Tasted with Peter Gierszewski, 19 October 2020
Peter on 2019:
“No frost in 2019 though there was a little in 2019. It was half a harvest for us though – we have vines on altitude, on stony ground too, so the dryness took a lot from us, but with 13-14°, richness and lovely acidity, they look very interesting”
Always wines of character from Peter, none more-so than his Plutonic – a wine, literally, of interesting roots and a certain something extra. Love that wine!
All elevage without added sulfur – but there’s an addition before the bottling:
2019 Mâcon-Bray Atout Vent (Blanc)
Not the easiest place to work for a vigneron but the wind keeps the vines aerated and we never see mildew here! Relatively young vines on a red soil here. All tank elevage.
An open nose – deep, wide some low sulfur style to this. Big in the mouth too – nice texture, a little rigour to the structure. Layered low-sulfur fruit style. The finish is an impressive one!
2019 Mâcon-Bray Les Pierres Levées (Blanc)
Vines over 50 years old. Here with demi-muid elevage, bottled in July like the last wine.
The same style of nose to the last but with a more overt freshness. Bigger in the mouth, a finer style despite much energy – I prefer the extra clarity of fruit here. Wide, slowly finishing – easily my favourite of these two…
Half Syrah and Gamay, old massale selections of both on granitic soil. Usually harvested at the same time, the syrah destemmed, the gamay not. This year it was partly frosted which changed the ripening so the gamay was harvested 14 days before – elevage still as a blend.
Hmm – I like this nose, faintly peppery above, smoothly textured below. Bright attack, a little tannin – this is structural but not hard. The complexity is very fine here – as is the finish – a delicious and complex red. Bravo!
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Balancin
About 30-yo vines, whole clusters. To be bottled in a week – it’s waiting in tank.
A fine perfume of whole clusters. A little structure here, a faintly drying tannin but no grain – wait 18 months to 2 years but this has super balance and energy. Lots of finishing material too. Yum!
2019 Macon-Bray Les Pierres Levées (Rouge)
60-year-old gamay, this with a south-facing aspect – vs the west of the chardonnay. This with demi-muids elevage.
Hmm – now that’s a finely perfumed nose – faintly floral. Presence in the mouth – an energetic complexity too. A depth of delicious finishing flavour. That’s excellent and long too.