Tasted with Aline Ries, 19 October 2020.
Aline on 2019 & 2018:
“Half a harvest – a big frost 05 April so we used a lot of candles – but despite that, together with the summer dryness we managed only 25 hl/ha – a small half harvest. But great quality, we harvested relatively early to keep the acidity to balance the concentration – I don’t think the wines too hot.
2019 wasn’t a vigneron’s vintage but 2018 is a vintage for the vigneron; there’s acidity and there’s volume – it was good! The 2018s were bottled in July 2019 and it’s the commercial vintage right now:”
It’s not often that I’m shown this excellent aligoté, but the Verzés were next level – both potentially great wines…
All the wines cork-sealed.
2018 Bourgogne Aligoté
A lovely freshness here – some fine citrus – ‘I’m sure the BD is helping in these sunny vintages.’ Wide, energetic, palate-saturating but with some joy – that’s faintly saline, much less faintly citrus and it’s a joy to drink.
Bottom of the hill’
A bigger, deeper nose – that’s a great invitation. Fresher, more energetic, a little less sweet – but that’s no bad thing – slowly melting flavour over the tongue. Long-lasting, you – wait another year, perhaps two – but this minerality will become ever-more friendly.
Middle of the hill – this fermented over 8 months.
A big bright nose, faintly mineral and a lovely fresh. Bigger again in the mouth, more energetic if that were possible – a faint suggestion of barrel – but faint – you won’t have to wait long for that to fade. Excellent wine – perhaps great Verzé
Older vines – 80 years
A vibrant nose of modest but attractive minerality. The most mineral of all, but without overt rigour. Wide and long – actually the last wine is the one to drink right now – give this the 5 years that it deserves, it could be great!