Tasted with Emmanuel Guillot-Broux, 19 October 2020
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More reports for Domaine Guillot-Broux
Emmanuel on 2018:
“I prefer to stay on the 2018s – some 19s are not yet bottled. Actually, the market has helped us to move to longer elevage which was what we always hoped to do. In terms of the vintage there were several things; a sunny year, two different maturities as one zone has more rain – 6 ha had over 80% hail though – the entry wines particularly, Perrières, Beaumonts not touched, but still plenty of damage. But we also started with a négoce Pouilly and there will be 3 wines in 2019. The first week of harvesting was fine, in the second week the sugars grew massively to 14° so we chose to declassify as Côteaux Bourguignon. Fermentations were fragile, worries about volatiles during fermentation too, some needed racking, others not. I’m sure we gained a lot in finesse using whole clusters in a vintage like 2018, the wines are not too massive.”
Always a high standard to the wines here. I note that the wines I thought ‘great’ at this address last year, I ‘only’ thought to be ‘excellent’ this year. Oh well, I suppose I will just have to drink excellent wine at home then!
2018 Maison Guillot-Broux Mâcon-Villages
Three partners, they work well, but the harvest and vinification is done by the home team. Half barrel the rest tank. This will be certified organic from 2021, one part already is.
A little smoky reduction on the nose. Round, nicely energetic flavour, a little reductive in the flavour too today, with a certain sweetness. Nicely intense finish.
2018 Mâcon-Cruzille Les Genèvrières
A deep and attractive nose, despite the overt oak aroma. More texture almost a grain of tannin, silky, growing in intensity. I love that texture and the finish. The oak is much less visible on the palate – wait 18 months, perhaps 2 years for this. It’s at least excellent.
2018 Mâcon-Cruzille Les Molières
A cross of chardonnay and muscat – muscaté from 1936 – a tiny 4 barrel cuvée
A wider, silkier nose, not overtly muscaté here, more perfumed – lovely. Nicely fresh, mouth-watering with intensity. Saline framed. That’s a lot of fun – extra excellent!!!
A mineral width of aroma that’s still infused with some barrel vanilla. More direct, certainly more mineral in the mouth, the oak softening the wine a little. The width of finishing flavour is really irresistible here – bravo!
2018 Maison Pouilly-Fuissé Les Plessys
A more compact nose. Extra mineral in the mouth once more. More dimensions of flavour here, but not better dimensions! Almost a little pepper in the finishing flavours.
2018 Mâcon-Cruzille Les Perrières
A softer nose, due to the oak, but there’s much depth here. Wide, intense, plenty of concentration here in the mouth – a little smoky edge to the flavours too – interesting. The barrels are the same for all of these – “It’s the stone in the ground that really makes the difference.”
2018 Maison, Côteaux Bourguignon
50% gamay and pinot. Plenty of whole clusters but not all.
A more overt gamay than pinot aromatic – fresh and inviting. Extra fresh on the palate. Crunchy fruit. Tasty wine – what more to say? Delicious!
2018 Mâcon-Cruzille Beaumont
Less overt colour. The nose bright, faintly pyrazine floral style. More mouth-filling and energetic. Here is much flavour complexity, plenty of minerality and a little more tannin too. I like. Give this 2-plus years to soften. Excellent…
2018 Bourgogne Les Genèvrières
Pinot with 80% wc
Paler colour again. The nose has sweet width, slowly growing behind is the whole cluster perfume. Bright, fresh, a little depth to the texture though far from rich despite plenty of concentration. This is for keeping – at least 3 years I’d say – but there is much to look forward to in the medium term.
2018 Bourgogne La Myotte
Here a blend of wc and oak aspects in the nose. Wide, then mouth-filling. There’s tannin but hardly any grain. A sweetness of fruit with over-ripe characteristics. This will be even better than the Genevrières – the balance is even better.