over the last couple of weeks – I’ve lost a few too – I’ll take more care next time!

  • examining-the-science-of-wineglass-shapes
    Of-course Jancis gets a star billing – I think I already have too many glasses to research further – I don’t break them often enough – that’s my main problem!
  • montrose-owners-buy-into-burgundian-estate
    One has to hope that the new (part) owners will get direct input into the running of the estate – it’s a property with massive potential – despite the good intentions of the sons, the father is seemingly (to me) still quite dominant and seems set in his ways – let’s see!
  • the-science-behind-decanting-wine
    An oldie but a goodie. I wouldn’t dream of decanting old wines – though sometimes make an exception for a reductive 30 year-old white – yes, that used to be a thing! But young wines of both colours, often bottled with too much CO2 gas, plus sometimes a reduction will benefit no end…
  • tastevinage-102e-edition
    The winning wines from the last Tastevinage blind tasting – I should have been there but had guests, so…
  • chablis-the-purest-chardonnay
    A simple abc of Chablis…
  • montys-2018-organic-biodynamic-audit
    I like this piece very much – another level vs the linked article on Chablis as there is detail, there are statistics and there is much to mull over – excellent!
  • The effect of root exudates on rhizosphere water dynamics
    Actually, far more interesting than it looks at first glance – It’s not every day you get to reference Jethro Tull!(1)
  • foulee-des-vendanges
    I’m considering it – because it seems I have to drink Bouzeron rather than take on the Beaune Half-Marathon!
  • global-warming-has-moved-burgundys-top-sites-uphill
    Well, one assumes that there has to be some effect – notably in the earlier ripening vintages, Hautes Côtes and other higher vines do very, very well – I’m still waiting for Romanée St.Vivant to best Romanée-Conti though – I think it may be a long wait for that one…

I note that this week the Henri Boillot 2017s offer has once-more winged into my inbox – almost one month after its first circulation. At first it looks the same – but then it’s interesting to note that the most expensive stuff is now all gone; no more Chevalier-Montrachet, Montrachet or Chambertin – the others are hanging on. From some very limited perspectives – the market remains strong – shame that’s only 0.1% of production…

1 Tull J. 1762 Horse-hoeing husbandry: or, an essay on the principles of vegetation and tillage. London, UK: printed for A. Millar.
Google Scholar

well ray, am I racist?

By billn on September 15, 2018 #in case you missed it

Dear Ray,
I like that you engaged with me on the wordpress site – because it’s permanent – so 24-48 hours later you can’t delete everything, as has been your penchant on twitter or facebook for the last couple of years. I think the average ‘wordpress-smith’ couldn’t care less, but other audiences maybe more-so…

Your narrative seems to have evolved to the extent that everyone who criticises you, or your (previous) actions is a racist. So… I ask myself, and you:

  • Was I racist when I gave my site to you (your fledgling business) as a platform? (e.g. here*)
    *You can find all Ray’s posts here.
  • Or was I racist when I wrote a short, and positive, profile of your domaine and your wines following my first visit to taste, here?
  • Or was I racist when I sent you, before publication, my article on the end of Maison Ilan? In which your interview comments are quoted in full – to which you never responded until, obliquely, now, 23 months later, that it was slanderous and racist…
  • Or was I just a racist when I pointed to the long list of people who had parted with money but didn’t get the wine they ordered – by the way, in most countries that’s classed as fraud – or the long list of creditors, or the lack of rent payments, or the seizing of your wines, or the ensuing court case that you lost? – Is that when I became racist?

I will still refrain from name calling, or the discussion of any future ventures that you may be involved in, because maybe you have learned lessons(?) You can certainly take up your “that you incorrectly cited as not having a business rental agreement with Maison Ilan” with the Gouges family. It’s a quote from them – if they tell me different, I will change it.

You are right that, as described by you, Casey comes across as dealing with you in a highly unethical manner, I can’t comment of the legality of his actions. But your (very many) creditors will likely only see a small shark being eaten by a larger shark. That the larger shark got indigestion and came out of the process, seemingly, with nothing, probably only means that (with hindsight) like all your other creditors, Casey probably regrets having become involved with you during this period. Please, though, don’t blame Casey for customers never getting 2011s and 2012s (I won’t criticise you over delaying the 2010 Corbeaux) – after-all, his mythical million came in 2015 – your 2011 and 2012 customers should have had those wines delivered long before…

Burgundy Report

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