Tasted with Anthony Saumaize, 19 October 2020.
Anthony on 2019:
“For us, 2019 was quite complicated. We suffered a lot from the dryness in terms of the eventual harvest volume, the grapes with lots of maturity. Fortunately, we were not quite frosted – but nearly!”
It’s genuinely difficult to pick winners and losers in my selection of domains in this report – so many great wines – as here. And as a minimum, excellent quality and drinkability.
2019 Mâcon-Vergisson Sur la Roche
All barrel elevage but no new barrels. Vines of 30-years-old.
A little golden style to the fruit aromas. Hmm, that’s such a silky, concentrated palate. Layered, and completely delicious. Ample but at the same time gorgeous. Excellent!
2019 St.Véran Le Vieille Vigne de Crêche
Vines from early 50s near the lycée of Davayé. All barrel elevage and again with no new barrels in 2019.
A little more complexity to this nose – the depth is impressive. Good volume in the mouth, concentrated – it takes a little time to unfurl but the balance is pretty good here so it will be fine, and I love the finish.
A plateau of limestone, in the domaine since 2016 with a conventional culture before, 85-year-old south-facing vines that are being ‘brought back to life.’
A compact nose, suggesting some freshness. Really a wine of the limestone, wide, detailed a touch of tannin, insistent with overt intensity. Unfortunately for us (and the domaine!) less than 20 hl/ha was their result, but this is a great St.Véran though.
2019 Pouilly-Fuissé Sur la Roche
400m high so not a 1er. In virtually the same area as the Mâcon, it’s just the direction to the sun is different here.
A compact nose but with a little vibration of interest here. Mouth-filling but not with density – a more ethereal style to the shape and flavours here. Eventually a sparklingly interesting finish – I slightly prefer the finish of the last but the first part of this is excellent and there’s such finesse too.
Plain-south facing here.
A little more open nose – some width and concentration of aroma in the middle. Direct, good freshness, mouth-watering with intensity but nothing harsh – the best combination of all these wines – the most complete today – though I still slightly prefer the finish of the SV today – but this is great wine in the making.